Hot Rods Tilt Front End-Slide or Dual Pivot Hinge

I want to build a tilt front end, but it needs to move forward before it tilts. Two options are to make it slide forward and tilt or build a dual pivot point hinge. Examples of what I'm considering are:
(I took the following pics off the HAMB, thank you to the owners)

Slide - For the slide I'm considering tube in a tube. I've got 2" and 1.5" square tube .25" wall thickness. When you remove the weld in the 2" they fit together well. Don't know how it'd be when a little rain and dirt gets between them. I'll probably only drive it once a week and only in good weather, but its a consideration.




Dual Pivot Hinge - It'll look something like this. The "link" attached to the frame would allow the front end to move forward first before it tilts. The front will move in a small arc as it move forward, so I'd have to plan for that.



I think either choice will require a couple of small wheels on the back of the hood and small tracks mounted to the firewall to guide the front end before it tilts.

 

For the tube in tube, you might want to consider making the inner tube smaller than it needs to be, and adding rollers to it. So it won't be so likely to bind.

I considered a tilt front for my Chevy II, and decided that there were lots of reasons not to go there. Weight and ease of service were the main ones. I'm glad I didn't go tilt.

 

Option 3 so fender doesn't whack you in the head and no need for option 1 and 2.

 

Another option so you don’t have to worry about debris .

 

Jim - Added weight I agree with, tell me your thoughts for ease of service. When you've gotta pull the engine a tilt front would be in the way. But you could make it removable with a couple pins/bolts & a harness disconnect. It would be really trick to have a dolly like the vette hardtop dolly below. For as often as I plan on pulling the engine I'd probably just set the front end on the lawn.

If it pivots far enough forward I thought it would be easier to service spark plugs, distributor, carb, timing, etc. You could sit on the front tire and work on adjusting the valves. See the picture at the bottom.

Johnny - I see what you're saying, but was wanting to avoid cutting the fender. I think if it moves forward and the pivot is low, it'll be out of the way, like the picture below.

 

I like it, thanks!

 

Most of the time, you just need to open the hood. When the hood becomes the hood, fenders, grill, etc it becomes a pain.

 

On my 55 glass front end I used 12" heavy duty drawer slides. Worked like a dream. No sticking or binding. Sorry, no pics.

 

Thanks I'll look into some slides, but being a steel front end it'll be a lot heavier.

 

I still like this idea..

Technical - My 55 Chevy fiberglass flip setup | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

I do too. Looks like a dual pivot set up.

 

Here is a picture I kept from a fellow Hamber from about a year ago. Don't recall his signature, but
he may see this and reply. Good luck. Bob

 

The drawer slides may allow enough forward movement to let the rear of the fender come up without scraping anything. Look at drawer slides from industrial cabinets or tool boxes and should be able to get some that are plenty strong and move easily. Check that your pivot point will allow the grill/bumper(?) to clear the ground and stand straight up or slightly forward to keep unwanted strain off the slides. I think the slides can be positioned so that as they extend out the frame can still provide support by having just a small gap. The slide would deflect down slightly when extended and the front tilted. The slight deflection would make it rest on the frame.


Or you could make it where the hood pivots forward and the fenders "plug in" from the side.

 

those tubes are way overkill. A correctly designed hinge does all you want. The pivot below the frame moves the fenders out of the way on the way up. How will you keep the bottoms of the fenders from flapping? A tilt front is Very nice. You can get to everything. No leaning over the fender. I love mine
To remove the front , pull the pins and use a sheet of cardboard or thin plywood so one person can slide it off and back on

 

No fenders but mine just slides forward. Industrial drawer slides about 3 feet long. I think they were rated at 300 lb. each. Just another thought.

 

Thanks Bob. I've also got pics from the same builder, would be interesting to see how it worked.

 

Thanks, will keep looking for some slides. Haven't found some I really like yet.

 

I'm thinking I'll like it also once it's built.

 

Do you have a part number?