Hot Rods Hub and drum separation

Got the lug bolts drilled out on my 1931 model a rear hubs , ( 5/8 hole saw made it a piece of cake ) thanks to who ever it was suggesting this . BUT how to you separate the hub from the drum ? I have applied a small amount of heat probably no where near enough to do anything , but their not even thinking about budging , any ideas that you know work ?

Vern

 

Vern: Look thru these U-Tube videos.
https://www.google.com/search?q=how...l4j0i390l2.16800j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I had already checked those out , thanks , but so far no luck

 

Pictures of the hub and drum you're working on might help.

 

Recall from my stint at local Jenny station...
Large diffuser tipped torch ,
Brake drum aglowing!
(Maybe dry-ice woulda helped on the axle!)

 

What exact drums are you working on. Real 31 Drums or ????

People assuming that you have what they have or what is shown in the video may not be thinking of exactly what you have. = Better and more complete info from the get go gets better answers quicker.

 

Drilling will often make more probs. = Hub is not releasted,outter lip of studs still in place an holding drum.
If drum will be trashed an replaced any way, use a tapperred reem to remove drum stud lip just enough,no deeper then drum plate. Drum should then fall off. But then you still need to get left over stud out of hub with out making hole bigger/or new stud will not press in anymore< Drilling for any over size stud will likely end up with bad wheel mount< now likely off center from misstakes of drill out being not dead center.
Drilling was not the way to go on this !

 

When I peeled some trashed '40 drums off the hubs recently (I wanted to save the hubs), I pressed the studs out with a short tube supporting the underneath of the hub. Sounds like the OP has used the hole saw to remove the swedge on his original studs. Great.

Then, after all my studs were removed I found the drum still had a tight fit on the snout of the hub. I set the drum in the press and used a block of wood to press down on the snout. It bent the drum inward for a half inch before the big pop. The drum was now ruined, but the hub was fine.

I don't think you could support the drum in a fashion to prevent it bending inward as you push the snout through. Maybe heating the drum right around the snout is the only way to open that hole enough to let the hub loose.

 

It is a 1931 original rear drum and hub , off the car , I have drilled and completely removed the studs with no distortion or damage of any kind to the hub or drum , it is just 90 years of being together that is the problem , I own a BIG hammer , a 12 ton press , acetylene torches , Oh I can get it apart alright , I just want to salvage the drum and the hub with no damage that's all , you never know when someone might want them .
Vern

 

That's what I'm trying to figure out how to support the drum so as not to collapse it when pressing out the hub

 

Outside of the usual hot wrench and pressure or lots of rust soaker I'd think it should come apart.
A piece of pipe with a just slightly larger ID than the hub that you could set the hub and drum on to use the press might help.

 

The stock A drums are tin, not cast, and they flex. I don't know how you are going to do it.

 

correct ^^^ and the tin will warp if you heat them. I really doubt anyone is ever going to want a used tin drum. have you measured them to say they are good?

 

If it is steel next to the hub not cast heat the drum red hot just next to the hub all the way around then let it cool. It will almost fall off.

 

I will give that a try
Vern

 

Got it , some heat and the press , And POP , no damage to either piece , thanks for all the advice .

 

This is a great book it will explain why heat works read about confined expansion https://www.engineerrefe.com/welding-secrets-second-edition-by-hal-wilson/https://www.engineerrefe.com/welding-secrets-second-edition-by-hal-wilson/