Need some help. I discovered I was making a really excellent controlled vacuum leak with the PVC set up I had. I remedied it by installing OEM parts, however I'm now hearing what sounds like pinging coming from the valves. I don't know if I'm just hearing things or if this is something to be concerned over. It sounds like it's coming from the covers on both banks of the motor. I haven't driven it this way under load yet, so I'm going to get some octane booster and see if it changes the driving characteristics. Here's a video: The initial timing is conservatively set at 10* BTDC, the tank is filled with 93 octane, factory 72cc Cobra Jet iron heads, 10.30cc dish pistons, 1.674 compression height my guess is I'm someplace around 10.3:1 CR. The cam is a Comp 270H - Valve Timing: 0.006 - Lobe separation (degrees): 110 - Intake Centerline (degrees): 106 - Valve Lash: Hydraulic - Duration: Intake 270/Exhaust 270 - Duration @ .050" Lift: Intake 224/Exhaust 224 - Valve Lift: Intake 0.519/Exhaust 0.519 - Lobe Lift: Intake 0.301/Exhaust 0.301
Back your timing down 2* initially to 8* and keep going down in 2*increments until it subsides. Then go back up 1* and see what it does. Reading the plugs between running will help determine when you are where the engine is happy.
The 62 thru 66 are my favorites,I have a couple of 63 unicabs. Nice build. Frank. If you ain’t CAV you aim’t Spit
Bought an analogue wideband O2 sensor for the Rust Tractor to match my existing gauges. Decided the best place to mount it was where the gaping hole in my dash already is. Instead of straightening out the butchered dash and welding a repair patch in I bought some 16ga steel from the hardware store to make a plate. I may eventually properly repair and paint the dash, but for now I'll just roll with this. After measuring and cutting I didn't like the look of the bare metal, so I decided to try turning it. Considering I did it with a hand drill it turned out pretty mediocre. A solid B+. I'll affix the plate to the dash using strong magnets, which saves me from drilling additional holes and butchering it further and easy to pull it on and off. I just have the one gauge for the wideband O2 for now, but will eventually add a switch for electric cut outs and possibly a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
With the kind of work you turned out with a hand held drill I would rate it a very solid A+. Imagine what you could do with the proper machine and that most would not even attempt what you did. Then to post the results for the whole world to see. If anyone does not like it tell them to shut up or show you what they did for a first attempt.
Got the wideband O2 sensor hooked up which confirmed what I could read from the plugs and smell, the motor's running pig rich at cruise and WOT. Ordered an assortment of jets for the 750 dp. Decided I liked the symmetry of having another gauge on the panel, so I ordered a matching vacuum gauge to help with dialing in the carb. I still feel like it needs some sort of trim around the edge. Maybe I'll bevel it more... Because I like to act like an immature child at times the mufflers I chose for my exhaust double as dumps, so at some point I plan on adding electric cut outs (probably Doug Thorley's) with which I'll add the switch in the center of the panel. I spoke with a Vintage Air dealer who mentioned that they're currently at a 9 week wait for AC systems. I was hoping to install a sure-fit system soon, so I'll have to give them a call directly and confirm the wait is that long. If it is, I'll just move ahead with my plan for a radio and install one over the winter. I was hoping since I'm so close to San Antonio I could go pick it up in person. EDIT: Slapped some cheap-o trim from the local parts store on the edge of it. Cut to fit. Looks decent. I'll call that done.
Pretty neat. The Dana 60 may be a good thing with that 428. Whatta ya mean rides like a truck? You have the twin I beams. Straight axel rides like a truck, but then it is one.
That is some conservative ignition timing for a SCJ. When I was racing mine using the old bump up 2 degrees until it detonates then backing off or a increase in ET I ended up with a total of 50 degrees all in including the vacuum side. Ran it as my daily and at the track for 10 years and never had any detonation problems. I was under the impression that all SCJs starting in 69 had the cast finned lemans type valve covers.
I know my total timing is all out of wack right now. The distributor is a MSD unit with wonky advance springs in it. I've ordered a new set of springs for it. I'm shooting for 38-40* total around 3k RPMS. Once I get them in I'll dial in the idle, transition, and WOT on the carb a little better. These are re-manufactured valve covers. The factory ones are long gone. Youuuuuve got a point there. lol
A quick update. I've been driving the truck about 4 or 5 days a week. I'm extremely pleased at how well it drives, it's a total blast. I've got the carb and timing pretty much dialed in at this point. I get out of here come this December, so I'm looking at hitting the 1/8 track a few times before I leave. This thing had some pretty bad wheel hop, so after experimenting with clamping the leaf springs and tire pressure I pulled the trigger on some Caltracs. They make a set for F100's, but not with a Dana 60, so had to do some grinding to get them to fit. They work pretty good, still getting some hop on the initial launch, so I'll mess around with tire pressure and preload a bit more. I put some cheap Monroe shocks on the rear, so I ordered some adjustable ones that should also help with planting the tires. Last weekend I put installed a head unit, wired up to the previous owner's 4-way Pioneer speakers along with a slim JBL 8 inch subwoofer/amp combo that fits under the seat. Pretty trick set up. I stashed the head unit under the seat. It's bluetooth/USB controlled, so everything still looks clean in the cab. The 8 inch sub is MORE than enough for this tiny, tinny cab lol. I'm glad I went with carpet and sound deadening or it would sound like I'm listening to music in a toilet bowl. Also, because I have the maturity of a 10 year old I ordered a set of Doug's electric cut outs. I measured them out and they should fit perfectly on the end of my Warlock cutout mufflers. I'll mount the switch up on the gauge panel I made. I was stoked to drive it down to the Lonestar Roundup, but bummed to hear it was cancelled again. It looks like the next big event I'll drive it to will be the fall Goodguys up at Texas Motor Speedway.
Congratulations @CBurne7 , its so cool to see this old farm truck get saved and some love given to it! I like everything that you have done to it !
Nice work and updates. Not trying to put a damper on this thread at all but I thought the YOM cut off was '65?
Update on the truck; Took it to the track! I picked up a set of M/T radial Bracket Pro slicks and mounted them on some 15x8 steelies. Only got 2 passes in before the battery hold down snapped and sent the battery flying upside down in the engine bay. I guess it hooks pretty good. lol. The plan was to go back last night for a Test N Tune, but driving it home from work yesterday I could tell the driver's wheel bearing was going out, so I'll be replacing them today. I didn't realize how much of an oddball axle this Dana 60.3 (60.2?) is. I had to cross reference a bunch of part numbers to get the right one. Even more weird is that Oreilly's will get it in today for pick up. I contemplated ordering stronger axles, but I'll do that if I ever destroy these. I added Doug's electric cut outs to the corny warlock mufflers by grinding down the little tab on the mufflers, so now I can flex on all my Army buddies who think their jacked up GMC's are hot stuff (lol why do I act like a 12 year old). With the slicks I also wanted to add a driveshaft loop so I modified one made for the early 2000's lightnings by cutting it down and flipping it. I don't have a welder here so I ended up sleeving the tubing and adding bolts to release it. Ugly, but pretty functional. I also added a heat shield to the Holley 750. The 428 fires up with just a touch when it's cool, but after driving it around in the Texas heat starting is a bit delayed. I haven't had an issue with vapor lock since I already have a phenolic spacer, but I noticed in the staging lanes at the track there was percolation happening. Maybe this will help, but honestly I think most of the issue is just the general under-hood radiant temperatures. It won't hurt. Lastly I've decided to sell my '63 Fairlane when I get home. I've wanted to build a gasser since I was in high school (don't roll your eyes that was before it was TRENDY) and when I purchased the '63 about 7 years ago intended for it to be a Super Stock-esc car, but I'm realizing it will never really what I want it to be. After some shrewd negotiating with the wife she gave me the green light to look for a 55-57 Thunderbird. I realized all the stuff I love about the early 60 Fairlanes started with the baby birds - the roofline, the itty-bitty tail fins, the oval grill opening. I'm going to pull the 4 speed toploader, 57 Ford wagon 9in rear, and wheels and tires to use on the thunderbird and sell the rest of the car with the 351w in it. I would like to learn how to do more sheetmetal fabrication work, so in order to jive with my Army Reserve/middle school band teacher budget I'm looking for a bird that needs some love (if you know what I'm saying) PM me if you have a lead on something, I'd like to open up some dialogue. My intention is for it to be more track oriented than street. I'd like to drag it out to nostalgic type races and actually be competitive. I'm excited now that I have a parts truck to haul stuff around.
Great projects. I like your approach and motivation. For the truck, see if you can get some epoxy primer tinted to match, any touch ups will kinda blend. It's fine as-is in Texas, but other climates won't be so friendly. One thought, if kids are in the mix or in the future that Fairlane is a good fit, everything else is a 2 1/2 seater, if you run bench seats. It's definitely manageable with one little one.
The Fairlane is really a neat car you should keep it for a Family car if you don’t have a daily driver.
Well I'll be honest, the first pass I didn't realize that the local Texas track ran 1/4 mile on Friday nights as all the times I've gone and watched it was only 1/8 mile. Ran a 9.2 in the 8th and I let off before the 1/4. It's obviously got alot more in it. That was "right off the trailer" AKA I drove it from my house there, went through tech, and staged. lol. The second run it hooked and broke the battery mount and flung the battery onto the engine, which ended the night for me. hahahahahaha I appreciate it. Although, I'm a man who's far from got it figured out.
Welp, someone let all the smoke out of my clutch and I couldn't figure out how to get it back in. I had a Centerforce dual friction diaphragm clutch in here and apparently it doesn't like the high RPMs, so it's toast now. Won't hold. After reading some stuff online I learned the difference between long style and diaphragm style. Apparently theses FE motors don't jive with the diaphragm style pressure plates and they'll slip at high RPM. Go figure. I ordered an 11in RAM Powergrip HD long style pressure plate, clutch, and TO bearing. I think it should work out pretty good. Once I pulled the clutch I could see the factory flywheel is 31 flavors of heat checked, so I'm replacing it with an externally balanced billet unit. The bell housing is not the correct CJ unit, so I picked up a vintage Lakewood scatter shield off ebay since I know this truck will be at the track more often. I know it isn't SFI certified, but I probably won't be faster than 12-whatever it is. I just want the peace of mind. ...but MAN what a piece of absolute garbage this scatter shield is. I had to clearance for the headers (kinda figured I wouldn't based off prior experience with a scatter shield) as well as the top of the housing itself. I should have just done this when the motor was out of the truck, but whatever. I've heard the quicktime housings are a little better, but still... HOLY SMOKES! LOL! I've never dial indicated a bell housing before, but figured I'd give it a go this time around. This guy is wayyyyy off. I spent money for some Robb MC Performance dowel pins which look super nice and a cheap chineseum dowel puller off Amazon.
WEEEEELP F100 update time. I am officially back in Maryland. Drove the ol Rust Tractor a good 1500+ miles with only a minor hiccup in Waco when an axle bearing blew out. Pisses me off because I just replaced the bearings, seals, etc. It was either a garbage bearing or the shop that I had press them on didn't press them in all the way, which I honestly think it was the latter. It's really my fault for not checking end play and how much of the race is riding on the bearing when installing them. Either way we were able to fix it on the side of the road. By the grace of God I pulled over in front of some random dude's house across from a gas station that just HAPPENED to be a car guy who owned a couple hotrods including BBC swapped B-body wagon. He came out of the house and saw us, offered to take us to a buddy's (guy's name was actually "Buddy") shop to get new bearings pressed on. You might recognize his '57 from No Prep Kings. Kevin and everyone at Buddy's shop was super helpful and ultimately we managed 5 more hours of driving that evening. They definitely saved the day. I'm really super stoked on how this thing drives. Fires up no problem every morning, albeit it doesn't have a choke, so I have to hang around until it will idle, but rides great, shifts great, has plenty of power. Even now that I'm home I've been making hardware store runs, using it to take care of jobs around the house, and hauling stuff back and forth from my tiny garage elsewhere in the city. Before leaving I replaced the bench seat with a reupholstered one I picked up in Dallas which is waaaaayyyy more comfortable than the worn out one that came in the truck. I'm thinking of running a return line with a regulator after the carb though. It seems to occasionally load up when idling for awhile. I thought it was the coil getting hot and going bad, but I just put a new one in. I can't find a kit that has a return line on the fuel sender for the in-cab tanks and I don't want to move the tank under the bed (don't like having the filler neck in the bed) and I don't want to move to an electric fuel pump when the mechanical does just fine. Moroso has a cool piece that splices into your filler neck that you run a line down to the bottom of the tank. Has anyone used this before? I figure I can run a hard line from the regulator under and buck up to the tank. Part # 65385 https://www.moroso.com/efi-fuel-return-line-kit65385/ I also am selling my '63 Fairlane to put towards finding a bigger garage space and to eventually build a 55-57 t-bird race car. The Fairlane is a super-stock styled car with Calvert Racing suspension, 351, 4 speed toploader, ford 9in with Dutchman axles, 3.89 mini-spool. If you're interested it's listed here on the HAMB.
Curious as to why I’m getting notifications my posts are being deleted stating “Cut off is 1965” when this body style began in 61?
Could be that your title states 1966 and some one is reporting your posts as being too new not knowing this body style goes back to 1961. Have you PM'd a Moderator?
The Jalopy Journal
