I’m young and learning about automotive repair. Purchased a 1963 c20 with a 283 and 3 speed. The trans and engine are leaking like crazy and I want to figure out what all gaskets I need so I only have to take everything apart once. I’m okay with buying and installing gaskets that were not the issue(greater overall chance for me to learn). I think a major contributor is the oil pan gasket and the front timing cover gasket. What gaskets should I replace on the trans? I already got the one that interfaces with the slip yolk of the drive shaft. Is there anything I can do about the leaky drain plugs other than Teflon tape? Any and all words of wisdom are welcome. Regarding this or anything else. Thank you in advance!
Welcome. Degrease the engine first, easier to pinpoint where the leaks originate. They make a traceable dye (used in conjunction with the appropriate light gun) to be added to the engine oil, which is what a shop would do. An older engine already with a number of leaks would benefit by pulling and replacing all gaskets, also since you stated you were up for a learning experience. As for the drain plug, they do make oversize drain plugs up to triple oversize.
Like 40FORDPU said, degrease EVERYTHING and then look for leak's. Oil has a funny way of getting everywhere and making thing's look worse than they really are. After it's thoroughly cleaned, when looking for leak's, start at the highest point, and work your way down until you find the problem. Work top to bottom and front to back.
most likely a rear main seal is a big oil leak contributor . indyjps hit it on the head , a full gasket set would be the way to go.
The trans has only 3 gaskets and one seal.Side plate, tailhousing, the input drive collar and a seal for the drive shaft yoke at the tail. There is no seal on the inside of the collar. It has a reverse thread section which “screws” the trans oil back to the bearing so don’t look for one. Others will tell you on the engine.
I don’t disagree with anything above. But how does it run? Done a compression test yet? If it’s “yes” and all is ok, go for it. Some things, like a rear main in the truck, aren’t simple. As a y block guy since 1967, I know way more about a “sneaky Pete” than I wanted to. Don’t let me discourage you. My first car was a 59 352 ford in 1966. Degreased it 3 times before I found the valve covers. Probably learned as much from that worn out engine as I’ve learned from all the ones since. Go for it.
Do not use Teflon tape anywhere on anything. It has a tendency to migrate to where you really don’t want it too.
The most expensive gaskets are the head gaskets , included in a full gasket kit . Probably NOT leaking oil . In no particular order ; valve cover gaskets , intake manifold " China walls" ( normally use Right Stuff or silicone nowadays). Pan gasket , front& rear main seals , timing cover gasket ,fuel pump gaskets , distributor gasket . These are all messy & time consuming to replace , cleanliness is THE word . Other than crankcase pressure( blow-by) , none of these oil seals is under any high pressure . Leaks are caused by mis-installation & wear . start doing some research , there are all sorts of gaskets & seals on the market to help address old engine wear .
Just wait until you get old. Welcome, Mark. Wash that sucker off and LOCATE the major leaks. May not be as many as you think. Older cars leaked much more than todays. Ben Ben.
Mark, welcome! I agree with getting an entire engine gasket set. Do you have the ability and equipment to pull the engine out of the truck? This would be the easiest way to reseal the engine. It would also give you a chance to paint the engine. Rockauto has all the parts you will need much cheaper than any other place. FelPro makes transmission gasket sets.
If you have access to a cherry picker , or chain fall . Realistically the engine and trans will come out as a unit in a 1/2 day to a day if you take your time . buy a complete gasket set , minus head gasket if the engine is ok as far as compression etc . pressure wash it , take it apart and replace all gaskets and seals. In most cases a complete engine and trans gasket set is cheaper then trying to piece meal it together. also when you get the valve covers and oil pan off make sure the gasket surfaces are smooth and straight, a lot of guys over torque and bend the flanges causing leaks. Take your time and tap them flat . with the engine out you can detail it and the engine compartment and have something really neat once your done . I have always had good luck with Fel-Pro gaskets
Wow thank you all for the advise, sounds like a full gasket set is in order since I think most of them are either original or were last replaced in 70’s/80’s (older than me). I’ll look around for the oversized trans plug and remove the Teflon tape. Sadly I can’t take the engine out. I’ve got basic tools but nothing significant like a hoist. I’ll probably start at the top and work my way down replacing them one at a time. In a perfect world I would get the engine removed and go through and clean it part by part then paint it but I can’t get the engine out and I don’t have enough knowledge yet to ensure I wouldn’t break anything.
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