Does anyone with a manual GM car know of a good quality shift fork/bellhousing boot? I've bought one from Summit, fits the hole in the bellhousing great, but as soon as you move the clutchfork, it pulls out of the bell housing because it has zero give in it. Anyone know of one that works? Its an ally GM bellhousing, BBC specifically. Thanks
Having the wrong clutch fort / pivot ball/ to bearing , while it may function, can have things out of operational alignment to the point that the boot won't be retained .... Maybe look for NOS .
On the one I used this Spring (don't remember the maker) I had to cut away a bunch of extra material at the front inside near the bell to allow the fork to pivot and not bind up. Maybe you need to thin things out a bit too.
If it isn't a GM unit it will probably be too stiff. Is that a 14007355? GM used that boot in quite a few vehicles so you should still be able to get it new, or if not get a NOS unit from somewhere for ~$10. GM units are much more pliable and supple, some of the aftermarket ones are as soft as a brick. Rubber is the wrong durometer, thickness varies in the wrong spots, and usually has a bunch of flashing that needs to be trimmed off. In a pinch I've used the bricks but it requires some slicing at the ends of the 'U' to allow ease of movement, some sil-glyde on the fork to allow the boot to slip and I've even used a bit of sealeant/glue to keep the boot attached to the bellhousing. Check the groove, if there is flashing or walls in side the groove it won't let the boot seat. Not the finest moment in hot rodding, but it kept road debris out.
You could fashion up either a thin plate or a few strips and drill a few holes and attach it to the bell.
Here is what Mad Mike suggested above: https://paceperformance.com/i-51309...fork-boot-1963-1981-gm-cars-light-trucks.html https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-boot-14007355
You might consider checking the availability of this part# at any local GM Parts Department. Even if they have to special order it for you it probably won't take more than a couple of days. And there shouldn't be any additional shipping or handling charges like with the online dealers.
Does that make the rubber harder ? As an additional thought , the fulcrum of the clutch arm is only about an 1 1/2" from the boot , that part of the arm can't move much more than 1/4 - 1/2 " . I'd be looking to see why you have soooo much movement that its dis- lodging the boot ???
since you are away from most speed shops-look around at different shifter boots-they come in many sizes and are generally more flexible
You obviously haven't tried doing this in like..........years! There is a reason so much reproduction stuff is being made, The General stopped making replacement parts a long time ago.
This is the boot that Mad Mike mentioned. GM's 14007355 Clutch Fork Boot (3dcartstores.com) Per the notes you may have the bellhousing that is the exception. I know from personal experience that if you don't get the inner lip in correctly so the boot is seated in the opening right they will come out.
Yup. Undercar with trans installed it can be a PITA. I've used a painters stirring stick to nurgle the boot around the fork and seat it to the bell.
I wish they would reproduce the boot that fits (correctly) the 64-67 Chevy II belhousing. NOS versions have become like hens teeth, I would even be happy to find a used original boot for my car.
This boot came out of the Broadview, IL GM Parts warehouse in 1967, I’ve had it on the shelf all these years. I always thought it was Chevy, but it bears no resemblance to the ones pictured in this thread. It does fit a Chevy bell housing, is it just an earlier design? Oh, the curve to the bottom is just from the way it was stored, it is still very pliable.
The fork is really tight in there, almost like its too big, which wont help im sure. Just surprised no ne makes one that works, but nowadays, i dont know why I should be, so many rubbish 'replacement' parts out there.
The Jalopy Journal
