Multi-carbs with an overdrive trans

I currently have a sbc with a single edelbrock 600 in front of a 200-4r. I would like to put on a tri-power but am totally lost as to making the tv cable work properly with such a set up. any one done this or have any tidbits of info? I am capable of making/modifying brackets but have zero expierience with multi carbs. thanks for any help you can give.

 

Stromberg just came out with some linkage parts that may help:


http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=9096K-KD


http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=9136K

Tech on multi carb:
http://www.stromberg-97.com/tech_center/multiple_carb.asp#techlist

 

I have the same setup so I'm going to follow ,maybe I will learn something.

 

Yep, I've been wondering the same thing. I've got triple dueces and would like to go to an OD trans for some highway cruising but not sure how to sort out the TV cable thing either.

 

Check out bowtie overdrives......they are the leader in TV hookups imo

 

I personally wouldn't use a 2004R in any vehicle. But you can get a 4L60e that does not use electronics and utilizes a small amount of vaccum in place of the electronics.

 

thank you but I wasn't looking for opinions on my set up, just how to make it work. the 2004r was a no brainer as I was replacing a th350. I've been very happy with it. those stromberg parts look interesting. I agree on bowtie overdrives but I nev er saw any info on multi carb...maybe I'll call. thanks everyone

 

Just try to duplicate the linkage you all ready have as to distance from shaft and angle.

 

Tci has a constant pressure valve body available for both 200 and 700r4 transmission.
It doesn't eliminate the cable all together but it eliminates cable related failures ( trans go boom) and the cable adjustment become much less critical.
I Haven't used it - just throwing it out there for you.

 

Your TV cable will operate off of the primary carb in your setup. Find the geometry corrector image, and follow that to use on your primary carb. I don't have the image with me right now or I'd send it along. Try Sumner's links on purplesagetradingpost for 700R4 tips.

 

I had 3x2 set up with a 700r4. I used Rochester carbs. I used a rear carb bracket Lokar trp-4003. You have to use a stainless steel TV cable and just hook it to the center carb and adjust it to the setting your transmission needs and that's it.

Jim

 

Did you not understand his question? Alot of hot rodders use this trans with no issues.

 

Did you not understand my reply?

Most well built cars do not use a 2004R.

As far as the OP using one, that's his prerogative. It's his car.

 

on my old roadster i had a 350-350 combo and looped it through the firewall straight to the gas pedal so that whatever carbs i was running at the time it was always hooked up

 

As happens all too often anymore on HAMB a reasonable question, like the one Tudorkieth posed, gets high jacked by someone who thinks only his opinion is correct. And, of course, I am adding to the issue by responding to Waddyacare.


According to Waddy, any car with a 200R is not well built. So, all those cars at the Grand National, Detriot Autoramma, Sacramento, 100 Car Pile Up, etc with 200R's were pieces of shit. Interesting.

 

UMMM...... no I did not understand your reply as well as everyone else here. The question was about a multi carb set up with his overdrive trans.

 

Good to know.

 

Just a bit of confusion between HOTROD and streetrod. I love that debate. As for fabbing a TV bracket, pretty fucking simple aint it..

 

Damn I better pull my 200r out

 

Not really interested in this pissn match but I am interested in the TV cable issue. Yeah, the Stromberg parts look cool.

 

I have a Tri-Power set up with 94's using a 700r4 and a TV Cable.
Had to make the linkage part that goes on the center carb so I would have a place to hook up the Lokar TV cable I have.
When the center carb is closed the aluminum bar that I made which all the rest of the setup is hooked to had to be set at about 25 to 27 degrees if I remember right then I made a bracket to hold the cable and bolted it to the rear carb and the cable has to be horizontal from the rear bracket to the hook up spot on the center carb so the Geometry will be right, the TV cable has to move more than the throttle on the center carb when the gas pedal is pushed.
You will need a pressure gauge and a hose that hooks up to the port on the drivers side of the transmission so the pressure can be checked in each gear.
There are charts out there on line that tell you what the pressure should be in P,R,1,2,3, etc at a certain RPM.
From what I understand if you watch the gauge and see a jump in pressure instantly off idle the transmission will not be hurt even if the TV cable is not adjusted right so Initially that is the first adjustment you will want to make.
After I did that the rest of the pressures came in pretty close.
I have about 2500 miles on mine so far and seems to be working good.
There is a ton of information on the HAMB about this issue if you search around.
If anyone is interested in pictures of my set up P.M. me with your email address and I will sent them to you.
I'm not very good at explaining things so not sure if any of the above infor will help or not but will be glad to email pics out.
Some of the Transmission vendors explain it on there websites to I used Phoenix Transmissions.
There are alot of brackets out there made to help this problem but no one makes anything for the Holly 94's, but my bracket is pretty simple to make.

 

Maybe this will help the picture shows the geometry but mine was backwards from this setup since my gas pedal pulls the center linkage from the bottom towards the firewall instead of the other way around like th picture but will help you get the idea.


More info
http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html

http://www.shiftritetransmissions.com/700r4tvinfo.htm

http://www.monstertrans.com/store/news/7/700R4%2C-2004R-Adjustable-Throttle-Valve-Cable-Instructions.html

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

 

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/Rochester%20Tri-Power%20Small%20Base.pdf

 

I have a 283 with the holly 94 tri power. I'm also using the 200r4 trans.
I'm looking to find out what bracket or brackets were used & how you set up your combo.
Any info would be appreciated .
Thankyou

 

I use the Art Carr guide to 700R4 (and 2004R) TV cable adjustment and the schematic showing the bracket(s) design (just like "djust" posted above). If the geometry is right---78 degrees of cable movement from idle to wot and 1.5 inches from throttle shaft center line it makes no difference to the transmission whether you have 2 or 20 carbs. As to the retards bad mouthing the 2004R it can be built to handle up to 1500hp and WILL FIT in most of the 30's and 40's cars but then are those that just enjoy butchering the X frame and floor pan to shoe horn in their beloved 700. Cheap, hell no, but if cheap is paramount to your build stay with the manual three speed. I also use the TCI constant pressure valve body so all the cable does is select shift points and has nothing to do with band/clutch pressure.

 

Bowtie overdrives is the correct choice. What maybe some guys don’t understand is that their kit actually comes with a different pressure spring you are going to change out in the valve body of the tranny. Kit comes with the bracket plates, tv cable, spring, everything. Instructions are great and it’s easy as pie to install and I hate any tranny stuff. Voodoo as far as I’m concerned. Their cam system lets you easily tune shift points once you get to dialing it in. Well worth the money.



Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Well I had to jump in since many of the replys hit several sensitive subjects.
First..I have 4 97's on my Ardun. Are they finicky, YES. But that's their personality. Get used to it.
Second, I have a 200 4r and after lots of advice and tinkering am very pleased. Best advice came from Lokar, coupled with linkage kit from Speedway, and the diagram often posted about geometry.
Three, having said the above, install on the primary carb the appropriate linkage to the geometry specs. This is important. Key is that the lower arm from close throttle, with the TV cable installed with slight tension, then to wide open throttle pulls the TV cable to "full pull". This has to happen first before anything else. It's all in the geometry. Not hard at all and does have to be on target at wide open.
Fourth, electronics. Multiple ways to control. It only has to do with fourth/overdrive. Three ways: 1) manual switch to turn on/off overdrive with a toggle switch. Easy. 2) considering option 1, I never turn mine on. Trans is left in third, works perfectly around town/traffic the when I hit the super slab up shift to OD and off we go. At the off ramp, shift into third till the next super slab. 3) PAT sells an electric lock up switch. Locking up is fine. It's unlocking the issue. A brake line pressure switch works fine to unlock/break the power when you tap the brakes. It allows the OD to drop out.
Net: a) you do not want to lug the 2004r in OD. Shortens the OD clutch life. b)
I don't have a manifold vacuum source. Thus, if you do, there are manifold vacuum kits that allow the switch signal to what I did/do with my manual switch and/or simply manual switch OD.
Do all this on the primary carb function one. Then set second and third carb accordingly.
Next...I shouldn't but Waddaycare, apparently now banded, is epitome of key board cowboys. He doesn't have a clue of fact. .
200r4's are smaller, lighter and a no mod replacement for a t350. And are highly sought after. And will easily take 700+ hp.
Done.

 

In a 200R4 (and a 700R4), overdrive is not controlled electrically.

Overdrive is 4th gear. It is shifted into hydraulically.

What is controlled electrically in those transmissions is the locking together of the sections of the torque converter. That is done to eliminate the slippage inherent in a fluid coupling, which, if left alone, turns some engine power into heat, not forward motion.

If you have an override switch on your torque converter lockup, and you are in 4th you are running your transmission in a manner it was not designed to work, and are shortening its life by running it too hot.

 

First, I agree with this. Thanks for pointing it out.

But....considering the gearing that was usually installed in production cars that used this transmission, vs. what most hot rods with OD have, is it much of an issue? Seems to me that lockup came along about the time (late 70s) that carmakers were installing rear gears in the low-mid 2s (with 3 speed automatics). When they got overdrive in the early 80s, the rear end ratios got bumped up to around 3. With these ratios, the engine would be below 2000 rpm a lot of the time, and the converter would slip quite a bit if it didn't have lockup. But if you're running 3.70 or 4.11 with one of these transmissions, you probably are not slipping the converter much at highway speed, eh?

Hot rodding is mostly about using cars and their parts in a manner that it was not designed to work