I've got a local swap meet coming up soon, and didn't know if you gentlemen had any recommendations on picking out a steering column, or related items I should be on the lookout for? Maybe I'm not looking in the right places (I'm still pretty new to the hobby/lifestyle/disease), but there doesn't seem to be a lot of information on choosing or altering steering columns. I've got a chopped and channeled '30 sedan on a mandrel-bent frame. Planning on a running a cross-steer/vega box. Thank you in advance!
I would look for a clean looking column without a lot of needless clutter that has a built in turn signal switch that has a wire for the horn. Also, do you need a shifter on the column? Is there a particular steering wheel that you are fond of? Choose accordingly.
This might be the most important part....get a column that matches the type of wheel that you want to use. And don't be shy about doing some serious modification/fabrication to get the column you really want.
^^^^ Good advice. And if you do have a particular steering wheel in mind, remember that cross-fitting makes isn't always possible with wheels and you do need to pay attention to how the turn signals cancel even among makes. If you're planning an aftermarket wheel with an adaptor, that's not critical. And with some older columns, availability of turn signal switches can be spotty.
Wiring kits like GM columns and Ididit sells horn adapters if you want to run an earlier wheel. GM van's key switch is not in the column. Stay away from 80's and newer as metric so wheel availability limited
Look for something old with a cool steering wheel. Most will have the steering box. Cut the box off, cut the column to length. Leave extra steering shaft for a u-joint. Add a bearing to the end of the tube (steering box end)
3/4 rod, 3/4 id x 1 3/8od bearings, lenght of 1 1/2 exhaust pipe, some u joints, a quick disconnect hub and any style wheel you want. Set it up any way you want. Easy peasy.
Or upgrade to aluminum but yeh, pretty much how I did mine. Probably not quite so easy for someone new to the hobby but a good way to get your feet wet right!
I'm running one out of a 65 lemans. Its gm so replacement parts are easy to find. Also steering wheels are easy to come by that fit. Key on dash. No tilt or extra crap on the column. My favorite reasons, built in turn signals and horn..
I got one from a late 60's farm truck with a 4 speed once. No key, no shifter and fairly old looking. New turn signal switches or parts are available, if needed. Gary
I'm not sure the year of mine, but it's in the 80's because it has the ugly box on the ts switch side, and I have a 67 Chevelle wheel on it. I think the metric stuff is on the fwd cars and the airbag wheels.
Truthfully unless you are looking for a hot rod column from a hot rod parts vendor at the swap meet most old used columns that look presentable with limited clutter on them are going to be overpriced as they fit cars that are now collector cars. Many columns made before 1968 have a one piece shaft that runs clear to the steering box. They don't modify for hot rod use without a bunch of work. Clean 68 and earlier floor shift car columns usually come into that collector car Price thing.
Great info, but what do you consider "overpriced?" Just curious. I'm fairly new to hot rod building, but not too afraid to aggressively modify something if needed.
I’ve cut columns, not a difficult procedure. If it has a steering box attached you can remove the tube and cut the shaft to length. U-joints are available in weld on or double D. The shaft can have the double D flat spots milled. You can add a bushing or bearing to the tube to support the shaft at the bottom. If cutting a splined shaft, I’ve shortened the steering shaft in the middle. Then had a sleeve that presses the two pieces together and welded. Ive also used gm van and motorhome columns. The keyless ones. Then cut to length.
Speedway has what you describe for $106 bucks. That's what I an using in my Model A. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Nost...sku=91032311-34&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_sour
A 51 Ford column has a turn signal installed and is a column shift which can be converted to use an automatic trans.
I used a 47 Ford colunm I had to chop down and install sealed trailer bearings with a 3/4 shaft hole for the shaft that was cut to size and mated it to a Mustang box. A buddy of mine's dad had a bunch of F-1 parts so I got this steering set up off him. It sounds like with a channel and chop your most likely going to have to chop something down to fit. I had a Olds tilt colunm from the mid seventies but in a hot rod it looked out of place and looked like a tree trunk sticking out of the floor.
I have used 1 1/2" exhaust pipe for the tube and hardware store flanged bearings top and bottom. You can run it plain at the top or get creative. I have used a cut down plastic cup to make a transition to the wheel. Epoxy and bondo are usefull.
A possible starting point might be a column from an 82 or older Chevy or GMC van. It doesn't have the key on the column but in the dash. There are some rare tilt and also floor shift columns out there too. Modern turn signals and smooth column. Lots to offer and often overlooked .
If you want something butt ugly, get a tilt column. I hate to see them. As for me, I put a column out of a 1964 Chevelle in my 34 pickup truck. It had all the built in turn signal and horn hardware in it. I adapted it to a Vega box.
Most of the OEM columns you will find at a swap meet will be big and clunky. You want something compact and simple for your project. Limeworks and Speedway both offer columns better suited to you build than most OEM columns.
i always liked the late 60s/early 70s gm a body columns . i like the locking wheel and one less hole in the dash . but , their getting very hard to find. at least the tilts . which i love ! i think 72 is about as new as id use.
Sometimes adaptation is required between the top end and the bottom end and in this situation welding is not accepted by our authorities Down Under. As Ford and GM have different wheel splines and you may prefer another manufactures steering box it's sometimes easy to replace/use each others later model DD type collapsible column shaft components and join them up using Borgeson DD tubing. Most manufacturers use the same 3/4" DD profile on their shafts. https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=1707&cat=4&page=1 I was able to marry a Ford splined upper DD shaft to a Jaguar splined lower DD shaft using this DD tube. This was for a Jag front end conversion in a '46 Tudor build with a Ford Falcon steering column. It also provides/contributes to a collapsible column advantage which is another Aussie requirement for modified car builds.
For my ‘32 pickup I used the column from a 1968 GMC pickup. It worked very well for me. It has an old-school look, turn signal and 4-way flasher switch, and does not have tilt or an ignition switch. Also the long length of the shaft was good as it gave me the option of cutting to the exact length I needed. I cut the double D’s on the milling machine and used a u-joint to connect it to the mustang steering box.
I my self like looks of clean strip look , No turn , key , or shifter . Used 3 pole toggle switch under the dash & Headlight switch under the dash. I have made several steering columns this one is for my 32 Chromoly, 1-1/2 Od tube. Less then $70ish with Roller bearings Double D shaft . On this one I use a Strange Quick release added another $100 , under $200. If no access to lathe & tig or person with. In a Gm column 68 older , Even some P series box trucks up until 95 ish No key , with & with out shifter .
I have a chanelled roadster so I took a 47 Ford colunm and shortened it and the shifter to mate it to my auto tranny with 5\16 heim ends.
I like no frills, cheap, old looking and plain......and cheap . 70's Postal Jeep, used one on my friends '30 A. Fit perfect, no cutting, good looking steering wheel and had spline at the other end (easy u joint to Vega box). I think he did make a drop extension of a couple of inches for his taste.
Here's mine, 1 1\2 inch exhaust tubing, flanged bearings and 3\4 shaft. It has a removable wheel and working horn. Got the horn idea here on the HAMB.
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