Technical First Timer - 1955 Crown Victoria 272 / 292

^^^ Just some info from our efforts to get our 56 Tbird running great and related cost:
We got new HEI distributor from on-line(ebay vendor I think) that had the manual drive for the tach for $247. I'm guessing a new HEI without the tach drive is much cheaper. Secondly, we bought a new 500 cfm Edelbrock from Oreilly for $425 as well as a $58 MSD coil for HEI. Thirdly, we scrounged for an adaptor only to learn they were readily available at Summit for about $35 that allowed using later carbs on the original 4 bbl manifold.
As to possible issues, check the ignition resistor. It could be a problem but we upgraded to HEI and the ignition resistor was eliminated.
Hang in there and good luck!
PS Forgot to mention that should check the Tbird thread for some other sources for a good carburetor recommended by others on the HAMB that might be cheaper than what I bought.

 

The 2 barrel carb in one of the early photos looks like a later 2100 series Autolite carb, which was used in many, many Ford cars and trucks well into the seventies, and maybe later.

They’re as common as dirt and easily rebuilt.

Any one of them should at least get the car running.

 

Agree with finn on the 2100 two barrel, easy to work on and unless the shaft and carb body are completely worn out should work fine. They were used on everything from trucks to Mustangs and are cheap. The original 55 engine would have been a 272 and that 4 barrel manifold looks just like the original from my 55 and is the small bolt pattern that used the tea pot holley, the large bolt pattern (modern Holley/Edelbrock) didn't come around till 57. There is an adapter from early small to late bolt pattern. According to my owners manual the 272 4 barrel with dual exhaust was rated 182 H.P. The Thunderbird in 55 got the 292 but not in cars until 56. Get it running with the two barrel before spending lots of money on a new carb. Check out y-blocks forever website, John Mummerts website, Tim McMaster, and lots of other websites with history of these engines and how not to make common mistakes. I clicked on the link from page 1 of this post for 52-59 social group and it worked for me. The Hot Rod reverend has complete service manuals and parts lists on DVD's for pretty cheap, I would suggest getting one! Have attached a couple pictures of my original 4 barrel carb.

 

Congrats on your find and welcome to the world of Y-blocks! Lot's of good info on them here on the h.a.m.b. and on The Ford Barn.
As mentioned, the 2100 Autolite is a good carb, plentiful and easy to work on. I have one on my 312, mine is mounted on the 4 bbl manifold with a Mr Gasket carb adapter. It works well...

 

The 2100 series carb is a good one, but that one looks like it could use a rebuild. The kits are like $20, and it won't be terrible to rebuild with some new gaskets and seals and to just make sure all the passages are clear. Of course you could also just put a brand-new Edelbrock 500 on there and forget it. I'd echo the sentiments of an HEI or similar electronic distributor. The fact is even a marginal engine will run pretty damn well with good reliable fuel delivery and spark. You can get basically everything for that engine, as well as a lot of other stuff, from RockAuto. They're a great resource.

 

I’ve had success with a lawnmower gas tank

 

Quick question. Best way to remove the sludge on the valve train and the oil tube? Any concern with fluid going down the openings if we use degreaser?

 

I would pull it. I would take completely or nearly completely down depending on how it looks. I would clean all passages and inspect everything. If you are lucky all you may need is a gasket set and a valve lap job. If it needs more....Now's the time to find out.

 

Question on fuel pump and lines. Trying to figure out why there is a line from the fuel pump to the firewall (or going from the firewall to the fuel pump. In the picture, it is marked as number 1 on the pump side and number 4 on the firewall side)

 

W

windshield wiper.

 

It’s a vacuum from the fuel pump?

 

Yep....to the vacuum wiper motor. Look to confirm as I'm more familiar with earlier models but I'm pretty sure that's it.
Oh...the numbers are probably somebody's "code" to put it back together.

 

Looking for a part number on the fuel pump in case we need to rebuild or replace. I see it has AC on the top but no other numbers.

 

The vacuum wipers were fed from the back of carb to the upper chamber of the fuel pump then to the wiper motor. It was to keep the wipers moving during acceleration when the engine has low vacuum. Depending on the heater and year it would also open a valve on the intake to allow hot water to circulate thru the heater core.
I would remove the rocker system and service it replacing parts as needed. Tim McMaster shows on a You Tube how to do it.

 

Tim McMaster, you should be able to link to the needed YouTube here:
http://yblockguy.com/

 

That Vic is a nice looking project. Partnering with your Son makes it really special! They grow up fast and he'll soon be making his own way in life, so make sure you have someone periodically take a photo of you two working on the car together. In the thrash a thon, you'll forget to pause and take photos of yourselves.
I too was an older Dad compared to my kids' friends but I outdid most of them being immersed in all 4 of the kids activities.
When my Son was 15, 2 months before he was to turn 16 (and get his driver's license) , he had a self reality check that his older Sister's hand me down 4dr Civic was way too much of a Chick car for him to drive. Beggars can't be choosers. We can all relate.
He asked "Dad, what would it take to get your old Chevy pickup on the road"? My answer; "everything. It's been parked 9 years". Well, he and I thrashed on it every weekend for those 2 months. He learned how to do brakes,, shocks, a full tune up, change all the fluids and filters, water pump and fuel pump, rebuild a carb, etc. We installed a new stereo system ourselves and picked up a real decent set of used/cheap polished aluminum rims for it.
He's 22 now and has been out on his own for a year and a half with his Girlfriend.
Thankfully, my Wife got a few pics of us working together as well as a video of him proudly driving the truck off to school the day after his 16th birthday. We were way too busy working and enjoying each others company to pause and take a few photos.

 

Looking to pick up a radiator for the Crown Vic. My son and I are wondering which other vehicles we could target in the used car parts store (ok, junkyard) for a replacement radiator and fan. Buddy of his suggested looking at Ford Trucks and Granadas. Any truth to this? If not, other options folks might recommend?

 

Great project car! I am doing something similar to a 57 country sedan but I am starting from scratch in some areas. here is my 2 cents worth:

-You are not very far from Hanford, Ca which is where Tim McMaster is located and he can help you with your engine. Or try Mummerts in LA-not sure where he is down there.
-You can get a new aluminum rad from Auto City, I think one for my car is like $300ish.
-Sheet metal from EMS

I will be following along for tips I can use.

Mike

 

Agree. I got the aluminum one for about 300 in my 56 merc which should be about the same

 

Another resource is The Ford Barn. They have a 54+ section with lots of smart people.

mike

 

I like the simple approach. Get it running first. You don't need the waterpump and radiator until it fires and runs for a minute or two. Vice Grip Garage on YouTube just drove a Cadillac on the Hot Rod Power tour, over a thousand miles. He pulled that Caddy out of a ravine in TX a couple years ago and it hadn't run in 20 years. It's an original paint, refurbed interior, mostly unrestored beauty. On the HRPT last week, it was using quite a bit of oil. After about 500 miles the rings re seated and it didn't use oil the rest of the week.
Don't throw a bunch of new parts at it if you don't have to. Don't tear it all the way down if you don't have to. You might have to, but you might not. I was hoping to drive my OT car but the rod knock made it clear it had issues. Pulled the pan and saw huge problems. That short block was tossed. But, if it had run fine, I would have driven it until it didn't. JY aren't great sources for working radiators, but again, it doesn't need one yet.
Good luck and awesome idea working on this with your son. Tremendous.

 

Yes, we have got it running on starter fluid and gasoline from a glass coke bottle. Set the valve lash. Sounds good. Trying to keep cost down for now just until we can confirm the tranny works. Figure a junkyard radiator is fine for now (provided it has good flow) because it won’t be on the road for a bit (well, we do plan to take it around the block once or twice before we pour too much $$ into it). We are about done rebuilding the carburetor, though it looks like we have to reuse the interior gasket (the ones in the kit don’t match).

 

I'm pretty sure the dual vacuum advance was a only 1956 4 barrel cars. Napa has a fuel pump but not cheap https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NNPB0085P?impressionRank=15

 

We are about done rebuilding the carburetor, though it looks like we have to reuse the interior gasket (the ones in the kit don’t match).

@carbking, mid 50's Ford 2100 carb. Can you suggest a carb parts source?

 

@carbking, are you able to suggest parts source for mid '50's Ford 2100 Autolite carb?

 

1957 was the introductory year for the the Autolite 2100 (2 barrel) and 4100 (4 barrel),

In 1958, both carbs went through a MAJOR casting redesign. Parts for the 1958 and newer Autolites are common. Parts for the 1957 carbs, because they are a one year only, are somewhat difficult, and expensive (no economy of scale).

Perhaps the third line in my signature block?

https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kford.htm

Jon.

 

Here’s a picture of the original gasket and the two new ones included in the rebuild kit. Notice that the package says opening it prevents you from returning for refund. So, you end up buying something sight unseen and when you open it to see if there is a fit, you are unable to return the product.

We think we might be able to trim one of the new gaskets to match the old one, but we aren’t sure of the “hole pattern” differences matter much. Ours had two holes placed vertically. The others either have three holes in a triangle or a five sided shape cut out on the left and center hole.

Even if we trim, still not a perfect fit. That’s why we are thinking of reusing the old gasket. Thoughts?

 

Check the new gaskets to see if everything seals.

The holes over the float chamber are merely internal vents, and their position doesn't really matter that much.

I am not a believer in using old gaskets, but have not seen the condition of your gasket.

HOWEVER:

If you have a scanner, and software that will do 1:1 on sizing (I use Adobe Acrobat); clean the lower casting, and place it on the scanner. Scan the surface. Now acquire a sheet of gasket material that will fit in your printer, and print the scan. Cut it out, and you have a new gasket.

Jon.

 

Jon, that is one heck of a tip! Thanks for posting it.

 

Great advice from these guys!
Like everybody else sez......get it running and THEN start repair/replacing parts as needed or time allows.
Ex........you would be more apt to replace a bad engine than.... tear out engine AND tranny AND quarter panels AND doors AND interior.....See what I mean?! Little bites.

About body work.......trust me, use patch panels when ever possible!
DO NOT buy after market fenders/doors/quarters and expect them to just bolt on and FIT!!
I learned the hard way on my (M-word) car.
Nothing can beat factory (OEM or NOS)body panels for fit.
Stuff like fuel tanks "most-of-the-time" are better off being replaced. Same for fuel lines.
Keep the pics coming.
6sally6