For many years I worked for a vehicle (crash rescue-fire truck) manufacturer. Through the years I procured fender welt from them. It was plastic and black and no one ever called me on it. Really don't want the restorer style. With my supplier gone I don't know where to look. Any help? Ron
I'm not following you. As far as I know, there's only the one style. I have been pondering something to put between the steel pieces to keep the rattles and squeaks down. I'll be following this.
Google VW fender welting. There are a lot of vendors that have it. 3/16" bead with a 1" flange....if that's what you're looking for.
So the ‘restorer style’ is the ‘oily’ cloth stuff available at places like Mike’s Affordable, Snyder’s, etc? I may have answered my own question, but trying to clarify. John
I just bought fender welting from a place here in Salem, Oregon called Discount VW. Everywhere I looked on the internet it was $2 a ft. plus shipping. Discount VW was less than $1 a ft. and free shipping. And they shipped it Priority 1 Day service! Found them on Ebay.
I bought a spool of heavy rubber welting years ago when I put fender flares on my OT Bronco. Bought it at a 4X4 truck outlet. It is a full inch wide with a 3/16" hollow bead. It is easy to use, conforming to curves much better than the cloth covered restoration type sold. Still have some, in fact enough to do my A coupe.
^^^ This Is what we use. A trick is if you are trying to get it to conform to a tight corner etc, Insert bailing wire in the hollow core and shape it-wife came up with that one when we were trying to get it to conform on a tight radius on a 37 woodie front sheet metal. Use that method now in places where it does'nt want to conform just right
There are different types of welting on the more traditional Ford supplier sites. You’ll need to look to be sure, but I’ve purchased woven welting for running boards, etc. (I used it between the frame rails and a ‘32 gas tank), and rubber welting as well (I used under the cowl of a Model A). Mike’s Affordable is but one of several sources. Just something to check out if interested. John
[QUOTE="Roothawg, post: 14180683 ...I have been pondering something to put between the steel pieces to keep the rattles and squeaks down. I'll be following this.[/QUOTE] Most industrial supply outlets will have rubber sheets in a variety of thicknesses. I used some that looks like it is made from re-cycled rubber (has speckled coloring embeded in it)to isolate the sub frame on a channeled body from the chassis. I used 3/8" thick strips trimmed after dropping the body making it virtually invisible but covering every inch. Very tough stuff. It worked out really well. I can get a pic if needed. I have several 3' X 4' mats of this material that my wife got from her workplace. They used it for protecting rolls of newsprint.
Just one other thing to share if using rubber. Heating rubber makes it very easy to manipulate. We used a steam heated hotbox prepping the rubber gaskets installing windshields and rear windows. Installed thousands of them, about 50 years ago.
And pie cut the backing strip to stop it bunching up. A touch of black sealant (not silicon) on joins or ends, too.
I've just pie cut the flat part anywhere I needed much of a bend. Slight bends are fine, but hard bends need a few pie cuts to allow it to bend and not ripple.
You can make your own easily enough. Get some outdoor upholstery vinyl as used for boat and car upholstery, cut strips 2" wide and sew it or glue it around a plastic string, upholstery supply places sell plastic for this purpose or use Weed eater string. Make welting of any color vinyl you like.
Not trying to confuse the question about beaded welting, but sometimes, I have had the need for a non-beaded welting................ to go between various metal panels (to protect paint, reduce squeaks, prevent chaffing) so I go to local discount fabric supply (or online) and purchase Velcro with adhesive backing. I pull off the side with the hook-loop and apply/use the fuzzie side to the panel using the adhesive to secure it. Comes in various width, It is easy to cut bolt holes once stuck to panel, and crushes nicely to hide the welt. You can also find some colors if you don't like black. I've been using it for years on several projects and it holds up very well. Hope this adds a little to the discussion.
Make sure any vinyl you use is UV stable/marine or auto grade-lots isn't and fender welting is a job you really only want to do one time per car.
As said above Juliano's multiple colors even some special order stuff available and they make it inhouse check their website good people to do business with.
I know what you mean. This has come up before. I never saved it and can't remember when it was. There is an original Ford product, but people had other suggestions too. I'll need some.