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Projects 60's Era Street/Strip Model A Coupe

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by -Brent-, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,095

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Love that toe loop. Might have to steal that
     
  2. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Gotta be careful with those on a street Hotrod it may impede a urgent brake maneuver...just thinking out loud with little knowledge of these type of arrangements...perhaps its mounted high enough you'd have to lift your toe into it...
     
    Atwater Mike, loudbang and Thor1 like this.
  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,095

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I’d likely make it so my foot isn’t always under it, but could be if the need arises
     
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  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,095

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Though with big feet and the size of an A maybe I should make an arm off the solid linkage towards the dash with a panic button knob on it lol
     
    Thor1 and Stogy like this.
  5. @-Brent- are you going to Speedweek? I am passing thru SLC on the 4th or 5th, may stop and see Mac.
     
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  6. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Toe loops are great!

    I am going solid linkage, so if a carb sticks, I want to be able to pull it back. The ignition isn't too far away if I need to shut it down.

    The way this one is fabbed, it was easy to make it work with my foot/shoe.
     
  7. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,291

    jnaki





    upload_2021-7-24_4-17-0.png

    Hello,

    Your Model A coupe is coming along nicely and the look is what we probably would have done on our first Model A. When we had our 1940 Willys Coupe running in the B/Gas Class and then in the C/Gas Class, the Moon Aluminum Foot Pedal worked like charm. Plenty of space for our wide Chuck Taylor tennies and/or our Clark’s Desert Boots. But, the few times we went cruising around in our stomping grounds, that wide foot pedal, as nice as it looked, gave us some problems.

    We did see some straps that other racers had put on their Moon Aluminum Foot Pedals at the Lion’s Dragstrip pits. It made for a comfortable secure place for the right foot for the next 12 seconds. But, when it came time to remove the right foot and step on the brake, it took just a second or two to get it out of the toe strap and onto the brake pedal. In those few extra seconds, it made us that much closer to the end of the drag strip.

    It happened on the first and second street cruise after we got the 283 SBC carburetor motor running. It had plenty of go. When it was time to stop or at least “get ready” at a blind intersection, it took too long for our right foot to release and stomp on the brake pedal. Or even release and “cover the brake pedal” while going through the intersections. Blind or not.

    Jnaki

    Just a different way to look at a good idea for the drags, but not so much for everyday driving. With more traffic on the roads, anywhere, there is a lot of “covering the pedal” as we learned in our Driver Ed Classes. It is up to you, but for us, as nice as that strap looks in the Model A interior, it does have a major flaw in design action/reaction.

    Our Moon Aluminum Foot Pedal had little nibs on either side of the toe/ball area. That was enough for us to keep the wide tennies or desert boots on the pedal without slipping off in the Willys Coupe. The strap was removed as we made more runs down the dragstrip. Our friend put the strap on his Chevy sedan Moon pedal and almost ran into a wall at the end of a cul-de-sac during one of those power acceleration moves and tuning runs.

    In competition, great, in daily driving, a hassle, to always cover the pedal when “things” get around your car. YRMV
     
    Atwater Mike, deadbeat, Stogy and 4 others like this.
  8. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Sheetmetal Floor:

    This was the idea that was first laid out after the template. After stepping back and taking a look, we simplified it.

    Model A Floor Sheetmetal Layout.jpg

    Bead-rolled and bent. That center bead is for clearance for the rib on the bell housing. It's not terribly close but if I ever need to change motor mounts, the clearance will be nice.

    Model A Sheetmetal Floor Beadrolled and Bent.jpg

    There's still a little fitting and trimming to be done. You can see it's just a little fat. I want it to be able to come in and out easily.

    Sheetmetal Floor Corner Needing to Be Trimmed 1930 Coupe.jpg

    Fits pretty well.

    Model A Ford Sheetmetal Floor Bend CloseUp.jpg

    It's great to sit in there with a floor now.

    1930 Model A Sheetmetal Floor in Place.jpg Model A Floor Installed.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2021
  9. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,531

    Stovebolt
    Member

  10. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Taillight Access Panel Using a 1936 Ford Dash and Glovebox Door:

    By now you probably know that I am one of those "cardinal sinner" hot rod guys. I take parts that people wouldn't normally use (because of rarity or whatever) and I chop them up and repurpose them.

    The latest sin, taking a junk (really, it was) 1935/36 Ford dash and cutting out the glovebox section to put it in a panel in my trunk so I could access my taillights. The panel comes out easy enough at this stage, it's just a matter of a bunch of 1/4-20 bolts. But when the car is done, it'll be a headache.

    I have a few 35/36 dashes and glovebox doors stashed away, so I thought it might be a neat way to have access to the taillights and complement the dash. It’s one of those things that only you and I will likely ever see because you’d really have to be craning into the trunk space to see it.

    Alright, here are some pics:

    Trimmed to "fit". At this point, I didn't know if I wasted this piece. I took a few measurements on the panel and figured it was close enough to fit inside the bead-rolled portion.

    1935 36 Ford Dash Glovebox Section.jpg

    Looked like it would just fit.

    Access Panel Using Glovebox Dash Piece.jpg

    Stopped by a pal's shop and we cleaned it up in the blast cabinet.

    1935 1936 Ford Dash Glovebox Sextion Chopped and Blasted.jpg

    Also at this point, I wasn't sure if the mounting lip would clear the center support (that spare-tire bracket/stiffner) at the center of the taillight panel. I figured, if anything, I'd trim away and clearance whatever was needed.

    Glovebox Section  Mocked Where it Will Be Located.jpg Glovebox Door Access Taillight Access Panel.jpg

    To keep it simple, the hole was cut and it was tacked in from the back. No warping doing it that way.

    Dash Section From the Back of Panel.jpg

    I like the assymetric imperfectness. That suites this car just fine.

    Rear Panel with 36 Ford Glovebox Door on Bench.jpg

    Close up.

    I'm going to half-finish this trunk. Meaning, it will get two side panels that match the interior and I'm going to make an interior piece that covers this rear panel, too. So, around the door will be upholstered. If it were a painted piece, I'd finish it so it looked like one smooth piece.

    36 Ford Gloveboox Door Close Up.jpg

    From the back.

    Dash Section From Back of Panel 2.jpg

    Installed. Plenty of clearance. I can reach in and touch the taillights without issues. Using hand tools in the space should be no problems either.

    Model A Trunk Access Panel 1936 Ford Glovebox Door Open.jpg

    Rear Trunk Access Panel with 35 36 Ford Glovebox door installed.jpg Rear Panel with 36 Ford Glovebox Door.jpg

    Rear Trunk Panel with Access Door Installed.jpg

    Thanks to Matt Seret and Brian Thomas for helping out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2021
  11. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,628

    The37Kid
    Member

    Really like that trunk door!

    Bob
     
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  12. Stovebolt
    Joined: May 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,531

    Stovebolt
    Member

    As Paul Kelly sang, "from little things, big things grow".

    It's these little things that make a build a great build.

    nice use of good ol' hot rod re-purposing, thinking outside the box, and making something special out of a familiar part.
     
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  13. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 480

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Yeah, what a cool build. Some really nice touches.
     
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  14. 32 hudson
    Joined: Mar 5, 2005
    Posts: 778

    32 hudson
    Member

    That is a great idea having the access door and repurposing parts.
     
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  15. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,095

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Dang hot rodders smuggling high test Booze into Utah again. Sure you can say it’s for maintenance but we all know what hoodlums like you are REALLY up to!

    haha, looks great Brent. Gonna be such a damn cool car to pour over the details of
     
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  16. Todd553
    Joined: Feb 16, 2005
    Posts: 534

    Todd553
    Member

    Wow!! I love this!. Awesome work.
     
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  17. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks fellas!

    If it would help pay for chrome, I'd do it!!! Thanks man!
     
    Stogy, dana barlow, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  18. Ohhh Brent, you are very clever . Love it! You are giving me some ideas for a winter project. Great job as always. Model A Drag Coupes FOREVER!!!
     
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  19. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Thanks, Mike!

    I love this. I agree 1000000%
     
  20. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    After a little trim, it fits very well. I'll go around the edges and soften them and the next time the body is off I will get all the fasteners sorted.

    Trimmed Model A Floor Pan.jpg

    Next up: interior wood, fabbing a shifter offset bracket and continuing to hammer out a countless amount of dings.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2021
    31chevymike, brEad, catdad49 and 19 others like this.
  21. Right on Brent. Little victories, ever closer to blasting down the road or the track. Carry on brother!
     
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  22. This screams at the 'balance' side of my brain. It's weird, but I like it! Neat little touch.
     
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  23. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Me too! But it's weird and that fits. The trunk is such a confined space that literally the folks who see this thread will be the only ones to know or notice.
     
  24. It fits, It makes sense, and is functional . Perfect!:)
     
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  25. Hey Brent! While I was out in my shop going over some things on my coupe, I thought of you and was wondering, how close are you to firing the engine?
     
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  26. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    The gentleman I bought it from ran it on his engine stand with a single 4bbl. He kept the carb and I am running dual quads. I'd like to get the header fabbed before I start messing around with the drivetrain since it's one of the larger fab items left on the list.

    Also, I would like to get all the nitpicky stuff off the list for the body. I figure once all that stuff is done I will focus on the engine and so on. But since it's a runner, I haven't thought too much about it. It's that dang header. But I have a plan in the works.
     
  27. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Chopping Model A Quarter Window Wood (Mistakes Were Made! But I overcame.):

    This all starts a while back when I saw this image from Seabright Hot Rods.

    Lap Joint Quarter Window.jpg
    Photo: Seabright Hotrods

    Nobody will ever see it and it's not structural so it's hardly necessary. But, I kept this pic in my inspiration folder because I like craftsmanship and there's something about taking on a new challenge. There was never a follow-up or completed chop photo. Now I have a good inclination to why that is, hahaha. It's a little tricky (for me, anyway).

    I searched the Internet and to my surprise, there wasn't much detail on any form of window wood chopping, never mind lap jointing. So, it was starting to sound like my kind of project.

    I've never cut a lap joint that I can remember and I don't even own a dado blade. But, I've got a shop full of tools and I figured there weren't guys "dado-ing" way back when. So, I got to chopping and "lapping".

    I laid out the 4" I felt were the most logical to remove, found the center of that and chopped it. 1st, mistake. IT would be easier to lay out the 2" that needs to come out and then remove them. So, from there (on the first one) the cuts ended up throwing things off by a (wide) hair.

    Once I got that situated, I attempted to remove equal amounts from the upper and lower section so the overlap parts would overlap and I could screw them together and be done. However, that didn't happen. There was NO WAY this was getting screwed together.

    My brain loves these types of problems. I was committed to the lap joint but when you made the surfaces that the window garnish fasten to there was a noticeable gap between the pieces. I thought about shimming, at first, but that seemed like a bad idea. I wanted this to be a solid strong, unit.

    So, I drilled a couple dowels while the piece was clamped in place, glued the dowels in, and let them set up a bit while I dug through the chemical cabinet. I found some epoxy, mixed it up and made a proper mess. Getting the epoxy into that small area was tricky but I figured it out.

    Now I knew a little better on what to do for the next set. The pictures of the second piece being built are below.

    Stock Wood Before Chop.jpg


    While the epoxy was setting up, I laid out and cut the next set. Somehow I didn't cut the center out right - again! I cut a perfect lap joint on one side and the other - I forgot to take that inch out. So there was a 2' lap that was an inch too high on the wood, if that makes sense? That was an easy fix. I trimmed and inch off and hand-cut out another inch. This worked out well because I could fit it up to the other piece better.

    Lap Joint 1.jpg Lap Joint 2.jpg Lap Joint 3.jpg

    After trimming, I test fit and it fit really well. The only issue was the lap thickness was off, not by as much, but the same process was going to be needed for this one. It was getting late and I didn't have any more epoxy, so I called it a night.

    Lap Joint MUCH Closer.jpg

    All day I was eager to get back into the shop, so eager that I dropped my kids at school and head straight to Home Depot to get more epoxy and some epoxy wood filler.

    Since I had a choice this time, I grabbed some epoxy with a small outlet so I could fill the gap easily.

    With the whole day to think about about the remaining work, it went by fast when I got into the shop at the end of the day.

    Again, I clamped the pieces so they were secure and drilled in and set the dowels. I tried wood glue on the other piece and Gorilla Glue on this one. I went easy on tapping in the dowels because I wanted to maintain the proper gap, so that the face of the wood was all level. It took a little finessing but you kind-of figure it out in process.

    Clamped and Dowled.jpg Dowls IN Lap Joint.jpg

    Once that set up, I pulled it out for epoxy.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2021
  28. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Chopping Model A Quarter Window Wood (Part 2):

    Since epoxy and epoxy filler are messy and you've got a small window of time to work, I didn't snap any pics.

    Tape to keep epoxy in.jpg

    I squeezed in a bunch of epoxy and taped three sides after so I could add more in from the top. The wood absorbed some so I added more after checking on it.

    While I was working, I was looking at the screws and thinking about how after all this work that it would be a bummer if a pair of these screws loosened up from all the vibration of this coupe.

    Half Inch Dowl angled to Prevent Loosening Screws.jpg

    So, just like the originals, I decided to put in a (larger) dowel but in a different plane than the screws. Now those lap joints cannot separate due to loose screws.

    After putting in the 4 dowels. I puttied all the imperfections, sanded everything up and popped them in place.

    Here are the finished pics:

    Chopped Window Wood Compared TO Stock.jpg

    Driver's Side Quarter  Window 4 inch chop complete.jpg
    Driver's Side Quarter Window Chop Close Up.jpg
    Passenger's Side Quarter Window Wood Chop Complete.jpg
    Passenger's Side Quarter Window Wood Chop Close Up.jpg
    Model A Quarter Window Chopped.jpg

    Next up is the rear window wood, which will be a lot simpler. Then, I plan to seal all the window wood pieces to protect them from water/etc. I won't fasten anything, yet because there are still a few areas of the chop that need to be finished. I noticed a couple pinholes and a spot here and there that should get a couple welds.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2021
    31chevymike, AHotRod, brEad and 14 others like this.
  29. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 7,349

    -Brent-
    Member

    Oh, and I forgot to add, some of you will notice the top wood is gone. I removed what I had installed (the rear bow section) for head space. Since the insert panel will be bolted in, there's no need. There's a lot of space for me and I'm 6'2" (depending on the day, 6'3").
     

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