Technical The upholstery thread to end all threads

I've been wanting to dive into this ocean for a while. Mostly did everything on walter on my old home machine. Came across this Adler walking foot for 200$ and now already planning everything out to redo everything. Been practicing... man it rules. My goal is to be able to adequately do my buddies cars.

 

Can we be buddies???

 

haha cmon over

 

Man you stole that machine and it looks new to boot. As a pro upholsterer said on another forum, Jukis and Consew are the Fords and Chevys of walking foot machines, and Pfaffs are the Buicks. But Adlers are the Rolls Royces.

I recently bought a like new Consew 225 that had been sitting in the seller's basement unused since 89. So far, I'm trying to master the art of thread tension. But, I'll guarantee there's no one else on the HAMB who can touch my skill in making stitches that look good on the top side but look like a rat's nest on the underside. My wife said just the other day if I didn't get better soon we were gonna end up on food stamps due to wasted thread.

 

The angle of the slot is the opposite direction of the way the thread goes in the bobbin. You need more tension(tightness) of thread on the top side. When you pull both thread with your hands, the tension should feel the same. Also, hold both threads taught on the table when starting to sew. For beginners. Try sewing on a home machine before sewing on a commercial. Learn on how to thread one up and how to set the tension. This is why most machines never get used. Like fine tuning a motor. Everything has to work just right.

 

Thanks Stan. I worked with it some more after I posted earlier, and I think I found the problem. I could walk it thru manually and the stitches looked okay, but once I'd hit the pedal even slipping the clutch it would rat nest on the underside. Consew's manual sucks, but I found a copy of the manual for a Singer 111W155 online, and it has far better instructions.

I had the thread coming out of the bobbin case in the right direction, but the bobbin tension spring was reefed down so tight that the thread wouldn't slip under it. All along it seemed like there was almost no tension on the bobbin thread. Once I loosened the screw on that spring to the point where the thread would slip under it, things got about 90% better. With some tweaking on the upper tension, I ran about 40 ft of quarter inch stitches that look good on both top and bottom.

I'm going to pick up some new thread tomorrow. My machine came with 4 big spools, but the thread is 30 yrs old. I'd read previously that old thread often gives problems with feeding on the top side which causes variations in upper tension. I figured the old stuff would be fine for practice, but when I looked closely at my "good" stitches it was obvious the tension was varying as most of the knots were hidden between the 2 layers of vinyl but some stitches showed evidence of the knot sitting right at either the top or the bottom of the stitch, just like the things I'd read about using old thread warned about.

Didn't intend to make such a long post, but this thread shows there are quite a few people here on the board who are trying to learn to sew just like myself, so I figured a full explanation of what I found might help someone else with the same problem. One good thing about these commercial machines is that probably 90% of the ones out there are copies of the original Singer walking foot machine, so most information and problem solving applies across the board, regardless of brand.

 

Found this manual published by the US Navy covering repairs and adjustments for all the Singer walking foot clones. This has every adjustment and repair procedure that a repair shop would do in putting a machine back into good sewing order as well as a fairly extensive section on troubleshooting.

https://www.google.com/url?q=http:/...FjABegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw1g4CC-KrzATetPmHmfhO6b

The standard advice is always to just take the machine to a pro and have it tuned up. Good advice if there's a shop nearby that still works on commercial machines. 40 years ago here in NC, we likely had as much industrial sewing going on as any state in the country, between garment plants, blanket mills, and upholstered furniture plants. Most everyone knew someone who worked on the machines as their job in a plant or as an independent repair shop. Now, the closest repair place I know of is in Greensboro, 175 miles away. So, taking it in and dropping it off for a tune up would mean 2 round trips totaling about 700 miles of driving.

 

Does anyone know anything about a Juki machine, it was passed down to me from friends.

 

Juki`s are an excellent machine. But yours seem to be more of a machine for sewing cloths(industrial home version). A bit of a light weight for multiple layers of vinyl and foam. A good machine to learn on and you will realize the limits it presents. On a good note, it has reverse. The tables are interchangeable with the heavy industrial machines for the most part.

 

Thanks, I need to try it out !

 

Advice, I just acquired a Consew 206RB. I bought the Lucky Needle videos and I just started sewing today and got no where fast. I bent a needle and when I went to change it out the top screw on the needle bar is stripped out. Should I replace the needle bar or cut new threads and use a larger screw, thanks?

 

I would replace it. It probably means there are other issues. I have a feeling you are going to get real familiar with your machine (ask me how I know). But thats a good thing.

 

Lots of good info on Cechaflo's you tube channel on timing and setting up a sewing machine. Should probably start there. https://www.youtube.com/c/Cechaflo/search?query=timing

He is very good at answering questions as well so don't be afraid to ask.

 

Yeah, I was thinking that as well. I saw a video on replacing the needle bar, fun fun. But there are some really good videos on maintenance so hopefully I'll be back in business soon. Also getting a servo motor, but for sure getting it working right first.

 

Ok, so I replaced the needle bar, re-timed my Consew 206RB. Installed a Sewquiet 6000 motor. Finally is stitching without making a birdsnest. But now I can't seem to adjust the stitch length no matter how much I turn the dial. The stitch adjustment lever jumps while stitching, this can't be normal? Please help

 

This is the longest stitch I can make, is this enough?

 

It looks like you are getting about 7.5 stitches per inch. That machine should do 4.5. I could never get mine to go to the longest advertised stitch. But it should go longer. Flip your sample over too. It looks like the tensions are adjusted well but it takes a look on the other side to be sure. What do you mean the stitch lever jumps? What model do you have? the earlier 1 or 2?? or later 5??

Either way check out a video from Ben Jackson June 30, 2016 "adjusting Consew 206RB-5 Forward/Reverse Stitch length" It will give you a real good idea.

 

Thanks for the help, I have the 206RB 1, the chrome reverse lever jumps while the machine is stitching when it's at the longest stitching length, it maybe I just need to tighten the dial, IDK, if that's normal or not. The stitch length is different length from top to bottom stitch. I'll check out this video, thank you.

 

Sounds like the collars inside the machine arent lined up properly. The 5 has a little different adjustment outside the machine but inside its the same. You will see it in the video.

 

I have a CONSEW 226 , what video are you talking about. Thanks Frank

 

My 206RB1 gets 3 stitches to an inch with lever all the way down. Make sure that the shaft of the stitch lever is tight. With the lever adjusted all the way down you’ll see a set screw back in the top of the opening. With a long screw driver tighten the screw. Mine needs to be tightened about once a year.

 

It was loose, I actually had to take the lever off and straighten the shaft as it was binding the dial, thought that would fix it but didn't. QUOTE="jakesbackyard, post: 14175836, member: 28409"]My 206RB1 gets 3 stitches to an inch with lever all the way down. Make sure that the shaft of the stitch lever is tight. With the lever adjusted all the way down you’ll see a set screw back in the top of the opening. With a long screw driver tighten the screw. Mine needs to be tightened about once a year.[/QUOTE]

 

So I watched the video, I know the machines s/b the same inside but I don't have a access door on the back side and I do not see a screw to loosen from the front or from the top.

 

This is the labels on mine and it’s reversible thanks Frank

 

So, I ended buying a new Juki DNU 1541.
It comes with no instructions. I found some videos on YouTube to help me assemble most of it . I still have this piece left. Anyone recognize it?

 

If someone else maybe able to help with this I'd greatly appreciate it. The 206RB5 in the video is not the same (similar) and I can not see an adjustment internally.

 

Anyone use silk film? I was watching some YouTube videos and they say it helps.

 

What is silk film?

 

It’s a super thin plastic that you put between the foam and the cover to make it easy to slide on.

In the residential upholstery business they wrap the cushions in them and use a shop vac to suck out all the air, making the cushion smaller to fit in the new covers.

For our purposes it helps the seat covers slide on and adds a moisture barrier for cars like roadsters that are open to the elements.

I ordered some to try out. We will see. I’ll report back.

 

Interesting but that might hold in water more