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Projects '58 apache - rear axle flip

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2bo.tcb, Aug 24, 2021.

  1. 2bo.tcb
    Joined: Aug 27, 2017
    Posts: 6

    2bo.tcb

    Hi Everyone -
    I am looking to lower the rear of my truck and the axle is below the leaf springs. Is putting the rear axle above the leaf springs as simple as it looks? Is there anything else I need to consider? Does everything just bolt right back up? Does anyone have any experience / photos/ write ups on doing this? Currently have the bed off so that should make this project a little easier. Thanks in advance for any and all feedback!
     

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  2. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,401

    catdad49
    Member

    To get adequate travel, a c-notch would be a good idea. Don’t forget your driveline angles, either.
     
  3. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,401

    catdad49
    Member

    Also, an intro is always nice.
     
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  4. As mentioned, a c-notch is likely needed. Flipping the axle gets you about 6" drop typically (and maybe more considering your spring thickness). Someone recently pointed out that Sid is now making some bolt-in c-notches for those pickups. www.droppedaxles.com

    If you aren't looking for that much drop, there are other ways to lower these as well. I made longer shackles for mine, reversed the spring eyes, and removed a couple leaves if I remember right for around 3 or so inches of drop.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2021
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  5. 2bo.tcb
    Joined: Aug 27, 2017
    Posts: 6

    2bo.tcb

    Thank you! Which drive angles do I need to consider? Wouldn’t this just lower the body, but not change the drive angles?
     
  6. KenC
    Joined: Sep 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,045

    KenC
    Member

    You will be welding new perches on the bottom of the housing so they will have to be set at the correct angle.
    That's a lot of drop, probably over 6". Have you considered the method of front drop to get the stance you are going for? Kind of hard to get a lot of drop in the front, at least without significant expense.

    And to repeat the c-notch advice, without it you won't have any appreciable suspension travel.
     
  7. 2bo.tcb
    Joined: Aug 27, 2017
    Posts: 6

    2bo.tcb

    I do want to drop the front it just feels like the rear is so high I can afford to bring it down that much. You can see in the photos the previous owner added some LARGE coil springs between the frame and axle. This is the stance I’d like to get-
     

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  8. hoop
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 643

    hoop
    Member

    Take out the coil springs that were added to the rear.
     
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  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 55,935

    squirrel
    Member

    It looks like it's had some leafs added, as well. With no bed on the truck, the rear will sit higher now than when you put the bed on it.

    I think that if you do a flip now, without more planning, you might regret it later. Figure out where you really want the truck to sit, and how you'll get the front end there. Then plan the rear drop, accordingly.
     
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  10. Yep, I would get the front where you want it first, then deal with the rear. All the money and complexity is in how you lower the front.
     
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  11. Where are you located? Also an intro can all be done on your profile page. As mentioned, take out the coils added as possible overloads. If you are not hauling any weight remove every other leaf from the spring pack. That alone will gain you about two inches when the bed is replaced and they settle back in. shouldn't need a C notch but may. Flipping the spring perches to the bottom of the rear end housing will cause; C notching the frame, driveline angle corrections, possible cross member drive shaft interference along with a number of issues. Not as easy as seen on TV.
     
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Those coils are just aftermarket overload springs. just unbolt the U bolt lift the frame up high enough that they pop out and call it good. I had a set on my 48 that I would stick in when I was traveling and towing my camp trailer and then pop out for the show and put them back in after the show to tow the trailer home.
    According to the GM Heritage center 59 Chevy truck page (58 didn't show rear springs) the truck should have a 7 or 8 leaf rear spring if it is a 3100 or 3200.

    1959-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf (gmheritagecenter.com)

    Stock floor of the bed on a 58 3100 is a little over 27-1/2 off the ground with stock tires.
    pages (gmheritagecenter.com) scroll down to the diagram that matches your truck.
    That should give you and idea of how much you will need to lower it. I suggest getting the front where you want it and making the rear match stance wise as others said though.

    I can't find the link but I think that there is a kit that lets you raise the spring mounts on the side of the frame to lower the TF trucks without putting the axle on top of the spring. You only get a 2 or 3 inch drop but don't have to notch the frame.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2021
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  13. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,299

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Almost 30 years ago I had an off topic Dodge that I lowered by moving the spring mounts up on the frame. It lowered the rear even with the sagging front so the truck was level. This left me with about five inches of travel and it worked very well. There were no kits for a Dodge at the time.
     
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  14. ...you can change the rear shackle mounts to the top of the frame, bolt em on, then relocate the rearend to the top of the springs, that will lower it about 4-5 inches....no C-notch needed..(.note; mine already had lowering shackles so I also used a 2" block to get the stance I wanted.)( flipping that mount the top of the frame doesn't interfere with the bed or mounts.)
    ...you can re-set the pinion angle before welding your spring saddles to the axle tubes.
    55 Cchev pu 011.jpg 55 chev pu good 005.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2021
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