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Hot Rods The Arin Cee Roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by missysdad1, Jul 10, 2016.

  1. Can I please have the number of the shop that does 5 grand paint jobs?!!
     
  2. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
    Member

    That's the part just below the windshield at the back of the tank. I am prepping the car dry and was curious what grit paper would give me the most "tooth" and yet be smooth once the paint had cured. Turns out 3M 320 dry works just fine...to my surprise!

    I have used black DTM primer, black hi-fill primer and now I'm using black 2-part primer - all chosen to make the red darker as you say and to minimize the ability of stone chips to be noticed when they inevitably happen.

    Thanks for the info and advise. Please continue!
     
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  3. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Ha! I just pulled that number out of my ass so as not to be too high, but I guess I erred on the safe side. I have run and worked in So Cal restoration shops in the past - many, many years ago - and that was what we charged for a best quality single color non-candy paint job AFTER bodywork in 80-grit. That was a fortune then, but we earned every penny of it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2020
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  4. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
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    from Denton

    What brand of Paint are you using, single stage Urethane or 2 stage urethane or acrylic enamel ?
    I like 320 grit under enamel ,but with urethane there is more of a chemical bond so you can go up to 400 because you don’t have to fill in the scratches. Call me if you need me Frank
     
  5. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
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    from Denton

    I hope you have a really good respirator, this catalyzed paint is not to be taken lightly.
     
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  6. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    I am using Eastwood products for the final finish. Even a dummy like me can't mess 'em up. They are formulated for use outside and in crude paint booths. They mix easily, cover well, lay out nicely, flash-off quickly and are as safe as possible. I use a DeVilbiss canister respirator which is among the best available.

    These photos are from this morning. I primered the firewall yesterday in order to give it a nice texture which I will use elsewhere on the car as well, namely on the dash and in the body fender wells. I like this effect very much. I was planning to use flattening agent but this actually looks better in my opinion.

    This is a single-stage material as opposed to color-under-clear or a base coat / clear coat system. I DO NOT LIKE modern candy, metalflake, clear coated paints on hot rods. It's totally a matter of taste, but the modern multi-stage finishes make hot rods LOOK TOO GOOD! Yup, that's my opinion and I'm stickin' to it!
    .

    red roadster 83.jpg View attachment 4712650 red roadster 81.jpg red roadster 82.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2020
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  7. I saw where Missysdad is using a DeVilbiss canister respirator. Can you recommend any other real good ones, just to have choices?
     
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  8. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

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    from Denton

    I love single stage
     
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  9. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    I do too, especially non-metallics. By painting the entire car one panel at a time even a beginner can get an excellent quality paint job with minimal equipment. The learning curve is quick and if you mess up you can sand it and paint it again with no downside. The only caution is that multiple gallons of paint must be intermixed before painting to ensure consistent color from gallon to gallon. Eastwood paint like I am using is identified by "batch" so as long as your paint comes from the same batch intermixing is not necessary. Nice stuff to work with and very forgiving.

    Single-stage paint gives a very utilitarian kind of appearance, not "glamour" as has become popular since the 1960's. If you want glamour, 2-stage paints are the way to get there. But if you are looking for a nice "vintage" finish, single-stage is the only way to go.

    Lots of people and many, many paint shops use clear over the color coat to "enhance the brightness of the color". This has become so common in recent years that many people believe it is "normal". It's not. Straight single-stage paint is not known for its depth or brightness, which is it's beauty to a die-hard traditional rod builder. It is "rich", not brilliant. Big difference.
    .
     
  10. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
    Member

    It's almost time...

    arin cee under cover 3.jpg

    The tub is finally done and the red '30 that was supposed to be a quick fix 'n' flip turned into a two year project...but it's almost completed so it's time for The Arin Cee Roadster project to re-start. (Arin will be thrilled...!)
    .

    arin cee under cover red.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2021
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  11. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,397

    catdad49
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    That tub is looking pretty tasty, too!
     
  12. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Thanks! It's my daily beater. It was originally assembled by Bob Perreault and except for removing the top and hood it still looks pretty much as it did when he had it, but it is vastly improved under the tin...'er, glass. It has taken me a couple of years to get it sorted out the way I like it. For example, I've replaced the engine, transmission, exhaust, rear gears, steering column, front seat and interior, headlights, wiring, shifter, floors, got rid of the humongous long-haul oversize gas tank while also adding the hot water heater from a '47 Plymouth under the dash. And, the rear seat has been removed and replaced by an area designed to hold the clothing, tools, cleaning supplies, folding chair, cooler, etc. in an orderly fashion while leaving lots of room for groceries, parts or whatever I'm hauling on a particular day. In addition to groceries, I have hauled lumber, paint, thinner drums, plumbing supplies, dog food, rusty junkyard bits and even a transmission back there on occasion. So, even though it's a hot rod I use it more like a truck. Thanks again for the kind words.

    phaeton 207.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2021
  13. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 6,397

    catdad49
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    I could use a “truck” like that!
     
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  14. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Back to business...

    This is more or less where the Arin Cee Roadster is today as far as build progress is concerned. You can go back over the previous 10 pages of progress reports to fill in the details. The most important aspect is that this is not going to be a "modern" build in terms of details.

    It will sit higher than most current hot rods and will be un-trendy to the max. But I will let you in on a little-seen-today proportional "gimmick" that you'd never see unless I mentioned it. Study the photo of the radiator shell/headlight and see if you can pick it out before I explain it...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. With the shell set back like that, are you going to have clearance with the engine and radiator to run a fan?
     
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  16. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    I don't want to give away too much here, but the short answer is "yes". I run engine-driven fans on all my hot rods. The secret is to not run engines that tend to overheat. Engines are not all the same in this respect due to engineering and design differences which are massive internally. Detroit employed many methods to keep these chronic-overheating engines cool in their OEM surroundings. Most of these methods are not available in a hot rod. Using an electric fan in a traditional-themed hot rod might move the threshold somewhat but is rarely a true cure.

    But whether it does cure chronic overheating or not is not the issue, keeping the hot rod traditional is the issue and an electric fan isn't and never will be traditional. Back in the day, early hot rods with hard-to-cool engines overheated when the ability of the engine-driven fan to cool them was exceeded. Period. It came with the territory so to speak. So to be true to tradition one has two choices: use an easy-to-cool engine...or put up with occasional overheating. Using an electric fan in a traditional-style hot rod is simply not an option. Thanks for asking.
     
  17. Yep. That's why I asked :)
     
  18. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Well, okay then, it's time to get back to business on Arin's roadster. These photos were taken yesterday, after making a major effort to clear away the clutter and find all the parts which had become scattered over the last few months. I did a light inventory, and while I was at it I changed the details of the concept just a tiny bit. More to come on this as time goes on...

    [​IMG]
    Arin's roadster is at the rear of the shop while the recently-completed red '31 is closer to the front along with my beater '32 tub.

    [​IMG]
    A little dusty but none the worse for wear, Arin's '29 is further along than I'd remembered.

    [​IMG]
    It's almost all old-school and will remain that way during the remainder of the build.

    [​IMG]
    The chassis is done and plumbed and all the sheet metal is fitted. So, next on the agenda is getting it running and repairing the body panels. Onward...
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2021
  19. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
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    from Denton

    Eric I hope you figured a way to cool that place you need one of these. AIR ROVER portable AC .Frank 8C153F43-D9CF-4A4E-829F-B1315B6E4E89.jpeg
     
  20. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Hi Frank! Yep, it's not exactly chilly but it's workable inside the shop at this point. I got the two A/C units working as they should and it's not bad, even today when it's 95* outside. I'm just now working on getting the motor ready to start up and have been fiddling with the Corvette dual-point distributor you gave me. Looks like it's going to be a drop-in-and-go part. Thanks again!
     
  21. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    In the process of prepping the motor for its first start I noticed a small "hitch" in the rotation and tiny sound from the lower end. So I called my good friend Joe Anonymous for a consultation. "Nope, don't know what it is but it can't be started until we figure it out" was the prognosis...

    [​IMG]
    So, out it came and onto the engine stand to be diagnosed.

    [​IMG]
    We also pulled one of my "stash motors" out as a possible replacement.

    [​IMG]
    And then spent hours online looking up serial numbers, casting numbers, part numbers, suffix codes, and all the rest of the stuff we needed to figure out exactly what stuff was in each of the motors. Neither was a virgin as we quickly discovered...
     
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  22. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,982

    97
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    A flathead would never do that to you! The Chevy is unreliable before you even get to drive it ! :rolleyes: you should have stuck with the flathead!:eek::D.
     
  23. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    And so, after opening up both motors I find that there aren't enough parts to make even one good one. Various problems related to use, abuse and improper repair over the years. But the short block of the first motor looks good so far, and it looks to be recently rebuilt. I'll have both motors torn down by later today and will make two piles: one to keep for use in the Arin Cee Roadster motor, and the other to leave at the curb for the scrappers.

    If either of these motors had been good I'd have just cleaned it up, re-sealed it and used it as-is. But that doesn't seem to be the case so the engine plan is evolving as we speak. It would appear that this car is going to get a lot more motor than I'd planned for it...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2021
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  24. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

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    from Denton

    Glad to see you are back on it. Frank
     
  25. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Thanks, Frank. As I explained earlier I can only do one car at a time and the red '31 came along unexpectedly. It started out more of a "fix-and-flip" investment than a project to build and keep for myself. I expected that project to take six months at the outside. Well...it didn't, it took closer to two years because the car was much worse than I'd expected...and because I got caught up in making it nice enough to keep. So, now it's done and I can shift my focus back to Arin's car. Glad you are back to watch it progress.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2021
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  26. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    Third motor, hopefully this one will be a winner. I bought this one in the closing minutes of an automotive swap meet ten years ago or so. I didn't pay much for it and the guy I bought it from delivered it right to my house and even helped me unload it. To be perfectly truthful I bought it to get the chrome valve covers that were on it. The guy wouldn't sell me just the valve covers but insisted that I take the whole thing, or nothing. So here it is, and so far it looks like a really good one...but we've been there before.

    [​IMG]
    Like the first two, this motor has been at the back of my shop for years, just waiting its turn...but for what? Well, I guess we're gonna find out.

    [​IMG]
    Surprisingly, it's pretty clean on the inside for a used motor. But it doesn't seem to have much mileage on it. The really good thing, however, is that it turns easily with no hitches. Which means no stuck valves and no corrosion on the cylinder walls. So far, so good.

    [​IMG]
    The freeze plugs are out and the water jackets look really clean, a good sign that the motor was cared for when it was in use. The suffix code tells me that it's a 327 from a full-size Chevy passenger car of 1962 vintage. Moreover, the same code talls me that it was a high-performance application (4-barrel carburetor and enhanced performance heads) with a manual transmission. My best guess is that this means it came from a '62 Impala Super Sport with a 4-speed. Good news.

    Even more good news is the cylinder heads that are on it. A quick Google search comes back with the following information: "‘58 & up 283 PowerPak/’57-’60 Fuel Inj.,9.25:1 CR, 1.72/1.50 valves, 59cc chamber; could be good replacement on late 305 but no accessory bosses." So...whoever owned this motor put some good heads on it, or kept them on it if they were original on the '62 327 HiPo engines. A little more digging should give up this additional info.

    [​IMG]
    Although the oil separator canister is missing the PCV connection port which was unique to '62 to '67 V8s is still in place. This is really good news because this rare feature makes hooking up the PCV valve much easier and allows the use of valve covers with no breathers. If you've got one of these oil separator canisters and want to sell it, let me know. Looking good so far!

    [​IMG]
    The inside of the motor is almost unbelievably clean, with zero sludge or oil deposits. And...no rust. Once again, this looks really good for a motor that's been in storage this long.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2021
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  27. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    More onfo on the heads on engine #3...
    The casting number tells much more than the symbol on the end of the head, and it's all available online @ NastyZ28.com. (sorry for the upside-down photos...)
    Casting #3795896 tells us that these heads were born on a 1964 high performance 220-horse 283 or a 1964 high performance 250-horse 327 - these heads were used on both engines. They were also used on the 1965 high performance 283 engines, but that's all. Casting date is June 6, 1963.
    These heads have 1.72" intake valves and 1.5" exhaust valves which are only marginally bigger on the intake side than regular low performance heads. The combustion chamber volumn is 59.6cc which in the original application is slightly smaller than standard, giving these engines a slightly higher compression ratio for improved performance.
    Back in the day these were known as "power pack" heads and were quite desireable as a bolt-on performance enhancement for Chevy V8-powered hot rods. Combined with a factory 4-barrel carburetor and dual exhaust these heads would really wake up a standard engine.
    So...what we have here is a '62 high-performance 327 engine with later '64 Power Pack heads, a factory cast-iron 4-barrel intake and a pair of original 1956 cast-iron exhaust manifolds. It would certainly have had a Carter AFB carburetor and possibly a Delco dual-point distributor from a same-year Corvette.
    Nostalgia-wise this would be an ideal engine for Arin's roadster...if it checks out condition-wise as well. We'll see...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  28. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
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    from Denton

    Good for you
     
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  29. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

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    from Denton

    Is it a. Solid Lifter Motor
     
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  30. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,305

    missysdad1
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    No, it's a hydraulic lifter motor - no Duntov 30-30 in this one! I will be using a Comp Cams "Nostalgia" L79+ cam in whichever one of these motors gets built. It's got a very similar sound but it's a modern hydraulic flat-tappet cam that's more streetable than the old solid lifter 30-30. Thanks for asking.
     
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