Projects Belly Tank Build, NZ.

Are you comfy with .063? Seems thinner than I would prefer.

 

Running a hit-and-miss?

 

...at 200 mph it would probably be mostly hits, haha. Not a lot of coasting I would think.

 

Have four wheels will travel, well i pushed it outside to be able to stand back and look at it. I realized i would need some small ramps to get it down the small step to get it out the door, gave it a push and crunch.....need longer ramps, 3rd time lucky! as it stands now it is very easy and light to move. Just got it back inside before a big storm hit. JW

 

Next task is to fit the front radius rods and their chassis mounts, next will be figure out the radiator position and bottom mounts. JW

 

Most aluminum bodies are formed from .063. Have you tried to shape thicker material, especially in compound curves ? As far as the interior liner goes, I try to build the chassis/cage with lots of pipe at different angles to keep the void areas as small as possible. That way the force will be minimal on the sheet metal.

 

1-1/2 HP John Deere.

 

Yeah, it gets funky to shape any thicker. I was just referring to the firewall. I had that all sussed out before we decided to skin this thing with a 27 roadster body!

 

Don't want to hijack the thread (cool build by the way), but @MartyStrode... We need details on this!!!

 

He posted them in one of his build threads.

 

I don't want to hijack this productive thread either, but here are the details. It was a lot of work for the Owner/Builder, Lonnie Gilbertson and myself, that didn't work out. He wanted to go 55 mph, however a major design flaw doomed the project. He needed (X) number of RPM's, the engine wasn't designed with an intake cam or rocker arm, and the valve opens on suction, and is closed by a soft spring. When he increased the engine speed, the intake valve would not seal, pressurizing the carburetor, and with a stiffer spring it wouldn't open. We built the car to handle a Motorcycle engine, and he could have installed one, but chose to sell it to a private museum.

 

Thanks Marty... very interesting. Now back to the regularly scheduled Belly Tank!

 

Squared up the front axle and made sure axle and frame were both level, cut the angle on the front radius rods to match the ''other bit'' and tacked them on then tacked on the chassis mount and yes they are the same side to side. The bolts in the rod ends are just for set up and there will be the appropriate Washers and spacers when finished. Next the lower radiator mounts. JW

 

Made the lower radiator mounts and try fitted, just needs two small gussets on the underside. JW

 

And the test fit. The lower mounts will be 28-48 items and i have no idea what the upper mounts will be yet, will wait and see what else is happening in that area before i commit. JW

 

I hope your using tubing not water pipe

 

I am and as mentioned in post #165. JW

 

Well NZ has just gone into lock down so i will be trying to do as much on my build with what i have on hand. Will see if i can get something done for a worthy update. I feel some template making coming on. JW

 

In looking at the pic of the front suspension I am wondering if Ackerman angle enters into the running of an LSR car. If it is important, your steering arms need to be modified. Maybe it is of little importance since at speed the steering input is rather miniscule. Dunno.

 

Thanks. Probably time to mention that many years ago i qualified as a mechanic and have a good idea of these things. going in a straight line ackeman doesn't come into it and even a few degrees either way will have next to no affect. When i have it ready for finishing they will get bent outward mainly for ease of maneuvering and just because it should be done as close as practical. The top arm will get bent up to parallel to the frame and lengthened to be 90 degrees (or close) to the pitman arm. JW

 

Tacked the radiator mount onto the frame today after i trimmed an inch and a half off the upstands to get it lower to help with the relocation of the lower hose outlet. JW

 

I made some clearance for the new modified radiator outlet in the left engine mount. The drain cock (L/H fitting) will be relocated in the filler piece that will blank off where the old outlet was. JW

 

I cut the outlet off the radiator and found i had a bit of alloy tube the same size and with some pie cuts i made this new outlet. When i get back to work after lock down i will get Todd to do his magic with the alloy welding. With a right angle hose on the water pump it will aim straight down at the new fitting....cool! JW

 

Small update today with a mockup and MDF pattern for the brake M/cylinder. I was going to use a 39-48 Ford M/cylinder as i have one off my RPU and a new one but they are too big inside and out so i went with a 3/4'' trailer item ($41), also using two more for clutch and gas with matching size slave cylinders. I will change the pushrod to a longer one to suit where i mount the brake lever. JW

 

This one is totally different, using "T" rails, but this is how I did the brakes. The 39-48 Ford master is mounted back beside the engine, with a long push-rod extending through the bulkhead panel, to the handle.

 

Nice work.
You should have Todd buzz a hose retention rib around the outer edge of the elbow while he's at it.
But you knew that.

 

Thanks, once its tacked so it cant move i will trim the length (top) and add the original outlet with the hose retention ring. JW

 

All my hydraulic lines (3) will go to ''through chassis fittings'' on the firewall, the only thing moving in the firewall will be the shifter and that will have a fire proof boot. JW

 

Redundancy is good, I would put a fire proof boot on both sides of the firewall. I have been privy to some incident photos dealing with this. Even with the engine behind you it is amazing what fire can do.