Hi All, Looking for a place to have my 50 aligned. Issue is the car is too low to get on the machines around here. I was told there is a place in Plaistow NH. Anyone know where that may be? Or another source.. Thanks, Steve
Lots of modern equipment needs to clamp onto the rear wheel too, and won’t be able to work with his low wheelwells. He needs to find an ancient machine with the plates that the front wheels sit on.
Don't know for cettain, there is an ACME yard w/some equip. Was there in 2012. Couple of 'indepth' body/frame places too.
What you are looking for is an old shop with a front end pit with the short ramps that only extend about five feet from the shop floor that uses a Snap On gauge or one similar and a tape measure or basic toe in measuring setup. What you also need unless the car is subframed or has a MII style front end is someone who actually knows how to align a Shoebox Ford's front end.
Check dealerships and some “fancy” shops. I’ve worked in a bunch of dealerships where the alignment rack is set level into the floor, so no ramps to go up. issue is finding someone who knows how to align your car and if they would even have the specs in their machine . is there any classic car shops or race car builders in your area ? They might know of a shop that can accommodate. A string, tape measure and level will get you close .
I can check the front only on new machines. And set it for a generic measurement. No need to have a car that’s in the software. A lot of shops won’t do custom stuff because that requires more than a “toe and go” I bought a simple caster/camber gauge to set up my suspensions. Super easy to use. No “factory” specs needed. I’ll shoot for around 1/2 degree of camber and I like at least 3 degrees caster. But a bunch of these old rides didn’t have that much. Then set the toe.
Locally, we have an old shop with an old school pit alignment bench. He just aligned my twin I beams. I don’t have the fixture to bend the I beams. Look for that type of shop. But be prepared to pay a little more than the usual set the toe price.
There's a shop like that in town...but the guys who knew how to use the old pit setup in back died long ago. The younger folks use the modern computerized machine up front. And they always have a guy working there who can figure out what the specs should be, if the computer doesn't cover it.
Can be done on several sheets of paper. Amazing how easy they turn on slick magazine sheets. Magnetic caster/camber gauges are not expensive, maybe even cheaper than some alignment shops.
I didn't think of the dealership in an older building (older as in over 50 years as a dealer shop) thing. the Pontiac dealership I worked at in Waco and the Chevy dealer in Sunnyside Wa both had the pits rather than front end racks. The pits took up a lot less room in the shop when you didn't have a car on the rack. You can check the caster and camber with a 13 dollar gauge from Ebay after the wait for it to show up and a tape measure and #2 pencil for the toe in checking.
I have Jamco front end and also rebuilt the steering box then set the toe. Car drives ok but just not seem to be just right. I took it to an alignment shop but was told the rear end is too low to get the alignment piece that attaches to the rear wheel. Guess I am stuck..
I spray some Gibbs or WD40 on a trash bag, then fold it over on itself a few times and set the front tires on them... Works like a charm. Chappy. I did the alignment on my '30 and my OT spitfire with 4 jack stands, 2 pieces of string and a machinist ruler... 1000's of miles on both with no uneven tire wear... Chappy
Another member posted about this unit which I purchased and have been very happy with the results. Also, I have used the Speedway gauge with good results. Together the cost was around $300, but having several hot rods, it has more than paid for itself, plus I do loan it to other car guys. Bob
Look for an old shop that has a alignment pit. https://www.bing.com/images/search?...ndex=0&idpp=overlayview&ajaxhist=0&ajaxserp=0
Find an old truck shop. I worked in one that had the recessed pits. 2 were for cars, the other 3 did light and heavy trucks.
5-7 was what we looked for in a straight axle set up. 3-5 for IFS.(caster) if possible, depending on driving intentions.I don’t think we ever went past 5 for IFS Camber for for IFS ranged from 0 to -1/2 Camber for a straight axle? Well, whatever the axle was set at. If one side or both was what we thought was too much, we sent em to a truck shop.(one that we knew was damaged anyway) The fun part about doing it yourself is that you can watch changes through articulating the suspension. Or changing ride heights.
If it is this one 1949-53 Ford Deluxe Ultra Cruise Kit W/ Tubular Arms | Jamco Parts | Hot Rod Brake Parts and Suspension Parts | Hot Rod Brake Parts & Suspension Parts | Jamco Parts (jamcosuspension.com) It should adjust with shims between the control arm shaft and the bracket. That's not rocket science and doesn't take a trip to the guy with special equipment. It just takes a trip to the guy who can think and then adjust a very simple setup. If someone can align a late 60's Chevelle they can align that front end. You do most likely need someone who has a magnetic gauge similar to the one in post 22 that sticks on the hub. Reason being, a lot of the newer computer alignment setups have bulky units that attach to the wheels. They just won't clear and I'd guess that many of these "techs" have never used a magnetic gauge even though the guy who sold the equipment to the shop told the owner/purchaser that it was just as accurate as a SnapOn gauge. As I have said on here at least 20 times you don't need that fancy bracket piece that you fasten to the wheel to check/set toe in. All it really does is keep your wife from griping because she has to get down on the shop floor and hold the other end of the tape to the line you marked on the center of the tread and then hold it the same way at the front of the tire. As far as settings start with 1/2 degree positive on the left wheel (drivers side) and 1/4 positive on the right or passenger side with 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 degrees positive caster. 1/4 more positive camber in the drivers side wheel usually compensates quite well for the crown on most two lane roads unless you live in an area where it rains like a cow peeing on a flat rock more often than not. Then set the toe in at 1/8 in. 2-1/2 positive is what mid 70's Monte Carlos are set at compared to 1 to 1=1/2 for a regular Chevelle or that size of car. That is because they were built to spend more time in the fast lane than cruising around town. I was talking with one of my former high school auto mechanics class students at the barbershop today about a father and son combo who owned a brake, front end and muffler shop here in town for a lot of years and did great alignments with nothing more than a magnetic gauge a good tape measure and the pencil to mark the center of the tread to check toe in. They set the Camaro clip under my 48 to my specs when I didn't have access to a front end rack and on a road trip to Texas two days later i could go for about two miles hands off going across southern Idaho on the long straight stretch.
I have set the toe @ 1/16th. Caster and camber I have not yet worked. My Jamco front end kit is an older one using dropped spindles with king pins. Came from another car that the owner had decided to switch to Fatman setup. My car drives ok but sometimes seems to want to wander. Not bad but just does not seem to be just right on.
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