Technical Muncie 4-speed linkage issue

Hi All,

I have a relatively new to me 1967 coupe with a 326 and 4-speed muncie. When I got the car, it always had sloppy shifting. It was easy to go into reverse when I thought I was in first. It sometimes get into a position were it was not in gear but the linkage would get stuck. I would have to reach underneath the car and start pulling on the shift linkage to get it un-stuck.
I finally got underneath and pulled out the linkage. The linkage does not have any kind of identifying marks, is it an after market clone? Did the factory shifter have muncie engraved or some way to identify it? The shift handle does say Mr. Goodwrench? It is not a Hurst shifter as it does not have their logo or u-bolt clamp. The linkage rods and transmission arms do have p/n stamped into them. The linkage had a mixture of cotter pins and the round shaped pins.
I am not sure what I have and if it can be rebuilt? I have never driven another muncie car so I do not really know what the shifting should feel like. At this point, I am not sure if the linkage is worn, or miss adjusted. The guy I bought the car from said he had someone adjust the linkage before he sold me the car. Would a Hurst shifter solve my problems?
Thanks, kind of a long post.
skipper

 

See the 1/4" hole in the levers, that line up with the little notch in the housing? When it's in neutral, you put a 1/4" rod through all the holes, so they align. Then adjust each linkage rod so it fits freely into the hole in the arm.

If the bushings at the ends of the linkage rods are worn, you can buy replacements.

If the shifter itself is sloppy inside, you're probably going to be better off buying another shifter.

 

It looks like a no-name Hurst clone. Are you sure it doesn't say Mr Gasket?

 

You are correct, it is Mr. Gasket. It does look like a Hurst but there is not identification, the handle says Mr. Gasket. I see summit sell a reproduction muncie shifter with shifter and linkage. The Hurst is more than double the cost, is it twice as good as the munie shifter?

 

Hurst is the best....

 

Hurst is the only way to go, well worth the increased cost.

 

when I bought a new Hurst Competition Plus in 1979, the $100 I paid for it was a LOT of money! The cost is nothing new...

it sure worked well, though.

 

If you buy the best, you only have to spend the money once.

 

I would try a $10 bushing kit and adjustment before buying a new shifter.

 

The original shifter was a round stalk/lever with a two finger "tee" that was lifter to access reverse gear. The shift knob was relieved to allow the tee part to lift up and bottom out against the shift knob, for lack of a better description the shift lever stalk appeared to be one diameter all the way up.

 

The Summit shifter was not a very good piece. My sone bought one when I forgot I had a bunch of Hursts and parts for them.

 

It looks like the stop bolts may have been changed, compared to a Hurst of course. Try to find part numbers on the shifter body, the internets may have some good information, granted that Hurst info is more prevalent.

Do the 1/4" alignment first, be damned if I can ever find the pin they supplied with new shifters, I use a piece of round stock. New steel bushings and clips of course.

 

In my experience the stock muncie shifters were junk, Replaced with Hurst on two off topic Chevelles and never had any more problems with shifters locking up.

 

Allen wrench or drill bit.

 

I purchased a Hurst Competition shifter and shift rods. The Mr.Gasket shifter I removed did not have a bracket like the Hurst. I think it may flex more and put things out of alignment. I got the linkage jammed once when I was driving up a drive way at an angle. I think the suspension and frame was twisted as one wheel was going up the drive way and I tried to shift gears. The body may be had some twist and with the flex in the shifter, perhaps misaligned things. After that I did not try to change gears when driving up a drive way at an angle. The Hurst is pricey for my budget but it will worth it I don't have to worry about the linage jamming up or shifting into reverse instead of first.

 

My manual trans cars only get a Hurst Comp Plus. I've had 4 of them. I always replace the plastic linkage bushings with the steel upgrade ones. Check out: shifterdoc.com

 

Drove nearly 120 k miles with my gm/ Muncie shifter in my 65 impala only thing that went wrong is the reverse lockout cable needed to be replaced at about 80k miles ! You did need to keep it clean & lubricated.