What do you guys use for inner door insulation? The stuff in mine, that is mostly peeling off, is kind of a tar coated 1/8" thick material. Not sure how to get any new stuff in there either as there are only a couple rectangular openings to get in there. I stole this picture from @Country Joe. It's a Chevy door, but has the same design as my 47 Olds
if that was my door id want to clean up the inside of the door before insulating it can you get your hands inside to sand everything with rough sandpaper.maybe you could remove the old insulation with a sharp filling knife.hoover inside using a garden hose taped to the hoover hose..clean out with white spirits and a sponge/cloth. IMO POR15 is great stuff for rusty jobs.apply with a small roller and a cranked brush.id pay special attention to the openings you have sand /file to make sure theres no sharp edges there.after a few days when the paint is well hard id apply seam sealer around the sides and bottom of the door. with your fingerwear quality gloves.the por15 dont come off your hands for a long time ,neither does the seam sealer.TIGER SEAL,is my choice.when all the seam sealer is applied tidy it up with a damp sponge.be as neat as you can. now insulation.i bought a box of 2mm foiled back insulation .the insides of my truck cab is all curves and it stretched well i applied 2 layers of 2mm.it was foil backed tar type insulation with 1 sticky side.sheets were something like 17" x 11".i used a sharpie for marking the foil,cut with a utility knife and a metal straight edge on a sheet of timber.1 layer is the way to go 3 or 4mm thick.cut the sharp edges off the sheets when they are going into the bottom corners sharp sticky edges will snag and make a mess. if the sheets are 11" theres nothing stopping you cutting the sheet into 2/17 x 5 1/2" strips.it will turn into a tiling type job.if you decide on half sheets to start alloy say 5 1/2" plus 3/4 .measure up 6 1/4 inside the door.mark it both sides .lay on some masking tape to use as a guide to keep the sheet straight as you lay it on .give it a trial run with the backing on and trim as necessary.when i was laying on trickey pieces i cut the backing lightly before pulling it off and reapplying it to the insulation.it comes off easier second time around.your insulation should go in the opening for the glass or through the access holes .end part 1
laying on your first strip cut away the backing from the top 1/2 " of the sheet.lay it on with only the 1/2 "strip exposed .i found the insulation stretched to suit the shape of the door .you could cut the backing again in half on the bench.only peel it off when you are going to stick that section.i used a roller to apply the insulation but you can firm it on with your fingers as well.it will get easier as you go.if you get some trapped air stick the blade in it to release the air.measure twice cut once .trial run each piece with the backing on.good luck.your doors will close much better with the added weight and sound quality to boot.hold the 3/4 margin up the sides of the door as well.end part 2
That is a great reply, nunattax! Thank you. I plan to do the clean up and POR 15 method, but do you remember what the name of the foil back insulation is?
https://carsoundsolutions.com/product/3mm-vibrofiltr-sound-deadening-mats/ .i used a 2mm version of this with great results.i had good access in my doors and applied 2 layers followed with a 6mm foam heat insulating layer.dont dynamat do an insulation with sound and heat insulation in the one sheet might suit your application.its money well spent in my opinion.turned my cab from sounding like an empty busicut box into a more comfortable quieter cab.doors sound much better.thing is its easy to get used to the benefits ,you soon forget what it used to sound like cheers chris
i used the roller they sold.had 1 problem with it though the nut on the end worked loose never to be seen again.had another in stock luckily it was metric .loctited the nut this time didnt loose it again.hah
pic of my door as you can see good access here.after the first layer.i was carefull not to block the drain holes in the bottom of the door and left a route for rainwater to escape from the central brace too . inside of my door never saw paint from new ,the por15 is a great improvment. also i inverted the door to do a thorough job on the bottom of the doorwhere the door skin turned around the bottom of the door it was a perfect water trap. i sealed the gap leaving room for the water/condensation to escape either side .just apply what is needed and remove the excess with a wet gloved finger .dont expect to get it done in an afternoon itll take more time than you think.
Thanks for all the info, nunattax, it is a big help. Now just have to figure out how to get my hands inside the door with those small openings!
Instead of the mat type insulation? That is a great idea. I was actually thinking along those lines, but forgot about Lizard Skin. I was thinking of something like truck bed liner, but this would be better I think.
They make some asphalt remover products but some are pricey. I'd get a few boards and make a wooden frame. Use some old 2x4s and sit them on some cinder blocks in the shape of a square or rectangle bigger than the door. Then put a plastic tarp in it with the tarp draped over the boards. Attach the tarp so it doesn't slip down, and fill it with diesel fuel. Put the door in it and let it soak. Might have to let it soak a few days. Then wash it out with a garden hose and soak it a little more. When its done, siphon the fuel out and put it in a 5 gallon bucket to use for cleaning other parts.
Good idea to mount the door on a sheet of plywood.screw some wooden blocks to the sheet to stabilizer the door so it can't move about when ure working on it.throw an old sleeping bag or blanket under the door.you will free up the other hand during work
I use Frost King foil/foam duct insulation. Self adhesive, and dense gray foam backed. Use it for floors, ceiling, and inside doors. But be sure everything is very clean, so it has a good chance of sticking where you put it! Comes in 12"x 15' rolls at Home Depot, or Lowes, and about $18 a roll. No bad smell, and works great! https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-...W_eRwmbb4XeRERCmNnBoCAEwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I already pulled out the old tar insulation. Most of it was falling off, so it didn't take much effort to remove the rest! I've been reading up on the Lizard Skin. It seems like there is a DIY alternative using latex paint and microspheres and applied with a cheap undercoat gun.
use sound deadening material Do the math on the sqft there is also this stuff. This is 9 large pieces. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Sound-Deadener-29-5″-9-Piece/dp/B07XMDTTR2 The Home Depot stuff is ok but it will be a bunch of small strips about 12” wide. Both dense. I have not installed the blue stuff yet. but compares to the dynamat and the lizard skins. Amazon blue sound deadener Some people say to seal the putter edges with some foil aluminum tape.
Having worked with a lot of the self stick stuff, I can tell you it would be a major pain to install through those two small holes on that inner door panel. The stuff sticks to everything you don't want it to as your trying to get it into tight places. You have to use both hands to get it into place inside of that door. Then, if you manage to get it close to where you wanted it, for it to work properly, it has to be rolled tightly against the outer door skin before it will permanently stick. You will have to get your hand and a good share of your arm into the door far enough to roll the material tight. I would suggest some sort of spray cleaner to be sure the surface on the outer skin inside of the door is clean and dry. Then you will probably want to be sure any place you need to mount window, or door operating equipment, or window tracking, or weather-stripping, gets taped off before you spray the inside of the door. Then spray an insulation/sound deadening material like Lizard Skin on the outer door skin. The spray insulation will be a big enough pain, but would be rather simple compared to the peal, stick and roll tight stuff is inside of a door. Gene
i had a mild rubber/tarry smell for a short time from the insulation but it soon faded away when i left the windows open,similar to the smell from the drying POR 15 and the TIGER SEAL seam sealer.
In my climate I would be real wary of any foil sheets on the inside of the door skin. As much rain and wetness as we get, my concern would be water getting trapped between material and the metal. Thus, causing rust out. This is the same reason it's a bad idea to tarp a car outside. The tarp just holds the water in. Since water runs down the door glass.....It just seems like a bad idea. The original material was like undercoating. That asphalt stuff was applied/spayed on the inside of the door. It's a coating, not something stuck to the door. The heavy paints.... liquid bedlinder... heavy latex.... seam sealer... Coatings like this may be much better than a waterproof piece of material (like foil) that could trap water in an area that sees so much water. I would use a coating and make sure the door drains are clear. Now there's places that foil stuff is great but I would not put inside a door. It would probably be wonderful under the door panel but that's not inside the door.
id agree with your concerns thus the rust proofing paint is critical.the adhesive insulation i used was extremely sticky no chance of removing it .keeping the drain holes clear is important and garaging the vehicle when not in use.
Clean as much as you can. Ive used thinned down primer, lay the door flat and swish it around to coat everything, stand the door up and let it run out the drains, keep clearing the drains as it dries. Insulation, with so little access, a spray on will work best. The OEMS use stick on insulation panels, ( not full coverage) stating that deadens the drumming noise inside a door or panel. So its worth a shot. A sheet of the Lobucrod (bubble foil) type insulation behind the door panel helps quite a bit too.
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