Just wondering if I can cap the in/out on the block or if it needs the loop to adequately circulate coolant. It's just on a 230 straight 6 if that matters. Thanks!!
The water pump has a bypass hole in it, so it should circulate just fine if you block the heater hose fittings.
Many vehicles of that era had a valve in the hose to control the heater output. Blocking it shouldn't be an issue.
Just plug them. A lot of these engines were used for industrial applications that didn't have heaters.
This is only applicable to the '62-65 first-gen small-block Ford V8 front dress, but on these the heater hose connection on the water pump is cast-in on the pump and not removable. But as it so happens, the ID of the cast hole is almost exactly the same as needed for a 1/2-20 tap. The hole is a bit large at first, but gets smaller further in so tapping it deep and using a 1"+ bolt with a liberal application of pipe sealant will seal it. No drilling needed. Use a standard pipe plug at the intake. If you want to add the heater later, just remove the bolt.
off topic but guys are using computer 12v fans in the hotrod heaters, they are slow and don't pull much voltage... any small core and a comp fan will fit in almost any vintage heater... usually we only want to clear the w/s not melt 1/2" of ice off it...
230 being mid 60's Chevy six? It may depend on if the water pump you have has a threaded heater hose fitting in it that you can replace with a plug.
I highly recommend NOT to use the rubber caps they sell at most parts stores, unless you are really diligent about upkeep because you will have to change them every year.
They have run the rubber hose fitting caps on this one for as long as I have been taking photos of the car. This was in Yakima today. I'm pretty sure the car was in Pendleton in 106 degree heat last week without issue., Car issue, it may have had a roasted driver. I agree that those caps need to be changed out on a regular basis but that goes for the radiator hoses too.
the hoses are reinforced, two layers of rubber...the cap is made of a single layer of whatever they make them of that day, wherever it's made. I'd use a short length of hose and make a plug with a bead on it, on the lathe....but I do some strange things.
In that case I'd just loop a short piece of hose between the two fittings. and be done with it. Been there, done that on the 250 in my 48 when the heater core decided to see how wet it could get the floorboard.
Had those on my roadster. When I traded it off my son saw the rubber was cracked somewhat. Less than a year on the car.
I bought an aftermarket rad (new) for my 80's G-body and it came with an extra spout on the rad and a rubber cap to plug the spout if it wasn't needed. I used the supplied cap and it failed within the first three months. It literally crumbled to pieces. Complete garbage.
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