Technical Epoxy then Filler Then More Epoxy?

I shot my car with epoxy and started doing the filler. During the process I broke through the epoxy. After I am done in the area would it be a good idea to reshoot another coat of epoxy? I am going to be taking my time so it will be in this state for a little while before it gets the high build. To keep the filler and metal dry I thought it would be a good idea.

 

It never hurts to put epoxy on bare metal...

 

I did epoxy over the bare sand blasted body, then all my filler work, then hit all the filler and any bare metal spots with epoxy again. One coat of high build primer, blocked it all down, then sealed the whole deal with epoxy, then color.

Right or wrong, that's how I did mine.

 

International...
Had a 41
Killer truck's

 

I always thought filler should be on the bare metal, so it got more grip into the sanding marks.

 

I've heard both theories. Filler to direct metal for grip and also epoxy first then filler to prevent oxidation on metal.under filler allowing it to pop.

 

Several threads on this if you'd care to follow up, for your reading pleasure.

 

Just found this on PPG's website

 

I’ve never had an issue with filer on bare metal or epoxy.
Edit. If the epoxy is cured enough. I’ve seen polyester filler trap solvents causing the epoxy to stay soft
This has only happened when the polyester filler was applied over epoxy within a few hours of the epoxy being sprayed.
I will wait until the next day before I apply any polyester products over epoxy.

 

I went to bare metal, then shot epoxy, then did the filler where needed, and shot with more epoxy. Then high build primer and sanded. Then my paint.

 

After reading this it sounds like maybe filler over bare metal is the way it was done for older style lacquer or enamel and filler over primer is the way it's done now with epoxy primer. I've never used epoxy but maybe I should get with the times lol.

 

For collision work it’s not used with epoxy. (Unless an OE specifies it)
But modern high end fillers do not require bare metal. 80 grit DA over factory paint then filler is the norm.
I do like the idea of long term repairs like the stuff we do using epoxy. Saves a lot of time from sanding off rusty hand prints

 

I work so slow, letting the epoxy cure is never a problem. After a few days of bodywork I need to walk a way for a while, anything bare gets epoxied.

 

Be very careful using information based on a specific product as a generalized guide for what is acceptable practice. Not all epoxies can have polyester applied over top of them. This one for example says you can use filler an hour after application. One hour of dry time before applying polyester over the vast majority of epoxies is going to end in disaster. Unless specified, like this example, epoxies need to be left for a minimum of 24hrs before trying to apply a polyester based product over top. The only accurate information about what is compatible is on the TDS of the epoxy you are using. Read them!

 

K 13 gives EXCELLENT advice.
Not all Epoxies are created the same.

VR&C.