Projects Engine and pinion angle question 39 Ford SBC

I have been looking at side mounts. Am quite confused about what is best for them. Should these be rubber mounted or solid?
If rubber would they actually offer any support? As the mount would move up and down independent of the frotn and back mounts.

If solid then the whole thing rests on the mid mounts and as the front and back move up and down would create stresses in engine trans joint.
I guess only an engineer could answer that one..

 

thanks will do

 

Thanks great info!

 

Did you have to cut the floor trans cover or modify the firewall?

 

No modification to firewall or to floor except a hole for the shifter in the trans cover. My engine mounts are on the side of the block and use the original Ford style biscuits with a vertical through bolt. There is very little ,if any, movement.

 

here is a pic of the floor with the trans in. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ivor-40-coupe-build-fired-it-up.944754/page-6 . I did trim the floor for the shifter; it was a little more than I remembered.

 

If you are using the intake carb flange that is incorrect...use the trans output for sure...or if needed use crank front or possibly flexplate

 

Buy a cheap angle finder. Thos measurements mean nothing. Your Hurst mount is fine but you need a Mid mount at the rear of the block if you use it.

 

The CEnter Line of trans out put shaft usually winds up really close to the top of the frame on the 35-40 frames.
It’s hard to tell because of camera angles and such but yours looks like it’s well below

 

Looks like that is because he has the engine slammed back and the Hurst Saddle mount is hitting the front crossmember forcing the front of the engine up and the output shaft down.

 

The Hurst mount I took out of my ‘36 PU had a U shaped piece laying sideways between the mount and the biscuits, I think raised it roughly 1-1.5 inches? Don’t recall, been 30 years.

 

Using CE stuff.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Do you know what the chassis side of these sit on? Rubber or straight on steel?

 

Yes mine is well below. I am pretty sure I will lift up the back end of the transmission as far as it will go without touching the top of the tunnel

 

Thanks for the pics.

 

Do you have a recessed firewall or original?

 

Shim the rear trans mount til you get what you need.

 

It's original 40 pickup, I think the firewall is different on the cars.

 

It's hard to see in Marty Strode s picture, but the drivers side block mount is made to move the frame mount forward and this leaves more room for exhaust routing on that side. I predict that everything on the trans/engine install will be easier and work better with the C.E. kit.

 

I chose to use fenderwell headers, to simplify exhaust, steering column etc, plus hopefully get less cabin heat.

 

I like +2deg and -2deg. Also 9in pinion offset adds another angle to inspect if engine centered. U joints must have motion or at 0 deg, they brinell.

 

Hi
Ride height has not much to do with this particular angle as as centerlining front/rear axle . I try to stay away from using ride height as a base I may be picky but I know it's right . I tie a line to both axle centers to start . Question can you modify the center plate or mount it any different ? Are you running 4 link or dual leaf ? I bolt flanges can be milled and you would have a perfect nest for the dif at the angle of your choice so the former suggestion is the one I'd attempt

 

Even though the motor is not bolted with mounts something doesn't look right with the way it is set in the chassis. I have a Hurst mount in my '40 pickup and if I get a chance tomorrow I will get some photos and measurements and post them.

 

I like this diagram. GM built countless cars with the pinion down because it works with the rear suspension. The rear end rotation axis is usually in front of the axle so the pinion angle decreases with the axle moving up.
With the pinion up, The pinion angle decreases but the trans angle increases so they are not parallel anymore.
A better design is with both angles down and equal with the rear end rotation axis near the center of the driveshaft.
I think that is why All 57 chevys had the same tranmision length. Even the short 3 spds. When they went to the three piece driveshafts, they could put the short tailhousings on the 58's. Wonder why the Cad/LaSalle tranmissions had a tailhousing so long?

 

I’m that GM example
They purposefully needed a center bearing
The engine/trans and center bearings become motionless and irrelevant.
However angles noted B C are what’s important. Let the minds eye sub the trans yoke for the center bearing

 

Bad day at the hobby shop, will try to get photos Monday