Hot Rods 1954 Corvette V8 Conversion

Well Trent, did the mechanic give you a “health” report on the engine?

It’s been mentioned I’m sure, but …

intake vacuum at idle and then again at say 2500 RPMs.

Dwell setting, plug gap and what they looked like. I could go on, but just home from my night shift and will start babbling soon.

But think about this

Cost of an engine. You mentioned a 265 or 283. A fresh one is most likely not available, so several months in the machine shop.
Then there’s the exhaust, what’s needed and has to be done for it to swap in.
Will you need a carburetor, distributor? You will need a fuel pump, all accessories and brackets for the V8 to work.
Is the radiator adaptable to the V8?
Then there’s the fuel line routing.

Wiring should be okay.


Now I understand your grandfather is 80, he might recall the day when it was common and a weekend thing to go find a low mileage 265/283 and do a weekend thrash and have some fun.

He has 20 years on me and I recall those days as well too. But everything we needed was available at the local yards and wasn’t that old when we used it.

I’d bet you’d be into 5k bill minimum, to swap a V8 into that car, and it would be 2022 before it was on the road.

Maybe let folks know what area you’re from and some guys might know who you should contact to get it running right, or at least tell you what the issues are and how or if they can be dealt with. Heck. The engine may be dead. It is near 70 now.

Night, er,… morning?

 

Try corvetteforum.com c1/c2 section. There are a lot of knowledgeable people there on both tuning and 54-V8 swaps

 

Seems the op's grandpa is set on the V8 swap, replicating a car from his past.
At 80 years old, my guess he's set in his ways (okay stubborn), I am at 65.
Good advice from scotty t with his link to the Corvette site.
Good luck on the swap.

 

Not going to get into an argument about whether or not to swap engines; not my business.

But concerning the original triple carb six running rich:

Three major possibilities:

(1) Electronic distributor conversion without upgrading to an alternator!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(2) Parts house carb kit (fuel valve orifices too large)
(3) Electric fuel pump (too much pressure for stock orifices)

Now if you combine any two, or worse, all three.........................

The Carter YH carbs, if properly rebuild and adjusted, run great AND are reliable.

Jon.

 

Been years since I have heard a real corvette Blue Flame running. Sweet sweet sound!!!

 

WTF

 

Had very little time on first post. Adding to that post:

In the 1930's Carter developed a "spring-loaded needle and seat" for both off-road and marine use. The original Carter YH number 2066s carbs used fuel valve number 25-228s which is one of the special spring-loaded versions.

The seat is the same as a normal seat, but the needle has a small vertical hole machined into the top into which an even smaller conical spring is inserted. Sitting on top of the spring is a pin that resembles a miniature golf tee. The spring tends to cause a much more even fuel level in the bowl.

Not saying they do not exist, but I have yet to see one of the cheap FLAPS rebuilding kits that contain the spring-loaded fuel valves; as they are significantly more expensive to produce than the standard fuel valves. These are absolutely critical in the YH, OR the carburetor WILL flood.

Even if the proper fuel valves are used, another problem which may arise with someone not familiar with these. When the spring-loaded valve is used; the float MUST be adjusted by taking the measurement with only the weight of the float pressing on the spring. The spring MUST NOT be depressed by the "mechanic's" finger. Obviously, spring fatigue would result in an incorrect fuel level.

Since the YH is a horizontal carburetor, absolutely essential that correct parts are used, and correctly adjusted.

Jon.

 

@carbking Thanks for that information, Jon. It's great when experts can give insight into things, most of us would miss.

 

@carbking

this guy knows !!!!!

keep that sweet sweet 6 in there !

I had a 3 carb split exhaust 261 with a solid lifter cam in it and a 5 speed .
Still my favourite combination.


I’m 100% biased to inline 6’s

 

Friend of mine cured a lot of the carb problems on his 54 when he installed a pressure regulator on it. Most of the time before that his problems were due to lack of driving the car. He sold the car after owning it for many years and bought a 32 five window. Drives the snot out of that one! D

 

They had a choke that had one pull mech. on them connected to three cables.

 

I like the reply of a built 261 for it!

 

I'd second the motion to send the carbs to Carbking and have him go through them.

Or at least pony up and buy the correct kits from him. I've used at least one of his kits and there a difference than what you get from the parts house.

As far as the swap, As a couple of the guys have said, it can be done using almost all "original style" parts and outside of a couple of small things would be reversible in the future if someone felt the need. Grandpa's car and if he wants to cut the value by a bunch so he can enjoy it the way he wants to so be it.

 

I just answered the post. Another guy is working on this one. BTW, I forgot to add that I modified the choke cables on my friends car. Originally the three cables came together in the center of the choke pull. Even lubed real well they were a bitch to pull on or push off. It helped if you pushed down on the gas pedal taking the tension off of the idle cams. I separated the cables and made a couple of plates to attach them to the push/pull mechanism, worked much better and still looked correct from the dash side.

 

If all new members would indicate where they're located they may be able to find local experienced help. I also would send the carbs to carbking for a quality rebuild. But only after the engine was determined to be healthy. There are so many variables that can effect reliably that any one malfunctioning will cause problems. Good luck to you and your Grandpa

 

Yeah no you really didn't, the competent part. Even if there's something esoteric with the carbs he wasn't comfortable working on he should have been able to diagnose the problem. And I wouldn't bet $100 it's in the carbs, or it could be as simple as a piece of debris under one needle.

When you say it starts fine then when does it start running poorly? Will it idle indefinitely? Is the problem time dependent, heat dependent, or engine load dependent? Let's do some actual diag here.

 

OK - PLEASE DON'T send the carbs to carbking!

Thanks to all for the recommendation, but far too busy with the manufacture of rebuilding kits to still rebuild carbs.

We simply do not rebuild carbs any more.

We can virtually always supply a kit made in the USA (by us); we generally have other parts not contained in the kit, and the tech advice is free; but NOT doing carbs.

Jon (carbking).

 

I've only done this 3 times so bear with me. There may be someone out there that can add to this. You will need a steering box spacer between the box and frame. The motor mount towers will need tabs welded to the frame to attach them to. Then you can use the later engine mount between the water pump and block . The fuel pump will clear the frame without the relief. You'll need a V8 radiator and shroud. You'll need to do a few minor mods to fit them. You might need to clearance the hood, it has a support right where the air cleaner lands. Transmission kickdown linkage will need to be V8 style. Might as well change to 12 volt system too. Meaning starter, generator, bulbs and fuel gauge. The oil pressure and the water temp is mechanical so they will work but you will need a 55 intake manifold with the sender port in the left rear corner. The amp gauge will be fine as will the heater motor. You'll need to fab in later model throttle linkage. And lastly a 55 style exhaust system. So it's kind of a big deal, but not to big.

 

The most important item will be the CorVette side trim….. need to see the big Vee…

 

Let see. Install a carb kit or install a whole new engine. Decisions, decisions.

 

With all the Corvette Experts on here. NOT ONE of you mentioned the all important Steering Box Spacer that that moves the box out away from the frame rail and gives clearance for the left exhaust manifold. The spacer came in the 55 V8 and later Vetts

 

Just a quick update, the V8 conversion process has begun. The original 6 will be kept with the car and could easily be reinstalled. It will be replaced with a 283 with a 4 inch bore, big heads, and dual 4 barrel carburetors. Thus simulating the 55 corvette my grandpa drove in high school. Some tear down on the in-line 6 can be seen here before engine removal.

More updates to come…
TR

 

Man, I'm generally one of the guys that is all for doing whatever to whatever, but this gives me agita High pressure game here, it's gotta be right. That said, it takes BALLS to tear apart a $100,000+ car like this.. For better or for worse I'll be watching this thread and hoping for the best.

I just happened to see a 54 at a local cars and coffee this past weekend. Same engine and carb package with a glide behind it. Owner was nice enough but was anal retentive about marks on push/pull cables and the orientation of a spinner on the hubcaps. He also seemed very proud that his car was made in early 54 and still had 53 date codes on the tail light lenses (apparently since they used stuff left over).

You know, after reminding myself of that interaction with that restoration guy, on second thought, enjoy your V8 swap haha.

 

X2 to what Jim Dillion said. Not sure but you might have to add nuts to the frame for the motor mount towers to bolt to.

 

I'm really torn on this one. Not that it matters, I'm just some guy on an internet forum. But dang.. carb rebuilds or an engine swap? I'm all for more power but in a 54 Vette? Maybe I need to sell my hot rods and join the AACA.

But I hold to the principle that it's your car, do what you want and good luck!

 

I fully support this. The only thing that could make it better is to put a 4 speed in it too!