I just picked up and interesting tool Friday that is more for the mill, a Bison Shaft Holding Machine Vise in nice tight condition- makes you think- I can bolt that to the 12" Pratt n Whitney rotary table and cut this way, that way, jeez...
I want to put it on lockable wheels. The stand has four 1 1/4 schedule 40 pipes that are not threaded. Anybody have a good source for inserts into the pipe with a caster hole for the wheels. Mcmaster has them but want an arm and a leg for them. Is theer a Casters R US???
What I have found is that attending auctions at manufacturing closedowns, and searching facebook for oddball stuff will often yield some contraption that has really good casters on it, and maybe other usable parts that can be removed. Haven't been to any auctions lately, but I have a bunch of things I have put on wheels that I got for "little to nothing" that way. I'm talking about quality wheels that you would never buy on your own. School auctions often have some too.
Old HD casters are usually very different than new stuff- when I built my test/breakin stand, I had an old HD warehouse cart to start with, and the cast iron casters were very tight, with grease fittings on the wheels and the rotation. Got a simple stand from Stumpy's, and it fit perfectly on the cart, 4 holes and done
Found a place this Am that had what I was looking for. Try service caster in Reading PA. Great selection with reasonable prices and actually talked to someone to help place the order.
I have a very basis lathe problem. I Don't know what I'm doing. I have been given a made in Korea South Bend lathe and I have the "How to run a lathe" book from way back when I was in school. The lathe seems to run way too slow and wants to kick into neutral under any kind of load. The lathe came out of one of the local high schools. I need someone to help me get started. If anyone out there near Lethbridge, Alberta can help me out, I would appreciate it.
Feeling rather dumb here. I always ask for pictures when replying to a technical question, but somehow forget this concept when I'm in need of help.
Lift up the belt cover and see if the big gear in the back is meshing or engaged with the spindle gear. By position of the lever it looks like it is.
The red lever does forward, reverse, and neutral. Gears are engaged. The belt drive is on the fastest of the three pulleys and it doesn't spin the lathe very fast.
I’m not familiar with your lathe, but on mine, behind the chuck area is a “button” that is pulled in/out when using the back gears or not. Yours should be new enough that Google can find a source for the manual for that particular machine.
If the back gear is engaged you need disengage it by pushing the lever by the yellow cord forward. Do this with cover up so you can see how it functions. After that with cover still up you will need to push the spindle lock button on the big gear on the spindle. You may have to turn the spindle by hand to line up the pin with the hole to lock it. That is if it's a Southbend knockoff. One other thing is NEVER EVER engage the back gear mechanism with spindle lock engaged. One other thing is find yourself a manual for that thing. Good luck
I can look at this one tomorrow. It's on the east side of Cleveland. https://hgrinc.com/productDetail/Machine-Tools/Used-South-Bend-South-Bend-A-Lathe/04211510014/
Hey Goldmountain, all good. I have an old 1950's USA made version of the South Bend Light 10. It's remarkable how similar that one is to mine. The cover you have open is the power feed assembly. The lever is in neutral and up and down give you infeed and outfeed. What you want is to open the headstock cover. It's on top, and the power lever is mounted on top of that cover. I have mine on the front of the machine. Open the headstock cover and you should see what you are looking for - the pulleys via which you can change the operating speed of the, you guessed it, spindle. Mine is a flat leather deal like the photo below but your Daejung copy could have anything under there. Shoot some photos and let us take a peek.
Thank you to everyone who has responded to my request. I hope this thread stays alive long enough to solve my problem. Anything else I should take pictures of?
Like I said, in a previous post, that lever by the yellow cord is the back gear lever! Make sure your spindle is unpinned when in back gear, pinned when out of back gear! You can see the pin at about the top, a little this side, of the spindle gear! You have to index the pin! Probably the reason your lathe spins slow and stops when you touch it is that the back gear is out and your spindle is unpinned! PS, nice lathe Bones
THANK YOU THANK YOU! If you look at my last photo, you can see the bull lock plunger is disengaged. Sure helps to have that "How to run a lathe" book to tell me what the parts are. Now it runs at a reasonable speed. After all this time, I might have an actual working lathe.
It does look like the countershaft assembly is cockeyed in your photo. That will throw the belt off in a jiffy if not aligned properly. There are online tutorials on how the align the pulleys up also using a carpenters square. As I mentioned before is to NEVER EVER engage the back gear without pulling out the lock pin. Could result in broken gear teeth.
Kinda like me eyes fingers toes , 2 , 10 and 11 . Great combo for my gun safe , I’ll never forget it !
The pin (in circle) is pulled out. You must line up the spindle with the pulley pin hole by hand, and push it in. Once the pin is in, you have direct connection. Be sure the handle (arrow) is now in the position that disengages the gear set.
This is an ATLAS 10" lathe that my Dad bought in the mid 60's It didn't get too much use, but we did find some half-nut parts that it needed. It sat "out on the farm" for many years and got very dirty and some of it even got rusty. We were holding an estate sale after my Dad had passed on. I tore the lathe down completely and refurbished everything on it. At the time, it was easy to get replacement parts....don't know if that's true now. Made a nice wooden box for the 4-jaw (or 3-jaw) tailstock chuck, a few dead centers and the face plate Built a heavy-duty stand of wood and MDF for the top. This was featured on the sale bill for the auction, and drew more than a few interested parties. IIRC, it brought $1300, alot more than I thought it would.
Spooky how close the offshore lathe is to my vintage South Bend light 10. Looking at your flat belt drive, all your comments and the other comments are correct on the bull lock and the countershaft. I do have to ask about belt tension. I don't see how yours is set. Mine is set via a threaded pushrod through this hole. I struggled with the leather belts not providing enough grip on the pulleys and converted to 5 groove automotive serpentine belts. Much more drive at lower tensions which helps the split belt live. Gatz, excellent job on the Atlas. I found a "Craftsman" (made by Atlas) that my brother now has and uses all the time. The lathe is an invaluable shop tool.
Thanks Paul. Your SB is a very nice lathe. The serpentine belt was a good mod. ( Every time I hear or see the word "serpentine" I'm reminded of the movie "The In Laws" with Peter Falk telling Alan Arkin "serpentine, Shel, serpentine") A man I knew years ago had a 9" SB. He made all sorts of parts on it. He built a steam powered vehicle that would seat 2. The cylinders were of the oscillating valve type and drove a single rear wheel/tire. Quite the undertaking.
Now that my lathe might actually be useful, my next question. It says on the lathe that I should oil it daily with 240-500 oil. Where can I find suitable oil?