Technical Radiator Cap PSI - Now Plugged Radiator

It does have 3 numbers, 100, 180 at the top and 220 on the far right. It's been running near the 220 and I've only done 5 mile test drives to town so far. 220 isn't all that worrisome, if it's correct, but if they intended that I don't think it would be at the end of gauge travel. I should have a look at the thermostat too, probably never been out. Might run cooler if I washed it too..

 

It would be a good idea to check the thermostat.

And it's likely the radiator is plugged up....that's a pretty common problem on old neglected cars, unfortunately.

 

Today I installed a mechanical temp gauge, drove to town and back, 230 degrees. Pulled the thermostat housing, no thermostat, found this instead, plugging the passages. Picked, scraped and vacuumed it out, quit for the day. Anyone come across this junk?

 

yeah, aluminum that sits for a long time with old coolant in it will grow some wild stuff.

And it plugs up the radiator, too. Are there any old radiator shops where you live, that could rod it out?

 

I'm sure I could find one. But I'd like to drive it again first. Wonder if there is anything I could put in that would dissolve what's left.

 

Vinegar or contents of can with three letters

 

Run a hose through the rad and the engine with the hoses disconnected, to try and get most of it out.

then use a rad flush of your choice to get some more out.

I’m with @squirrel about getting the rad rodded out.


Worst I saw was an old Chevy van10 that a construction worker brought in for over heating.

someone dropped a bag of rice into his rad , by the time he got to our shop the cooling system was plugged solid.

pulled the rad and heater core to get flushed

punched out as many frost plugs as we’re easily accessible and just kept at it with a pressure washer till it was clean

 

I though that the thermostat number was to show what temp it opens at and not really realted to what lbs pressure cap you use.

 

The thought was when Chevy increased the cap from 7 to 13 around 1960 it may have been to compensate for increased running temperatures via the thermostat, for the purposes of reduced engine wear, less sludge or other benefit. Nothing documented or certain, just a thought.

 

Bud? I found a thread on vinegar, that's a thought.

Sounds like a plan, I like the idea of washing the engine out separately to keep any remaining junk out of the radiator and heater. Hope to get some time in the morning.

 

230 won't hurt anything. 250 or so, you might start having some problems.

It's a good point about getting the engine out and apart to clean it out. That might be necessary, to prevent plugging up the radiator again, with all the crap that's still in there, that you can't flush out easily.

 

I have an hour or two this morning, thinking I'll vacuum it out one more time, put the thermostat housing back on, take the top hose off at the radiator, run it with fresh water going into the radiator and out the top hose into a bucket. If it's clean enough put the hose on and go for a spin. Go from there. The radiator does drain quickly and cleanly out the drain valve. I've never heard of any sort of screen or filter in the top hose but the thought occurred to me.

I've really enjoyed getting this old girl back on the road, wish I could do one of Squirrel's adventure trips. There is, or was, a 3 day Northern California old car rally, if it gets resurrected I'd like to do that. I've been pleasantly surprised at how well it goes down the road, having heard horror stories about how bad C1 Vettes were. Outside of a cramped cockpit it's actually very nice. Need to get the AM radio going..

Stay tuned.

 

https://24hoursoflemons.com/lemons-rally/hell-on-wheels-cali-2021/

 

What will you be driving, Jim?

Ben

 

no idea, not even if I'll be there.

But an early vette would be so fun on a drive like that!

 

Sounds great! Might have it sorted by then. Hope you can make it. I'll bring the tow rope.

No love today unfortunately. When I ran it with the garden hose in the radiator inlet and thermostat housing off not much water coming out, radiator kept overfilling. I buttoned it up and went for a ride, overheated again. So I'll be pulling the radiator when it cools off for a clean out and go from there.

 

Got the radiator out, called the local radiator shop. Closed. Until November, lol! Need to look elsewhere. In the mean time, I got a peek inside, not good. Then, I filled it with water, opened the bottom outlet, nothing, nada, dry as a bone! It's completely plugged.

Might put some vinegar in it over the weekend while I find another radiator shop. Maybe pull the water pump too for a look.

 

looks like the original style core.

Bummer

 

If it was me, I'd go to the local refrigeration supply and get a gallon of buffered condenser cleaning acid. It is made for cleaning water cooled condensers, dissolving the minerals deposited on the water side.
I've used it for that and cleaning automotive radiators/cooling systems.
I'd do the radiator first
The buffering chemicals will keep the acid from going after the metal, just the deposits.
Once it stops fizzing and foaming, it's done.
It needs to be done with the system/component open to atmosphere as there is foaming and off gassing.
You need to do it with the proper PPE gauntlet gloves, face shield, goulashes, raincoat... and respirator or fresh air makeup hood
Charged water hose on standby for flushing
5 gallon plastic buckets to dump and dilute stuff in
Remember to add acid to water, not water to acid
I kill it with baking soda/water and you can get a big bag(s) of it at Harbor Freight (as much as I hate to type that)
I've cleaned radiators up better than the shop did after it was rodded
Not for the faint of heart and think it thru PM if you have questions
Good luck and fun project car for sure!

 

If you got a big enough tub try soaking the rad in vinegar or clr or what ever
Periodically flushing it with water or air, if you can heat it up bonus .

and yes on pulling the pump, frost plugs , heater hoses whatever is easily accessible and try to flush out the engine as best you can.

or pull the t star and fill it with vinegar before pulling it apart as far as you can to loosen and soften up whatever shmeng is in there .

up here we call that style of rad a cotton core rad.

good luck

 

Sounds like just the ticket. So I called my buddy who does HVAC, nowhere to get it locally he says, but bring it to AC Radiator, they'll fix you up. Got down there, great guys, unfortunately pointed out the previous repair job I hadn't noticed, and an apparent leak at the top tank. I asked about making it like new again, they said yeah for about $800, better to just go online and see what's available. So that's what I'm about to do. I guess there's not much to lose with this one, will still look around for the buffered acid, if not maybe some vinegar or whatever.

On a brighter, if not uglier note, my $14 shipped Lemons approved seat covers arrived today, so I test fit one. Fits like a glove. A swinging 1970s glove.

 

The leak at the top of the core is tough to fix. But you're probably better off getting the radiator you have recored, it's only eight bills, which isn't that bad when you put it all in perspective.

i'd be tempted to take the cover off the seat bottom, and sneak some foam in there....but that's only because I've put a lot of miles on old seats that needed new padding!

 

Sounded like the $800 quote was just a 'go away, ain't gonna mess with it' price. But I will check with other SF Bay Area shops, somebody might be more willing. Online, there's an abundance of $2-$300 aluminum jobs, and this $500 copper and brass. Think I'd go for that over aluminum.

https://www.zip-corvette.com/55-60-radiator.html

Yeah, that seat bottom is miserable. Luckily the passenger side, slightly better, swaps in. But it will getting a foam stuffing for sure.

 

that car deserves a copper/brass radiator....

 

To try to figure out what kind of 'crud' you're dealing with, and how to get rid of it:
Put some of the crystals that you dug out in a glass or plastic container and soak in vinegar for 12 hours or so. If they dissolve, lay the radiator on its face and fill with vinegar and see what happens. Flush really well with a hose, neutralize with baking soda and check flow. If it flows much better, do the same with the engine (plug radiator hoses to keep the vinegar in the block. Drain, flush, etc.). IF it looks like it's getting better, put it back together and flush with a good commercial radiator flush kit.
Vinegar is $2-$3 a gallon, time is free, and you'll learn something. A good flush kit is about $20. JMHO

 

STP??

 

And that's what it will have. Sure would like to keep the original, the repos look nothing like it. As you said, the cost isn't really important, my widow will recoup it later on. Still going to call around for someone that can fix it. Really no hurry, I have until November.

Great advice, thanks. Unfortunately the crud pile is locked up elsewhere for the weekend. I have the radiator soaking in a mild vinegar solution right now, since I had a quart on the shelf. It's already starting to dribble out the bottom. Will go get more today. But then there is that top tank leak..

 

Used to be a good radiator shop in Campbell, but I haven’t lived in the Bay Are for 20+ years, so unsure if they are even around anymore. The two good shops I used to use in Modesto have closed door as well.

 

A friend recommended Pankey's in Hayward. Recored his Model A, $500 but he's happy with it.

 

Good price in the Bay, and if your friend is satisfied, all the better. Old hand and those that have been around, can fix about anything.