Technical Using a Nova bell housing on a full size

I’m putting a 348 with a 4 speed in my 60 El Camino. I think I’ve located a Lakewood scatter shield for early an early Nova for a very reasonable price. Most Chevys have their clutch fork at the 9:00 position. Early Novas have the fork at 7:00. Has anyone tried messing with one of these? I don’t mind messing with some linkage lengths, but if it’ll be a big hassle with moving fulcrum points for bell cranks and stuff, it might not be worth the money saved…. The car is torn down and the Lakewood is far away, so I can’t really see if it fits before I buy….

Thanks guys.

 

Been there. Find a correct one.

 

Oh man, that’s what I was afraid of…

 

I have a 67 Nova and I know for a fact that Lakewoods' pricing is crazy compared to their non Nova scattershield so unless you are paying freight charges it would be wise to grab it if it's reasonably priced.​

 

Meaning that if it is "reasonable enough" that Nova scatter shield is some serious trading material. If you can afford to sit on it for a while that is.

 

There’s shipping involved. I do have a little time to do some trading. Gotta think about it. Thanks for the input!

 

I think you'll need the 153 tooth flywheel with the Nova bell.

 

Being that it's a scatter shield I'd say not.

 

I use either Tri-5 or Chevy truck steel bell housings and nothing else with a stick. The one in my '59 has been in 4 cars so far, only found out on the last install it is from a '55 Chevy.

 

I've got a '55 bell housing I was planning on using, but then this Lakewood showed up.

 

I like the fact that the clutch can be dropped with the unit in place, plus the starter mounts to the bellhousing and not the block. I use a forged truck release fork, OG to a '66 panel truck.

 

I took your advice and look what FedEx drug in today. Now, I guess I’ll either flip it, trade it, or cut out a window for a 9:00 clutch fork and make a new fulcrum boss. I’ve got a Lakewood in my coupe I can template from.


Its not a competition car, so I don’t need to worry about a certified bell and even with two windows, or one welded up, it’ll be way stronger than the factory cast piece.

 

I knew what the cost of a Lakewood Chevy II scatershield was because I bought one some years back for my 67 and decided not to use it. Ended up trading it to a friend of mine for some chassis work on my roadster.
He also cut out a 9:00 window in it for his 55 Chevy.

 

Relocating the pivot point/ball as well?

 

Yes. That looks fairly simple, other than having to buy a big tap.