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Technical Using the correctly fitting chassis hardware

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by loudbang, Jul 17, 2021.

  1. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,292

    loudbang
    Member

    DISCLAIMER: NOT my video and I have NO connection to this company.

    Found this one on youtube and it is very interesting. I learned quite a lot about hardware I have never heard about.

    He builds drag racing cars, but this info does apply to HAMB style cars suspension and steering systems.

    WARNING: he uses a few swear words :rolleyes:

     
  2. Great find on the video, lots of good info!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 23,875

    Deuces

    You say he cusses up a storm????....o_O
    Yeah, I'd say he's normal...:);)
     
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  4. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,678

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, absolutely transferable to the hot rod world. Correct shoulder engagement on steering and suspension parts and brackets has always been a pet peeve of mine. Have worked on many friends cars that had ride or drive issues traced back to worn link and hairpin bolts and brackets due to incorrect bolts used. Pot holes are just as abusive to your coupe or roadster as mega torque and brute HP on a race car.
     

  5. Interesting, but I think this guy is a bit too anal... and I've never liked the idea of using a bolt as a pivot point. For a rigidly attached part, yes. But if movement is required, a replaceable sleeve with the bolt through it and fully tightened down to prevent bolt movement is a superior method. Or a properly-sized shoulder bolt if you don't want the sleeve. He's building race cars and trying to save ounces, so long-term durability isn't a factor.

    And ultimate bolt strength isn't always as important as he makes it out to be. A lot of the off-road guys use grade five bolts as they tolerate shock loads better, bending/stretching rather than breaking. You just need to use a big enough bolt.
     
    Tman, VANDENPLAS, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  6. Well PHUK!! Now I've gotta throw out all my fasteners and tools! By the time I spend all my dough on that, I can't afford a car! The up side is, my tools and fasteners will last forever. "These quality fasteners are not that expensive in the over all build." "Buy quality tools because these fasteners are expensive."
    I agree with the idea of correct body length in load-bearing applications, but as a build "rule", it's overkill. Also, I do not agree with the wholesale use of half-nuts. Standard engineering practice is using a nut with the same thread engagement length as the diameter of the thread.
     
  7. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,175

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    If you think that's a lot of cussing, you should watch his China rant. :)
     
  8. Dude is dead on with the china rant.
     
  9. Mike VV
    Joined: Sep 28, 2010
    Posts: 3,038

    Mike VV
    Member
    from SoCal

    A coupa things -

    1. BIG SURPRISE THAT HE MISSED - One BIG thing that he's missed - OFFSHORE hardware..!!
    A given grade spec. will NOT...be the same in offshore fasteners as it will be on a "quality" US made to a given specification fastener.
    You'll pay more for a "spec." fastener, but it's also MUCH better material.
    Offshore grade 8...is not...actually...grade 8. There was a BIG to-do in the Military and Aerospace about offshore fasteners about 15/18 years ago.
    No US Military or US Aerospace company is allowed by specifications to buy ANY offshore fastener, per the United States Government.
    Like my local nut and bolt shop. A LARGE store, full of fastening hardware.
    Most all "offshore".
    If you want proper spec. hardware from them, they have their ARP section. BUT, the cost is .50% to .75% higher.

    2. AN fasteners are bought by "grip" length (solid shank) length (read that, part number & grip length). The thread length, if you want different than what is offered, you'll pay BIG for it.

    3. Aerospace requirement is three threads past the end of the nut, not one or two. This is a "learned response" from...problems (accidents/crashes/backed off nuts !

    4. Thin nuts and one to two thread = is a lightweight thing, not necessarily "pretty" as far as he's concerned.

    5. "Jet Nut", this is Tim's name/term. It is not an actual name. They go by part numbers...not cutesy names that have little meaning..! Those reduced head nuts are used all over spacecraft and aircraft, NOT just the "jet" engine, I assume he means.

    6. While buying AN hardware, IS...the top of the line, like Tim states, he doesn't really mention, your wallet WILL notice the difference over "standard", spec. driven (quality) hardware store hardware..!

    Otherwise, yeah, all good information.
    My comments are from working in and for the Military and Aerospace the Industry for over 40 years.

    Mike
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2021
  10. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    I wish people who buy farm store crap bolts by the pound would watch this. The same also goes for hardware store bought china shit bolts also. They need to be hit over the head with a piece of tubing. Were building Hot Rods, not plows. Finally somebody who speaks the truth.
     
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  11. 19Eddy30
    Joined: Mar 27, 2011
    Posts: 2,320

    19Eddy30
    Member
    from VA

    WARNING: he uses a few swear words :rolleyes:


    Thats for sure , But he knows his $hit,
    & tell you how it is !!!
    If you want yr ride to Hook ,plant power & go Straight!o_O
     
    loudbang and Deuces like this.

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