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Projects My Dads 1956 Mercury

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 56MercMan, Jun 3, 2020.

  1. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Update:
    I have the steering and column all back together until I get a new collar
    upload_2020-6-16_13-36-40.jpg

    I found out the skirts I have are foxcraft by doing of lots of searching and finding a picture of a 59 Mercury skirt on ebay. I should be getting the foxcraft mounts and skirt seals by Friday.

    Bought some screws and washers on Sunday to mount my hood ornament because I was bored and there is a dent where it mounts. This will hide that dent until I fix it or decide if I am shaving the hood emblems or not. I go back and forth on it...
    I think I may need to replace the entire hood. Where the hinges mount it is loose and the metal is failing. The car mover smashed the hood so the edges are crushed also
    upload_2020-6-16_13-36-11.jpg

    New question: I have the original 1956 mercury gauges and I have a C4 transmission in it now. I have never really dealt with automatics at all. I have had nothing but manuals up until I got my 2005 Truck and I have not had to touch a thing on that. I have the factory speedo cable and I am wondering if anyone knows if it is a simple plug and play putting the 1956 cable into the 1977 C4 transmission or if I need a new cable or just a new gear end. I have done some google searching that said 1955 thunderbird was a simple plug and play but that 56 thunderbirds would not work. I could not find any info on the Mercury and since the thunderbird seems to be similar I am assuming it is the same?

    It had a 312 Y block with a Merc-o-matic and now it has a 1982 ford 302 with a 1977 C4 both out of F150's. Here is the cable I have:
    upload_2020-6-16_13-42-37.jpg
    upload_2020-6-16_13-42-47.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. When I did a 351W/FMX swap into a '56 Ford I used to own I had to have a new speedo cable made. Ford did make some cables with the right ends for you but whether or not the length will be right is a crapshoot. Find a speedo shop locally, take a sample of the ends you need and the length, they can make one for you.

    A tip: if what you get doesn't have a plastic jacketing, put some shrink tube over the last couple of feet before it goes into the trans. This will prevent leaks.
     
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  3. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Thanks for the tip Steve. I will see if I can find a speedo shop in the Temecula area.
     
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  4. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    I found a speedo shop sort of locally and gave them the info for a price like Steve mentioned. $99 and some change then shipping. Ouch. I did a little research on here and found out I have a 5/8th thread top with a C4 bottom. I measured my old cable at 68 inches. I found out the C4 takes little speedo gears that come in different sizes and I found on here where someone linked to TCI for a calculator. (Not sure who posted in all those threads I read but thanks to all)

    I took all that info and found a 70 inch cable on ebay from a shop in NY for 19.99 plus shipping. Found a guy in Washington selling a 5 pack of speedo gears and a C clip with free shipping for 18ish dollars. So about $48 later I now just installed my speedo cable:
    upload_2020-6-29_17-47-18.jpg

    upload_2020-6-29_17-47-36.jpg

    Thanks to Rocket Scientist Chris mentioning the T-Bird uses the same parts I found a place to buy a new Shifter Collar, Chrome Blinker Collar and even the plastic cover. The cool thing is 1958 is Black, 1959 is Gold and 1960 is silver. So if I buy a 1959 indicator it will match the gold I currently have. This will also give me the 1,2,D like mentioned earlier. Plus I should be able to make my horn work again. Just need to get the $ saved up.

    upload_2020-6-29_18-28-35.png
     
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  5. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Favor if anyone has it. I am looking for a picture of the underside of a 1955 or a 1956 Mercury. I would like to see how the E-brake and other lines are ran. Want to try and get the underside dialed in. I tried googling it and found only 1 picture from the side which did not help much.
     
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  6. ken Vogel
    Joined: Jul 6, 2019
    Posts: 5

    ken Vogel

     
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  7. ken Vogel
    Joined: Jul 6, 2019
    Posts: 5

    ken Vogel

    Cool car. I noticed in the post - picture before you started on the project. The car had the side door moldings ( just below the window line ) which provides the color change line. I also see that these moldings are not currently on the car in primer. Do you have them and will you sell them.
    Thanks, Ken 727 - 434 - 7447. Phone call or text is better than post for me as I don't get on the computer much.
     
  8. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    All moldings that were on the car will be back on the car once completed.
     
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  9. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,795

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’m not sure about a C4. Your story MercOMatic speed speedo gear fed of the top of the trans housing with I believe was a 7/8” cable. My FX trans fed off the bottom making everything run backwards. With som work moved it back to the top. A shop in Colorado made me a new complete cable. They are here on the HAMB. A Company in Texas, an instrument co, makes reverses and speedo correction gearboxes.
     
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  10. Where did you find these parts? Inquiring minds want to know.... LOL
     
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  11. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    These parts are available from a couple places but when I go to purchase them I think I am going to purchase from Wilson T bird. They had pictures and all that so I am pretty sure that is what I need.

    https://www.wilsontbird.com/
     
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  12. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,244

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You're livin right. Kool car, even kooler story. You're also right it's a 4dr sedan and it does work with family. Just a visual option you can try before final paint. If you satin black the door window frames they visually "go away" and at 1st blush it looks like a hardtop. Just the painted areas around the glass, leave all the chrome. You can even try it in primer to see what I mean. Good score on the 'Bird shifter stuff. That problem with the automatic shift quadrants existed thru 66 in several Ford products. Not fun, but you got it. Great days ahead...;)
     
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  13. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    So I got my car back from the body shop and I will post an update on that in the other link and sum it up here but right now I need to finish what they started. Boooo

    I need to install the new driver side door glass. While doing it I would like to replace the window channel and fuzzies. I have searched here and online and watched videos but I still have questions I was hoping some may be able to help answer.

    I know I can measure the channel and buy the same size then cut to fit on the top and rear of the door. When looking at the front channel the felt channel is hard backed and riveted to the wing window frame.
    1) Do they sell different channel? some with hard back and others that press into the frame?
    2) Do I drill out the rivets and rivet in the new one or is there one that I slip into the old hard channel?

    Please see pic for better understanding of what I am talking about. This is the old broke piece:
    Top: Soft backed channel, cut to size press into existing door channel
    Top Channel.jpg

    Back of door. Soft backed channel cut to size press into existing door channel:

    Back Channel.jpg

    Here is what's stumping me. As you can see this is a hard channel that presses into an existing channel by the wind wing and then is its own channel all the way down. It has rivets to the Wind Wing fram and then to a mount at the bottom:

    Wing Channel 1.jpg
    Wing Channel 3.jpg
    Wing Channel 2.jpg
     
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  14. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Any help would be appreciated as all I am really finding is the soft backed channel stuff.
     
  15. 54vicky
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,599

    54vicky
    Member

    may want to check restoration specialties in PA pretty sure they may have listed on their web site
     
    Jeff Norwell likes this.
  16. Rocket Scientist Chris
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 602

    Rocket Scientist Chris
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had a similar problem when I did the window channels on my ‘55 Mercury. Since I couldn’t find a direct replacement, I decided to fix what I had. The fuzzy material was pretty much gone on my channels, so cleaning was just a matter of scrapping the debris out. I used black felt, cut into strips and glued into the channel, as the replacement. That was over 25 years ago and it’s still working! :)
     
  17. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    While the car was in the shop I got a few missing/needed parts:
    Stock wheel to use for a spare
    A new hood since mine is smashed and splitting apart
    The hard to find front hood stainless trim
    Re chromed rear door handles (Too cheap to pass up)
    I got the lost/Missing door stainless from a junk yard in the bay area
    Got a stock cig lighter for the dash off ebay (Now the dash is complete)
    Got the inner door parts that got smashed in the accident (Arm rest, Window crank and door handle)

    Got a good deal on some parts over the weekend. Skirts, 2 Dinged up hubcaps and 2 New in the Bag emblems all for $100. The emblems alone are 100 each on ebay.

    upload_2021-6-3_10-24-36.png

    So as mentioned in my accident thread the body shop that did the work did a very bad job. The front edge/corner of the fender they rebuilt is wavy and off by almost a half inch. The corner of my old smashed fender was good. I saw that this was spot welded on so this weekend I melted out the lead and drilled the spot welds on the smashed fender and pulled off the front edge. The plan is to drill the spots on the new fender and put this on fixing their crappy work.


    How bad the work is... Stainless strip has a gap behind it that will not work.

    upload_2021-6-3_10-25-48.png

    Piece I took off the old fender:

    upload_2021-6-3_10-26-23.png
     
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  18. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Question for those that know more then me...

    I am about to order new window felt, rubber and fuzzies. The doors have been blasted and primed. I do not want to take the doors all apart add the rubber, fuzzies and felt and put them back together to only be blown apart again in the future for paint. My thought was to buy some paint and spray the inner areas now, add the fuzzies and felt so that when it is time to paint we only need to tape off the trim/inner areas and all the paint would match.

    A) is that a good idea? I know that people "jamb" parts for the vehicle before they paint the whole thing sometimes so wondering if that would be a good plan for me.
    B) Would you all recommend single or 2 stage paint? Going back to pretty stock colors (A little off white and blue) No metallic or pearls or any of that.

    I did try searching on here first and did not find answers to what I was looking for so if there is a better thread you know of a link would be great.

    Thanks
     
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  19. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Looking for some help on 2 items I need to get fixed so the car is safer to drive:

    1) I need to rebuild my manual steering box. I have a 2 tooth steering gear (Whatever that means). I have found replacement sector shaft and worm gear but am not really finding a rebuild kit. Anyone have any ideas on where I could find a rebuild kit for a mercury steering box? Google is not being my friend. The gears are just one part. I am sure there are bearings and seals and all that. Is there any other vehicles that run that same steering box? T-bird, Ford car?

    2) I need to rebuild my shifter column. I have found a rebuild kit for a 58-61 T bird which from this site I learned is the same(Thank you all). I worry that this kit may be missing something... Anything else you all think I may need?

    It comes with:
    1958-1960 Steering Column Rebuild Kit
    This it includes: upper shaft bushing, shift collar, detent plate, shift indicator, shift collar pin, lower shift tube seal, lower shift arm, lower firewall seal, shift indicator and one can of vinyl dye. (Please indicate the year of your car and the color of your interior.)
     
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  20. Rocket Scientist Chris
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 602

    Rocket Scientist Chris
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your 2 tooth box is the same as those used in ‘55 and early ‘56 Thunderbirds. The ‘55 - ‘57 Thunderbird catalogs are a great reference for parts you will need to rebuild your box. I did my ‘55 Mercury steering box not long ago. I even upgraded to a 3 tooth (little more robust)!
    But, I would not recommend doing a rebuild unless you have all of the tools and knowledge needed. It took me two sets of needle bearings to figure out how to get them installed without binding up the needles! Removing the lower taper bearing race for the steering worm shaft was another nightmare! Loads of other problems, too! Though it looks good and operates smoothly, now. I don’t want to do it again! :)
    If you don’t need bearings replaced in your box, go for it! Otherwise, pay for a rebuild. The price is worth your sanity! :)
     
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  21. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Thank you very much Chris. We have done steering boxes on other vehicles and tractors previously. There is a video of rebuilding it on YouTube also. Against your better advice I think I am going to give it a shot. Ha. Glutton for punishment. I appreciate the info. I will look for a rebuild kit for a 55/56 T bird

    Is there a trick to getting the steering box removed from the column? I am not seeing a U-Joint or rag joint or anything that can be removed from the column. I assume the column needs to come out with the box.
     
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  22. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,809

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    2x on that Answer!... Call them and ask for Matt... super knowledgable .. super helpful and friendly.I bought everything for my 57 through them.
    Good Luck and keep rolling..
     
    bobss396 likes this.
  23. The steering shaft is one piece with the box. You have two choices in how you remove the steering box. You can remove the box/column as a unit by removing the access plate on the floor and bring the box/column out through the interior, or if you can get the car high enough off the ground you can remove the access plate, loosen the upper column mount and pull the box out from underneath, leaving the column in the car. Be aware that your horn wire is inside the hollow steering shaft, and removes by pulling it out from inside after disconnecting at the box. You may want to replace it while you're there.

    Ford used this box in everything '55-57, the problem is that one-piece steering shaft/worm gear. Shaft length changed between years on the cars, T-Bird was different from both, and I wouldn't be surprised if Mercury was different from Ford. The usual failure on these is the worm bearings, and that's the problem. On the OEM worm gear, Ford machined the inner bearing races onto the gear, then hard-chrome-plated the races for wear resistance. This plating fails and peels off over time. You used to have to find the right length worm/shaft assembly to repair one but those dried up.

    The current rebuild kits contain a new worm gear that requires you to cut the old worm off your shaft and weld on the new one. But it doesn't appear that the races on the new gear are plated or hardened for wear, so I'd be concerned about future longevity. I've often wondered if it was possible to machine the old races off the gear and find an actual separate inner race that could be pressed on.

    Borgeson makes a conversion power box for these, you cut your OEM shaft off the box and couple it to the new box. Big bux unfortunately, and you lose the horn wire so you have to figure out an alternative to operate the horn.
     
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  24. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    That is great info Steve. When you say "or if you can get the car high enough off the ground you can remove the access plate, loosen the upper column mount and pull the box out from underneath, leaving the column in the car." Do you mean the 2 bolt mount in the column to the dash or is there another mount? I assume I can leave the steering wheel and all that in place. I have access to a few lifts.

    I can take pics of anything on the car if that would help.
     
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  25. Rocket Scientist Chris
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 602

    Rocket Scientist Chris
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Excellent! You’re already familiar with the horrors!

    The column tube is removed by loosing the clamp at the base of the tube, disconnecting the shift linkage, removing the steering wheel, disconnecting the column wiring and removing the clamping collar at the bottom of the dash. It’ll just slip off the shaft at this point.

    ‘55 - ‘56 Mercury steering shafts are different from Ford cars. The lengths are year specific and the steering wheel splines are specific to ‘55/56 Mercs and (if I remember correctly) 58-60 Thunderbirds.

    Removing the box itself is a little more involved. Since my ‘55 Merc has power steering, I saw no way of removing it from under the car. Removing it from the interior was my only option. I already had my dash and column out for new wiring. So, I pulled the brake pedal assembly, loosened the gas pedal from the floor and rolled the carpet back. I decided to remove the master cylinder to allow more room to roll the box out from between the frame and motor. It also allowed the box to rotate upward to let it come out upside down. My front seat was still in place, so there was less room to drop the shaft and pull the whole assembly straight out. By swinging the shaft to the right with the box pointing upward, it came out pretty easily. And yes, everything was thoroughly wrapped to protect from drips! :)

    Hope this helps!
     
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  26. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Thank you so much. I had the box off the frame before when I split the body from the frame but left the column in the body with the box attached. Should have tackled this all at the same time but never drove the car before to learn how bad it was.
     
  27. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    2 small items done. Just things that bugged me while driving

    1) made a red lens for the brake light on my dash. Only item missing from dash
    20210711_150338.jpg

    Fixed the sagging visors:

    Before:
    191809222_10208479045651609_4776090923767393113_n.jpg

    After:
    20210711_162836.jpg
     
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  28. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Got my tails from Wirth. Wirth was great to deal with. The lenses are not as dialed as I was expecting. Gaps in places and a little too long. Will use a heat gun to try and move the lens a little to fit better then grind to fit and figure out an install.

    20210721_082815.jpg
    20210721_082914.jpg
    20210721_082826.jpg
    20210721_082919.jpg
     
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  29. 56MercMan
    Joined: May 22, 2008
    Posts: 131

    56MercMan
    Member

    Installed with LED tails underneath. 10 LED bulbs in each light. Not sure if hamb friendly or not but I do NOT want to get hit again.

    20210730_095445.jpg
     
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  30. Rocket Scientist Chris
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 602

    Rocket Scientist Chris
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    How did you mount your lenses to the bezels? Double sided trim mounting tape? I’ve seen some mounted with screws. But, it doesn’t look like you used screws.

    Did you replace the back-up light socket with another dual element socket (for added brightness!) ? Any pics of the new lights with the brake lights or running lights on?

    So many question! :)
     

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