I just finished a blind stitched stuffed pleat seat cushion. 2" pleats stuffed with two layers of 1"thick foam. the pleats came out great , really tall, but when I sewed the pleats into the seat the welt cord and the attaching panels warped. I think I probably went too thick with the foam in the pleats making not only the top vinyl stretch but also pushing on the heavy canvas backing , making the panel really stretchy along its length. the width of the pleats on the backing is narrower than the roll of the pleats . The youtube video I watched used cotton to stuff the pleats and not nearly as thick as what I did . I did push the top of each pleat over as I sewed on the welt and seat panels, but when I got to the end, the tuck and roll panels were about and inch longer than they started. Is there a trick to sewing tuck and roll panels into a seat?
"Is there a trick to sewing tuck and roll panels into a seat?" Oh... There are MANY! Sid Chavers (Santa Clara, CA.) had some tapes he made after 2,005 sometime... They were extremely informative, as he did (still does?) most of the Brizio roadsters. My good friend Larry had the shop next door to Sid, not sure if the tapes are still available.
thanks, for the info, just found some video's on his website. https://www.sidchaverscompany.com/product/sid-chavers-upholstery-dvd
When Bobby Russel of Waco did the blind stitch roll and pleat in my 48 in 1973 I don't think he used foam that was that thick but even though he was showing me how it was done as he did it he did it so fast I missed some of the steps/tricks. It came out super nice and extremely comfortable though.
Cechaflo has some very good youtube videos on upholstery. Is there a chance that the "warp" will come out as you stretch the material over the seat frame? A buddy of mind did custom upholstery and he really stretched the heck out of covers as he put them on.
Yessir that is very correct. Also when you have them assembled place them out in the hot sun sometimes works. As well as a heat gun but be VERY careful. Sometimes placing a rag over the covers when using the heatgun will help prevent you from damaging them. Practice on a scrap piece first might help. In addition, sometimes just adding a little more foam or batting can cure the ill.
Did you sew a seam around the outside edge of the tuck and roll panel before trying to sew it to the rest of the seat to lock everything into place?
thanks for the link mr48chevy, very cool pics,Unfinished , I tried the things you mentioned, dmar836, I will post a few pics, (cringes a bit, a friend said the job looked good, think they were being kind) I have done complete seats in the past with regular pleats they came out great, however I feel like a complete idiot on this one. KI3, I did sew all the way around and as I did one side it started to look like a fan then as I got around to the other side it evened out but ended up about two inches longer than when I started. this was practice on a boat seat it is over plywood, thought I should get the hang of it before I started on my 32. I did install the seat in the boat ( Pm-38 boat I built during covid from a popular mechanics mag from 1960) and it is super comfortable just looks like hell.
I have done this a few different ways and what I found was a real tuck and roll can not be sewn to sew foam. It needs only a muslin backing and then hand stuff the pleats after. It gets way to bulky and shrinks up a lot making it difficult to line up your next attachment if done on sew foam. A blind stitch over 1/2” sew foam gives a nice look but doesn’t have that round look of real tuck and roll. Here is a couple test pieces from a while ago, the top is a blind stitch pleat over 1/2” sew foam. The bottom is stuffed with synthetic cotton batting and gives that nice round look without getting too bulky.
On my seats I used plumbers insulation - The door panels and headlining I kept as flat pleats with no filling. I ended up with lots of ruckles due to using cheap fabric that is really too flimsy/stretchy for the job, particularly on the headlining that required long joins. If one piece stretches just a little more than the other, by the time you get to the other end of the roof the problem is magnified. My advice to anyone attempting upholstery for the first time like I did - Don't buy fabric over the internet. See it and feel the quality before buying.
Cheater! But A+ for ingenuity. Looks really good but I like the way the batting ends more fully at each roll. But what a great idea! Rocco, I think K-13 is onto one thing. Stitching the panels first before joining will give much better control.
I like the very creative idea for the foam for the pleats. The shape of that foam works great. Do you know anyone who has done this before? I am just wondering how this foam holds up longterm. Not meaning to be negative at all please don't take it that way. Again, I like the idea and the shape of the pleat!
When sewing Tuck-N-Roll. Sew a line down both ends. It will grow. Then sew all the way around it. A double stitch line on both ends will flatten the roll so you can sew the other piece on easier. A double stitch on the ends will make sure the seams don`t open up as you sew.