Hey folks..im running a ford 8 inch out of a Granada I believe, and we've got everything painted, cleaned and putting back together now. We bought a brake hardware kit, but it didn't come with the parking brake link spring. Were not running an E brake anyway,,so could we eliminate that part and the missing spring all together? or does it need to still be installed for the rear brakes to work properly?? Thanks in advance for any help with this.
you don't need that for the service brakes to work. But you do want a parking brake....so see if you can find the rest of the parts....
Most if not all states require a working parking brake. Don't know whether your state requires a safety inspection, but if they do you'll need a working parking brake to pass.
If your not using a parking brake it’s not necessary. But it would be a lot cooler if you had a working one . What is the reason for not wanting to run one ?
^^^^^ This! No Idea of what state you live in but if you have to have it inspected before you can drive it not having a parking brake is a fail in most states. Read your state's requirements. Plus you don't want to be the clown who's rod rolled down an incline and crashed into someone else's when it got knocked out of gear when it was parked.
Parking brake is emergency brake ,you need it most when you need it , don't believe the bullshit about duel circuit brakes , emergency brake is a must have
If all else fails you could use one of these kits but getting the correct parts for a stock e brake seems to make more sense.
I remember that day... Hilton Head SC, The Hilton Head Concours, I was showing a car on the other side of the show field when the news spread that a car went for a swim. The owner had forgot to put the car back in gear after starting the car for the judges, he left in neutral and went for lunch. While he was gone the car started to roll, a few guys tried to stop it but could not hold the big Packard and it went into the pond. It took a scuba diver and a flat bed to retrieve the very wet classic.
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/driving-test-criteria/pre-drive-checklist-safety-criteria/ Hello, As always, check your local listings as per state: Here are the rules for California DMV drivers: From the DMV. Before you begin your driving test, the DMV examiner will ask you to locate and/or demonstrate the following vehicle and driver safety items. If an item listed in the Pre-Drive Checklist (Items 1–8 or 15–17) on your vehicle does not pass the criteria requirement (known as a “mechanical failure”), your driving test will be rescheduled. If you cannot locate and/or demonstrate the operation of 4 or more items from Items 9–14, your driving test will be counted as “unsatisfactory” (failure). Interpreters may be used during the pre-drive inspection for the identification and use of certain controls in the vehicle, but may not accompany you during the driving test. Only the examiner is allowed to accompany you during the driving test. Exceptions are made for training, service animals, and certain law enforcement situations. The requirements for each Pre-Drive Checklist item (Safety Criteria) are as follows: Item Requirement 1. Driver window The window on the driver side must open. You will be asked to open the window if the window is closed. 2. Windshield The windshield must provide a full unobstructed field of view for you and the examiner. 3. Rear-view mirrors The vehicle must have at least 2 mirrors. 1 must be located outside on the left side of the vehicle. The other mirror may be located inside in the center or outside on the right side of the vehicle. Mirrors must be secure, unbroken, and provide clear visibility. 4. Turn signals Both right and left turn signals on the front and back of the vehicle must be operational. 5. Brake lights Both brake lights (1 on the right side and 1 on the left side of the vehicle) must be operational. NOTE: This does not include the center light (usually on the rear window). 6. Tires Each tire must have 1/32 inch tread depth in any 2 adjacent grooves. NOTE: The vehicle cannot have bald tires. 7. Foot brake There must be at least 1 inch of clearance between the pedal and the floor board when the pedal is depressed. 8. Horn The horn must be: Designed for the vehicle and in proper working condition. Loud enough to hear from a distance of at least 200 feet. NOTE: The horn cannot be a bicycle horn. 9. Emergency (Parking brake) You must be able to locate and demonstrate how to use the parking brake (set and release). NOTE: Your driving test will be rescheduled as a mechanical failure if your parking brake does not work or if the brake does not set during the check. 10. Arm signals You must correctly demonstrate arm signals for: Left turn. Right turn. Slowing down or stopping. *11. Windshield You must correctly locate the windshield wiper switch and/or control wipers. *12. Defroster You must correctly locate the front windshield defroster button. 13. Emergency flasher (Hazard lights) You must correctly locate the emergency flasher switch/button if the warning vehicle is equipped with emergency flashers. *14. Headlights You must correctly locate the headlight switch. 15. Passenger door The front passenger side door must open and close properly. 16. Glove box The glove box door must be securely closed. 17. Seat (Safety) belts All vehicles designed with seat (safety) belts must have seat (safety) belts for both you and the examiner. All seat (safety) belts must work properly and be used by the individual(s) in the car. *During inclement weather, the driver must demonstrate that items 11-14 work properly or the driving test will be rescheduled. Jnaki Building is always fun, but a parking brake or emergency brake that is functional is a necessity. (Even with an automatic transmission.) It is the roll factor, however slight if your hot rod, with/without bumpers, is on a slight grade. Whether in a parking spot, on the roadway or parking on the side of the street when starting out, it will roll however slightly. The emergency brake handle usage is one of the last things taught to drivers in a Driver Education class to learn the hill/slope/grade stop and start procedures. It is a life/car saver. If it hasn't, it should be. The handling of your hot rod or daily driver depends on how you adapt to emergency situations. Even in an automatic transmission vehicle.
You could always use a Boat anchor with a Long Chain & Throw it out The Window when you want to make a Emergency STOP.! Or fix the one you Have.?? Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
I would put in a e-brake but if your not leave that out along with the arms that attach to the rear shoes with a pin and clip. They need to have the cable that keeps a small amount of tension on the system so there is no chance for the e-brake parts to cause a problem with the normal braking system. I removed all of the e-brake parts on race cars..
can always just take a short section of a section of wood, etc along if really in a situation when ebrake needed -
That little "park" pin in the automatic transmission will not hold the car if somebody slams into it while its parked. It will brake off and your car will go right down the hill smashing into everything and everybody who has the unfortunate luck of being in front of it...
I only have a brick.......I don't carry a spare tire either. (NOT saying you should follow my example!) Gotta hook it up one day. 6sally6
In 49 years of being a rod run/car show participant with several road trips that were over 4000 miles total I can only remember one flat/blown tire on the road and that was when I hit a piece of scrap metal on the road just north of Dumas Texas. I've had flats on the truck and flats on my 51 Merc a few times but that was the only one going to or from a show. On the other hand I have made sure I set the park brake on those rigs a lot when they were parked on a slight incline at an event. We pulled the Merc back in the driveway and shut it off and were unloading it after a family trip to an event back 32 years ago when my then 4 year old decided to jump in the car and play driver and pulled out of gear and rolled back and hit the neighbors apple tree with the open trunk lid. I didn't set the brake that time as I was in my own yard and I have never allowed my kids to play in any car at any time as I flat don't believe in it even if it's an old parts car out in the back yard. I've witnessed three different accidents at car shows in the past 50 years where some guy decided he had to reach in the car and fire the engine up from the outside to show someone how the engine sounded. One of those was one of those fire it up and gun the engine every 30 minutes dudes who was doing it because he didn't think the car got enough attention. It got lots of attention when it jumped in gear and hit another guys car on his last cry for attention of the day.
If it's in a 1962 or older Mopar they already have a hand brake on the transmission. They never came with rear wheel hand brake.
When I was looking to buy a car this year I was stunned how many werent fitted with an eBarke. Was a deal breaker on several occassions.
I have this exact unit on my 8", with a pull up style lever. Even with a light car it doesn't give a lot of grip, the 4:11 gear works against it if I'm not mistaken. It will hold at an uphill stoplight, but as an emergency brake it takes a heap of effort for a slow stop. Anyone else have one?
Quite a few States don't care if you have an Ebrake https://www.motorbiscuit.com/a-surprising-number-of-u-s-states-dont-require-vehicle-inspections/
The previous owner of my coupe did a parking brake delete and had the e-brake handle actuating the rear service shoes by pulling the service rod. It was stupid so I fixed it.