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Technical Floor repair options 1951 Ford Coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by F-ONE, Jul 1, 2021.

?
  1. Just use 1949-1950 Pans from EMS/Shoebox Central

    3 vote(s)
    33.3%
  2. Fabricate "1951 shaped" Patches out of the 19Gauge sheet metal I have

    5 vote(s)
    55.6%
  3. Do a temporary "pop rivet" patches for right now and arrange for some shop time this winter

    1 vote(s)
    11.1%
  4. Put the tag back over it

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    This is the only major rust damage on my car. It in the floor just forward of the seat. Passenger side is similar.
    This will be my first poll.;)
    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
    This was under the tag.
    [​IMG]Untitled by Travis Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG] by Travis Brown, on Flickr
    [​IMG]
    As you can see the 49-50 pan is nothing like the 1951 stamping. If you could imagine a cut line through the "EMS Automotive", that's about all of the patch I would use.

    Another option is just replacing the whole pan but, that just seems excessive to me.

    The inner and outer rockers are excellent. The floor braces are also in excellent shape as well. The rust out is just in the floor pan.

    My brother has an equipped shop with a plasma cutter and various welders. He has just finished rebuilding the floors on a 65 fastback.
    I can get with him and arrange a time to get the Ford over there in a few months. In the mean time I can fabricate my patches.

    My idea on patches is to use poster board for a template and pound out a close mimic of the factory stamps. I might try do some type of jig.

    How would you fix this?
     
  2. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,294

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    F-ONE likes this.
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,522

    alchemy
    Member

    I’d just use a bead roller to replicate the needed shape on some fresh steel and weld it in. It’s wise to fully clean the rust off before making the replacement, so you don’t end up needing to make it bigger.
     
    Dino 64 and F-ONE like this.
  4. Fabricate the pieces you need, and weld them in. I did that with my 53.
     
    Guy Patterson and F-ONE like this.

  5. gene-koning
    Joined: Oct 28, 2016
    Posts: 4,094

    gene-koning
    Member

    I would expect the amount of sheet metal that is going to need to be replaced is larger then you are expecting. You have to get to good enough metal to weld to, if there are pin holes nearby, the area with the pin holes also needs to be replaced.

    I'd be making arrangements with your brother to get it into his shop, pull the seats out, and replace anything that may be questionable. Then, next year you won't be asking about a different place that has rusted out.

    If the replacement floor pans do not match up with what you have, making pans out of the 19 gauge sheet metal is a better plan then buying something that doesn't fit.

    Beads add strength to flat sheet metal, but not everyone has a bead roller, or a place to keep one. Beads can be formed by hammering along the sides of round bar stock. Gene
     
    F-ONE likes this.
  6. CyaNide
    Joined: Mar 2, 2006
    Posts: 280

    CyaNide
    Member
    from Texas

    I have the same issue, but only on the passenger. I found this website. http://bradleyfloorpans.com/49-51.0.html
    I may just make mine though when I finally get to it. Listen to others and clean up what you have so you know what to replace.

    CN
     
    F-ONE likes this.
  7. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,378

    evintho
    Member

    EMS is way expensive. Fab our own.....it's really not that difficult. I did the floors on my '54. A cheap HF bead roller, HF brake and MIG welder is all you'll need. Pull the interior and sandblast the floors to see how much metal you need to replace. I used some poster board to form a template on mine......

    floor repair19.JPG

    Cut out the offending cancer.........

    floor repair17.JPG

    I made the tunnel transition with my vise and a 3" pipe............

    floor repair27.JPG

    My better half helped me form the stiffening ribs........

    floor repair28.JPG

    Tacked it in place............

    floor repair21.JPG

    Finish welded it and ground down the beads...........done!

    floor repair22.JPG
     
    F-ONE and ffr1222k like this.

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