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Technical Electrolosis on loaded block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flathead Freddie, Jun 25, 2021.

  1. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Hi

    Has anyone Electrolosis dipped a block with fully seized crank assy ?
    Oil pump also froze .
    3 things to gain here :
    Save rods with caps
    Save crank
    Absolutely no cracks wanted
    Yes the water jackets are great
    Freddie's never been bored
     
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  2. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 1,534

    Doublepumper
    Member
    from WA-OR, USA

    Hmm...because of the way electrolysis works (more a line of sight thing), it may not work well for what you need to do. A better method may be be a soak in something like citric acid, oxalic acid or molasses.
     
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  3. 1ton
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 688

    1ton
    Member

  4. Molasses or citric acid works if you can find a big enough tub. I have used citric acid to remove general rust. It doesn't work that well on greasy/dirty things. The mix I use is 1 lb to 5 gallons of water.
     
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  5. rpu28
    Joined: Jan 17, 2006
    Posts: 195

    rpu28
    Member
    from Austin

    Electrolysis will act on any iron that the electrolyte (water in your tub) can reach. But the reaction will be relatively slow in crevices, and even moreso if a crevice is blocked by non-metallic material (like grease).

    So if your seized crank assembly problem is pistons stuck in their bores, you'd probably be better off using some of the traditional methods for loosening them up.
     
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  6. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    a barrel of evapo rust maybe
     
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  7. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I do not believe this is a correct statement.
     
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  8. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Hot tank then citric acid.
     
  9. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,415

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    those Mole asses are hard to come by nowadays , a citric acid bath might work but Ive seen it eat cast iron if left too long.
     
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  10. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,913

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is probably the best approach (if you can afford it).
     
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  11. Rust 911 works great
     
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  12. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, it is largely line-of-sight. I have tried it on whole doors, with very limited success. That was with using pool noodles to selectively isolate the anode, for the insides. I gave up on that idea.

    "The process of electrolysis is 'line of sight' which means that the current in the electrolyte tends to travel between anodes and cathodes in direct lines rather than around objects that block the "view". For example, only the side of the iron object that faces the anode - waste electrode, will be de-rusted."

    https://www.metaldetectingworld.com...rocess of electrolysis is,, will be de-rusted.
     
  13. NoRust
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 117

    NoRust
    Member

    It is always easier to prevent rust, than to remove it. rust.JPG

    Or for use on old Chrysler hemi engines use RUST-BAN 392. o_O
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2021
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  14. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    Wonder what tastes worse?
     
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  15. lowrd
    Joined: Oct 9, 2007
    Posts: 405

    lowrd
    Member

    Which is rarer, mole asses or nauga hydes?
     
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  16. beachcruzer
    Joined: Aug 14, 2015
    Posts: 194

    beachcruzer

    Naugas are now extinct, but there are still plenty of asses
     
  17. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,820

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    I used electrolysis on stuck window regulators before with success, but maybe the washing soda soak did as much good as the electrolysis.

    Gary
     
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  18. rlsteel
    Joined: Apr 10, 2005
    Posts: 513

    rlsteel
    Member

    Antique small engine guys do it that way
     
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  19. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,035

    junkman8888
    Member

    When I was in high-school dad ran a parts store, in the back was a valve-grinder, flywheel-surfacer and hot-tank which was used to clean my brother's disassembled FE engine out of his Galaxy convertible. We loaded the parts up one evening and let the hot-tank run all night to get those parts really clean but when we pulled everything out that next day all the parts were coated with what looked like aluminium, in fact everything that got hot-tanked for the next six months came out coated with what looked like aluminum. Apparently you're not supposed to hot-tank stuff like aluminum pistons and intake manifold filler necks.
     
  20. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 7,175

    73RR
    Member

    Caustic soda likes to eat aluminum. :rolleyes:
     
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  21. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,276

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    I've seen the antique gun (flint lock/percussion cap) guys seem to like boiling their toys in plain water for a few hours, seems to loosen up siezed screws and such pretty well. I've been meaning to try it out, haven't got that far yet.
     
  22. Water is the best rust solvent. But, once you get it loose, got to dry the water out as soon as you can.
     
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  23. Do not put anything aluminum in a caustic tank, it’ll disappear as well as kill the ph in the tank, that’s how we neutralize the fluid in ours for disposal, we put a bunch of old pistons in it
     
  24. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,276

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    Well... That's one way to solve the problem removal of siezed pistons can be! ;)
     
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  25. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 13,174

    Budget36
    Member

    Will eat away cam bearing too I’ve been told.
     
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  26. Won’t eat the cam bearings they will still be there, just not very happy!
    We once put a fan off a corvette in ours not realizing the blades were aluminum (painted black) when we pulled it out a couple days later we had a fan hub.
     
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  27. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can't use a regular hot tank with caustic soda on that one for exactly that reason. Had a kid decide he was going to hot tank an aluminum timing cover once and it was a sad looking piece after it sat in the hot tank overnight.

    55 gallon drums with removable tops aren't real hard to find and if you could find a plastic one it would make an excellent de rust tank to set a block in with a chain hoist or cherry picker. You could also seal it up so your solution didn't evaporate.
    Molasses works pretty good but stinks to beat hell and you don't want it in the shop or close to the house.
    Evapo-Rust is spendy but if you could seal the container you could use it for a long time on lots off stuff before you wore it out. Plus we always have something we could stick in it if we had it in the bottom of a 55 gallon barrel.
     
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  28. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Wow thank you and makes sense
     
  29. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Thank you important to know
     
  30. Flathead Freddie
    Joined: May 9, 2021
    Posts: 806

    Flathead Freddie
    Member

    Water has oxygen so simple but yes need to take over the oven send mom to bingo and the wife to the sewing machine
     

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