Hey guys, I just picked up this pile. Can someone tell me what front axle and spindles these are? The geometry on this thing is a mess. It had 5* negative camber and it was toed in over an inch. The Ackerman is also completely out to lunch. Caster is actually OK at 8* positive. I was able to get the camber back to about 1/2* negative by straightening the axle. During this process I noticed the weld where the axle had been narrowed was cracked. These are just forged steel, correct? I can properly weld it, but I want to be sure of the material first. What camber angle should I ultimately shoot for? How do I go about correcting the Ackerman? Are there different steering arms that would help it? Last, what steering box is this? The ultimate plan is to a put a flathead in it and the box will be right in the way of the exhaust. Any thoughts here? Thanks for any insight!
the steering arms need to be out past the kingpins if the tie rod is in front of the axle. With the way that car is set up, looks like it's probably impossible to move the tie rod back behind the axle. I'd start over....with a bare frame.
That's a 46-47 passenger axle, with what looks like F-1 spindles and brakes on it. Not sure, but those spindles might have a different inclination, so that might be why the camber was so extreme. Or it could be that the axle narrower didn't account for the angle when he chopped a chunk of curve from the middle. The steering box is 60's Mustang. I'm with Squirrel: trash that axle and find a good one that hasn't been cut. Then engineer the steering correctly so you can get correct Ackerman angles. Might be best to use some 37-48 passenger spindles on a new axle. Those F-1 brakes can be adapted with a bearing swap.
On zooming in on that axle narrowing weld it shows the overall thought process that’s been involved in the front end. A wall hanger I’m thinking.
That's just a booger MIG weld I laid on there so I could still move the thing around without worrying about the axle breaking in half. I'm NOT street driving it like this. But you are correct, the weld itself failed, so whoever glued it together didn't know what they were doing. I'm sure I can salvage it, but it could be easier to just start over
i think they are f100 brakes the back plates have been switched side to side ON THE SPINDLES they are on the corrct side, the spindles are not although the same pressing, when drilled for spindle 4 bolt holes they are clock differently left and right. - the back plate will sit more upright the right way around i think you can buy an axle with the king pin incline for f100 spindles? - pete and jakes then simply cut off the old steering arms and bumpy bit and bolt on some ? $$$ it might be a 37-41 axle = narrowed - if its less than 48 inches between the king pin centres it may well be trouble it wont work at all if around 46'' as the wheels will hit the wishbone
Punt the axle. The Ackerman angle guys can be explain the steering link in front. I’ve seen axles professionally welded. This involved heating the axle, welding then adding heat again. The key for welding a forging is slowing the cooling process. I’ve seen forgings cooled in hot ashes before. That’s a very common axle. Find another. That should fix the camber. read this https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cowl-steering-just-stop.1101046/ The thread is authored by one of the best.
I'm inclined to agree with redo32, it's a 37-41 not a 46 I have both in my stash. The 46-47 has a more pronounced drop at the ends. Take squirrel's advice and start over, too many things wrong with that set-up
Well the axle is junk, that is a given but it doesn't have negative camber it has a lot of positive camber. It could well have a lot of negative caster though The scab welded plug for the spring perch looks worse than the weld in the middle of the axle. A search shows that the spindles are indeed F-1. That tab sticking up is for the steering stop when the spindle is used correctly. Along with no Ford Biscuit under the motor mount the way that mount was designed to run that is the first rig I have ever seen a Mustang box (Or Falcon) mounted on top of the frame. Rodders always mount them below the frame on a bracket that puts the top outside bolt beside the frame rail. I've got what is supposed to be a 37/41 Axle out in the garage and it does have a lot of curve in it. With all the scab welding on that rig and the suspect work I'd wonder if it wasn't indeed prudent to salvage what I could and start over. Around here most of those rat rods like that are never street driven because they can't pass inspection and don't have plates or insurance and they are just trailered from show to show. A lot of them have the same scabbed together look though.
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