Technical Worm drive clamps,, ever notice

Man , it’s all about detail , I guess for me . Seems to me if a person cuts corners and uses a clamp two sizes too large for the hose , what else doesn’t matter in the build . If you don’t have enough time to do it correctly and safely why do it ?

 

The problem with the current parts store clamps is that they are all Chineseum junk. The bean counter at work tried that a few years ago and we had several come backs due to shitty clamps. Now we buy them from a local industrial supply house and they are USA made. I also will NOT reuse a worm drive clamp. If I have to take it loose, it gets a new one installed, it’s not worth a comeback for a little tiny savings. On our farm, I buy from McMaster Carr.

 

I only use the worm gear ones on the larger hoses.
These are designed much better

to save you some cash, buy em in bulk from the parts store and not off the shelf.
A box of these with 20 or more cost a few bucks more than the 4 pack they usually come in.
A commercial account will help a bunch at your favorite parts store.

 

I like the long ones, put it on your hose snug it down mark the extra with a marker then take it off cut to size with tin snipes file the burr and reinstall. I get the ones that are way to long that way when you shorten then there is less teeth or threads showing. HOT RODDING MAKE IT FIT

 

I went away from the typical worm drive clamps recently because I was having to scrounge junkyards to even find decent quality! Most the clamps I bought new at auto parts stores were trash that stripped out when I tightened them.
I've been ordering the double wire stainless steel clamps for radiator hoses now. They seal much easier without having to over tighten, and they have a nicer look too. For small fuel lines I use the band clamps, but with the same screw type thread and nut assembly, and not the worm gear.

 

I have been saving all the old good quality clamps off all the core engines etc. that I drag home for many years, and have a couple boxes of them. Occasionally there will be one that was over-tightened and distorted that gets tossed, but most clean up very nicely for re-use, a good job for old toothbrushes. Only ones, other than the small ones for 3/8 lines and such, that I have had to buy new lately were oddball sizes for some antique tractors, ended up being Chineseum and wouldn't take much torque. Those old OEM Ford wire-type clamps, similar to the one above are also pretty durable and clean up well

 

Isn't that a good thing?

 

The other side of the coin is that the worm drive clamp doesn't contract in very cold weather. Apparently the spring type is better at maintaining constant pressure. And preventing careless people from tightening the heck out of the clamps.
I use them where originally used, and worm drive where they are originally used.

British Association size hex?

 

While it results in fukaround time now and then, there's another route if you want a gennie old look. Back in the 60s-70s the OEMs used what I call "tower clamps" where the screw is straight up and pulls the band up. Well it so happens that they were also used in the 30s and 40s by some but a bit more robust in appearance. So what's a builder to do. I got some 1/4-20 fillister head stainless screws and square nuts, shagged some muscle car clamps from NPD, swapped out the screws and nuts from those and gave the clamp a light polish with some mothers. Voila, new clamps on the Packard just like the picture of the real deals. Some used round head screws but Packard used fillisters in a lot of stuff. For those who don't know, fillister heads are tall with a nice sexy flat around the edge of the screw head. Usually seen on carbs in smaller sizes. Head and antlers better than socket/allen heads. Sometimes working on high end stuff can be inspiring. If I have pics on the shop computer later I'll revisit and post em. When details count it's worth the time. And, just because you hid the worm drive doesn't mean it has to be a bitch to get at. Form follows function, and the only knicker twister is how many times you move it around to get it where you want it. There's another .04 cents from yer ol uncle Highlander

 

For hose clamps I go to Pick-N-Pull and head over to the Mercedes/BMW isles. Yep, I use 'used' hose clamps! The high end European cars are loaded with them in every size. One time they charged me 25 cents apiece and another time they just waved me through! They don't lose any clamping force being used and they have louvered slots and beaded edges so they are not easily stripped.



They have the sizes marked on them too.....



Compare the European clamps to generic parts store clamps and you can easily see the difference. Sharp edges on the parts store clamps as opposed to the beaded edges on the European clamps. Punched slots as opposed to louvered slots. Notice they're much thinner too. Far superior to parts store clamps and the price is right!



For fuel lines I always use fuel injection clamps.

 

Hello,

We have all used them at one time or another. Turn the screw in part so it is hidden, but a bear to get to when necessary or just put it on where it can be easily seen and accessible? That is a major question. Most everyone that looks at hot rod motors has an inkling of what they are seeing. A show car may have chromed ones turned and modified so as not to show anything but the band. But for practicality sakes on a mountain highway with a necessary replacement in view, hidden screws are not the answer.

It has been an early custom hot rod trick to turn those screws around and hide them. The knurled grooves looked cool showing on a black hose. But, again, all it took is one time emergency and those “hidden” screws get turned around.

Jnaki

Yes, I agree with @Johnny Gee about Ace Hardware having the most selections in size and quantity. The closed Ace Hardware Store in Point Loma, San Diego was a fabulous place with everything in its place. But, alas, it was too far out of the way for most and closed. Our local Ace Hardware, although smaller than the big box stores has a better feel to shopping there, too.

And @ BLOWBY has a great idea of Phillips head screws, too. It makes things easier…YRMV

I have used these, so, the Flathead screw units got thrown away. It is so much easier during an emergency to use the Phillips Head for grip or removal.

 

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn...amps?navid=12104767#navid=12104767+4287194058
I used some of these. Haven't ordered the larger ones for the rad. hoses yet.

 

No, I don’t think it is.

What seems to happen is that with heat, the rubber hose expands and softens. The clamp doesn’t expand. The rubber flows out from under the clamp. Then as it cools now the clamps is just ever so slightly less tight than it was. Repeat through a bunch of cycles and the clamp loses enough to spring a leak.

I’ve gone over to the newer spring type clamps sourced from the local junkyard. I hit them with some flat black paint to make them less visible. The spring expands and contracts with heat cycles, maintaining clamping pressure on the hose. Since then, I’m no longer finding “loose” clamps by their tellltale drip of coolant on the floor like I was with the worm clamps.

 

I live roughly 120 miles north of San Diego however I know the store your referring to. There's still Coronado Islands Ace. But that's not really why I'm replying.

What happened to using a nut driver and or 1/4 drive socket with stubby 1/4 ratchet?

 

Most if not all my clamps come from cars I have parted out over the years, all ways saved them.

 

I was thinking about this the other night, which tells you how exciting my nights are, and came to the realization that every 3/8" or so of hose diameter change needs about an inch longer clamp (pi and all that..) so a good assortment of lengths is required to maintain the perfect fits.

Nice! Avoids the slipping 2' flat blade on the lower radiator hose syndrome.

 

I completely agree, I never use a screwdriver for hose clamps. It’s always a nut driver or 1/4” ratchet and socket. There are too many other, more interesting ways to hurt myself than with a screwdriver and hose clamp.

 

1/4 drive with extension and swivel if needed.

 

I always have a hell of a time trying to cut them. I use my small angle grinder if it will fit...

 

The shears will cut them just fine, then sand the edges smooth. Cut at the joints.

 

If you have the right tool with the swivel ends to remove them they are great and you can hide the ends.

 

I only use nos clamps............. Really, I just have a small container of good used USA clamps. I also used t bolts, more $$$, but hold tight.

 

The hose clamps that some guys are posting here are horrible, stainless steel or not. They have the holes through the band that basically cut the hose when you tighten them up and the rubber squeezes through the slots.

I don’t like the wire style hose clamps or the heat shrink one’s either most of them lead to damaged hoses if you need to remove them.

If they sell them in the hardware store or even the auto parts store they’re junk.

An industrial hose supplier can hook you up with the good stuff.

ABA stainless steel gear clamps.
I only use these clamps.
Top quality and they don’t have any holes through them to cut the hose.

http://www.normaamericasds.com/brand/aba

 

If one has to tighten a hose clamp so the rubber oozes out the slots like a Play Dough Factor to get things sealed up something wrong.

 

Yeah the hose clamps are fucked up.
But That’s just ONE of the issues.