Headed to junk yard and was wondering if you guys could suggest what to look for. I need a drive shaft 55 inches in length that would accept a GM 27 spline yoke and also use a universal joint that would work with a 8 inch ford rear pinion yoke or do I need to have a drive shaft made? Thanks
It would help if you are a bit more specific about your measurements. Learn about the different u joint sizes. 1310 is common series of Ujoint, the caps are 1-1/16" OD, overall width 3.22", and was used with many Chevy transmission yokes and Ford 8" yokes. But there were different style ujoints used in different applications, so you need to really know what you need and what you're looking at at the junkyard. Also, it's common to measure driveshaft length by center to center distance. And to get the number for the length you need, it's a good idea to have the transmission yoke first. Put it into the transmission all the way, then pull it out 3/4" to 1". Now measure the center to center distance between the transmission yoke, and the rear pinion yoke. Make sure the car is sitting on it's suspension, so the length will be correct when the car is driving (don't have the frame on stands, with the rear hanging down, for example) Also check any used driveshaft carefully for dents...if the car was picked up with a fork lift, the driveshaft might be junk now.
You need to know what size cross the Ford 8 inch that YOU HAVE takes. One cannot assume that all 8 inch rears take the same cross. It looks like the cross for the rear end of the drive shaft can either measure 3.219 with a 1.062 bearing cap or measure 3.622. On the front end you may need a combination joint to hook the Chevy yoke you have to the Ford Driveshaft.
I thought I had the driveshaft out of the 79 Mercury Monarch that my daughter used to have that had an 8 inch in it but a trip out to the sheds didn't produce it. My friend in town that has a wrecking yard that actually has some old stuff in it has a bin/barrel that they put all of the driveshafts they pull out of rigs in. That takes a bit of knowing what you are looking at to find one that works.
I have gotten a few here: http://www.colemanracing.com/Driveshaft-Steel-3-1310-P6481.aspx You can get a 27-spline 1310 yoke for the transmission. The 8-inch likely has a 1310, or a "big-cap" Ford joint, which is like a 1310, but with a little bigger cap on the pinion yoke. You will need to measure and tell us.
You can probably find a driveshaft in a junk yard, have it modified to the length you want, and get by for less money than having one made from scratch. That’s what I did for a Model A. However, I didn’t save all that much money over a new one, and a new one would be better. You can check local driveline shops or even the Speedway catalog for custom driveshafts. John
A Ford "big-cap" joint is: 1.0625" = dia of 2 caps 1.125" = dia of 2 caps 3.25" = Across the caps A regular 1310 is: 1.0625" = dia of all 4 caps 3.25" = Across the caps A 1330 is: 1.0625" = dia of all 4 caps 3.625" = Across the caps
I used to get driveshafts by digging through the huge stack at the junkyard, finding the right length and U-joint size. It used to be $20 or $25 back in the '90s, but I think those stacks of old driveshafts are probably mostly gone now. I guess I was just too cheap or poor to pay to buy one then have it shortened. As others have mentioned, you will need a conversion U-joint at one end. This may be an expensive piece, so if you got a custom driveshaft you could deduct that extra cost, if you had the desired U-joint pattern put on the end. There's lots of aluminum driveshafts at the yard now, too.
Look up the Car Quest pdf catalog online, it tells you everything you need for figuring out u-joint selection and a lot more. It has a ton of cross reference between brands too, Spicer, NEAPCO, etc. I had one made locally for my Ford, I supplied the Powerglide yoke. I had it in 4 days and it ran me $300, all name brand parts including the flanges.
I wish I could find a barrel of drive shafts to go thru, the local yards look at me like I'm crazy (maybe I am) when I ask about drive shafts. I'm gonna keep digging and THANKS for the info.
There is a little bit of info about driveshaft lengths on the web, but mostly for specific things, such as A body mopars, 80s ford trucks, etc. I haven't seen a comprehensive list anywhere. But, if you look for vehicles with a wheelbase similar to yours, and from the same era (within a decade) of when the transmission/rear end were used, you should at least get close. Finding one the exact length you need rarely happens, in my experience. Which wasn't a problem back when I could buy a used shaft for $20 and get it cut to length for another $20. lately, I've bought a few brand new ones, made to my spec, for about $300. Things ain't what they used to be.
And of course back when we were 20 years old, spending a day or two visiting several junkyards and digging through a lot of stuff, to save the cost of a new driveshaft made more financial sense than it does now.
when I was 20 years old, I was working at a junkyard....and I still had to get them cut to fit right....
Doesn't really matter what the driveline came out of, especially if you're going Chevy yoke on one end, and ford yoke at the axle. I just take my driveline to the local driveline shop and tell them what yoke I want up front, (or give them the yoke) and then tell them what rear axle I'm using. When they build it they will install new U joints, and often those are adapter joints so one side of the U joint fits the driveline, and the other side bolts up to the rear axle yoke, or accepts a Ford flange; whichever I need. All I really am concerned with is the donor driveline is long enough to fit, or longer so it can be shortened. But by chance my last two drivelines didn't need cutting at all! One was in my Falcon gasser with a 468 BBC, Super T10 four speed, and 8.8" Ford rear axle. A 1st Gen. Camaro/Firebird driveline was the perfect length, and front yoke. They only needed to do an adapter joint at the rear for the Ford flange. The 2nd is my current '39 Chev coupe with SBC 350, 700R4, and 8.8" Ford rear axle. I used a stock 3rd Gen. Camaro V8 driveline, and adapter joint to fit the Ford flange.
If you can find a drive shaft that has rear joint to fit 8 inch. Then find a Chevy yoke for your trans. Drive shaft shop will cut shaft to length, then use they use an offset front u joint to adapt Chevy front yoke to driveshaft, finally balance. Good advice when buying a rear axle is to try to get the driveshaft from donor also.
My coupster has the front half of a Ford van driveshaft. Same U-joint front and rear matching an 8" rear and an old course spline Powerglide. The 57 PU has a Firebird driveshaft with mix and match U-joints (both for cap diameter, cross length and internal/external clips) to match a Turbo 400 and a 9". One advantage I can see to having a shaft made, is it can be made using commonly available U-joints so if you need one in the town of Resume Speed you won't spend your vacation waiting for their weekly parts delivery.
Best bet is to get a drive shaft that will take one yoke or the other, get it cut length and use a bastard joint on the end that doesn't match the other yoke.
My '55 F100 has a SBC with 350 T.H.; a donor '66 Chev Monte Carlo driveline fit right in, rear U joint also fit my '60 Ford F100 9" rear. Customer's '55 Ford Panel truck received a SBF with C4 tranny, he offered a Ford Granada driveshaft, after I planted engine & tranny. It fit like it was made for it...even to the seal impression fitting the same depth. Just imagine... LOL Neophytes act confused about "the Chevy in my Ford truck"... I tell them it's the 2nd oldest trick from prostitution: (it's all in the driveshaft...)
We made them all the time with the stock cars since we were always broke. I had a blow-proof $25 Lakewood u-joint at the rear of the shaft... last lap at Islip the joint blew, cost me a nice finish and tore the ears off the yoke. Had to make another one... used a cheap Car Quest joint from then on.
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