Looking to Get Started...

I realize yours is metal, but most glass roadsters have a metal bar behind the dash, running from one side to the other. It helps stiffen up the entire cowl section for sure and helps to minimize "cowl shake". A bulkhead behind the cockpit between the interior and the trunk will go a long way in adding some structural stability to the whole car.

 

once all the repairs are made to the body, and the body is properly mounted to the chassis they are "fine". boxing the chassis will improve it.

 

Thanks Joey! Very excited to get the new/old windshield frame.

 

That's kinda/sorta what I did on my coupe Don. When I rewired and moved the battery up front, I put a piece of angle iron across the back side of the firewall - from brace to brace. Gave me a place to hang the battery, place to mount terminal blocks and a wiring channel.....and really stiffened the body.

 

Thanks Don and tb33anda3rd! I was thinking the same thing. Should I get the measurements or just eyeball it? Hate to permanently stiffen the cowl and bulkhead without the proper dimensions. TM

 

Joe Blow- I like the angle iron solution. What did you do behind the seat?

 

Thanks man. Metal bulkhead between the trunk and interior.

 

Found these at a flee market for $1. Seems like good flare for ‘Ratty’.

 

Cool Doodle Bugs at the Flee Market/Tractor Pull.

 

I worked this evening on the Roadster. I’d say the motor runs great; however, the steering and front end are shot. Steering box would need a complete rebuild and I’m not sure that would do it. The king pins have excessive play. I also see movement in the spring perch radius rod areas.

I think my priorities right now are to:
1. Fix the steering by either finding a better condition model a box or swap over to F1 steering if I can find something.
2. Replace much of the front end with the Okie Joe drop axle I have for my coupe. I have new 32 spindles, spring perches, and king pins all set up with the axle.
3. Get a seat.
4. Clean and seal the fuel tank.
5. Fix the brakes.
6. Fix the windshield. I should be getting my Ukrop replacement frame sometime this week

I still need to make some decisions.
-Do I work on the mech brakes or start the move now to juice? I don’t have any of the juice parts.
-F1 steering now or just get a model a box? Same. I dont have the F1 parts.
-Take my fuel tank somewhere to clean and seal or try to do it myself?

I still would like to get the roadster on the road soon with the banger and do the A-V8 build over the winter.

Open to your recommendations. TM

 

A few things. First, I went through all the adjustments on my two tooth steering box and then added oil. The oil pretty much ran right through.

Then I realized that the drag link and tie rod have been wearing against other for some time now. Maybe a shorter pitman arm would solve this.

 

Also started cutting some unneeded riveted parts off the frame.

 

Started the effort to clean the inside of the gas tank. Added 16 bolts to help with the process. First, one gallon of lacquer thinner. Shook. Drained. Next, 2 gallons of gas. Shook. Drained. X 4. Then dish soap and water. Rinsed x?? Then one gallon of Evaporust. Turned it about every hour.
I plan to let it sit in the bottom tonight and then turn it several times tomorrow. Will that be enough? I doubt it. I have Red Kote once it’s ready to seal.

 

I would avoid the sealer unless you cut the tank apart and blast the inside to make sure you have ALL the mess out. sealer over loose scale or crud will break loose and cause a worse problem.
you could clean it the best you can and install the original type shut off with a short stand pipe. this will pick fuel up above the bottom of the tank, so any remaining or anything else that breaks loose won't go down the pipe.

 

here is a look at the baffles. don't cut open the face side like this.

 

Thanks for the advice! Not a moment too soon. I will just try my best to clean it up and remove as much rust as I can. I may have to get more rust remover as I am not confident one applications going to be enough for this one.

Not sure about the valve and the stand up pipe. This is the 31 that has a pipe and valve outside the firewall.

 

Whatever you you do do not use Muriatic Acid.
Oh it'll get rid of the rust but.....
It's too hot. That stuff is for cleaning concrete.
Muriatic Acid will also chlorinate the steel. It's like bleach, not on the steel, but in it. It cleans it but eventually it'll rust and rust away very rapidly.

 

More great advice. I’d be making mistakes left and right without you guys. Thanks!

 

My plan is to rinse the evaporust out with water later today or tomorrow morning, dry the tank with a heat gun, coat the inside with Marvel Mystery Oil to keep from flash rusting, and then install it and start using it. Good plan?

 

Something that alludes me…. Lots of talk about using a ‘T’ spring in the rear… sounds good…
Where are all these ‘T’ springs? Where do I get mine? TM

 

They're talking about a Model T spring. A modified (less leafs) reversed eye Model T spring lowers the rear end about 2 1/2" from stock.

 

Thanks for the response Joe Blow - I understand what it is. I have seen threads where people are saying they are laying around all over the place. Where can I get one? Used?

 

UPS guy brought my @J.Ukrop deluxe windshield frame today!
Also got a cool old post card from Magic Mountain

 

...........Eaton Detroit Spring would be the first place I would look. Posie's maybe as well. I don't know where to look for a used (real) T spring.

 

Thanks Don. Yeah… same here. I thought maybe there was some treasure trove of T Springs that I didn’t know about. Didn’t they make about 15 million T’s?

 

Doh!......sorry bout that.....was taking it literally. There was a member on here a couple of years ago selling new modified T springs for lowering the rear end. Can't remember who it was.

 

It was 100% Matt.....last post.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/aftermarket-model-t-rear-spring-option.960849/