Projects Southeast Gassers 65 Comet Super Stock Wagon

351 distributor and oil pump are the way to go then cut down the shaft.

 

How do you post a video on here? I have one from my Friday night run.

 

The only way I know to do it - upload the video to youtube and then paste the link.

 

Ok thanks. Raining all day today and I have to pull the motor half in and half out of the garage and then move it to my shed to work on it.
It sucks , but we need the rain and so it is good for the farmers and the golf course.
I won't melt .I might float though.

 

That is the only way to post a video

 

I 'm sure one of the teenagers at the golf course can handle the U Tube posting for you. Easy peasy.

 

got the motor out and on the engine stand pulled the pan and the oil pump had snapped of and was laying in the pan. bearings look good.

 

I just saw that someone was manufacturing an oil pump for the sbf that had a mounting boss twice as thick as a stocker to combat breakage. If I remember correctly he was a big name Ford builder but I'm having a brain fart for his name.

 

Sorry I was thinking BB.

 

Mike, what brand of oil pump are you using? Did the pump lock up?

 

Wondering if that distributor roll pin had anything to do with this or vice versa...........
Take the cover off the pump?

Joe

 

Might need to blueprint the next one............I think Melling is still the preferred pump.(I believe they DO make a stock replacement AND a racing grade one, not sure)
Don't forget the HD driveshaft for it............
6sally6

 

That was going to be my question too.
The last think you want to see, good you caught it in time Mike.
I recall Melling having breakage issues on small block Chevy's for a while, cost cutting?
Bought them for years, not so sure now.

 

I use a Melling pump in my 289 with the ARP drive. I cant remember if a HD or HV. Ive used Melling HV pumps in my BB mopars for 35 years.

 

The answers to your questions are yes and there was nothing in the pump and no signs of anything ever getting into the pump. It was a standard Melling pump that I did all of the race prep I always do to make sure it is smooth and not jerky like a lot of stock pumps. It had a little over 60 lbs of pressure when I left the pits. I only drove it about 100 ft. before I noticed no pressure and that was idling.
It still turns real smooth and yes I believe the broken roll pin had something to do with the broken pump. I am just lucky the pump didn't get caught between the block and the crank.
I had an ARP drive shaft and it is bent on the bottom end but not twisted.
I will be installing new bearings , polishing the crank even though the bearings don't look hurt. A new pump another heavy duty shaft and maybe a new dist. Just out of caution.

 

Could this be due to the camshaft change you were talking about earlier? There seems to be a progression of problems that are linked. Thinking about a possible initial source or cause. Might be more than a simple failure, easy to overlook. I overthink things at times when the wallet comes out, considering all possibilities. It has led me to very simple solutions at times

Joe

 

It is torn down to the long block with the cam out. I will probably just scotch brite the bearings and put it back together.
The main's look perfect , the rods have a few little lines, but will clean up. The crank is smooth so I am not going to take it out.
Just clean everything and put my new cam in and new oil pump and shaft.
Got a real nice big solid roller for a Windsor if anybody needs one send me a pm and we will talk about it.

 

I'd definitely look the bottom of distributor over...

 

So what's different on the new cam vs the old one and whats your thinking on why the change?

 

The old cam was too big for it to work with a dual plane intake. I tried advancing the cam 6 degrees and it got better, but not enough. The old cam needed a tunnel ram and 2 carbs to breathe at 9 k rpm's and with a dual plane you are done at 7500.
After talking to all of my Ford racer friends that build a lot of engines for SEGA cars they are all in agreement that I need to back down on the cam. Less lift and duration.

 

My new friend Rob sent me a Comp cam ,should be here Friday. It is more in line to what I need..
Swapped him some parts he needed for his build and we all work together to build our hot rods.

 

Curious........what were the specs on the old cam VS the new cam?!
6sally6

 

You have been turning that small block 9000 rpm, do you have a stock block or aftermarket?

 

I will let you know when I get the cam card in my hand. I can't remember exactly but they were very close to the Lunati cam I was going order.
It is a stock 1965 289 block bored .040 with one sleeve and no stud girdle and just ARP main bolts.
No I haven't been turning it 9,000 , but it has bumped the 8200 chip a few times.
It's a good thing I have more time than money . I pulled all of the rod and main caps today and found one rod bearing and one main bearing that would have grabbed the crank had I not caught it and clicked it off. I have the crank out and am taking it to my friends shop tomorrow night so he can polish the journals. I had a new set of main bearings and need to order a set of rod bearings. Another Hamber helped me out with a heavy duty oil pump driveshaft. It came in the mail today.

 

rlsteel is the man !! He sent me the oil pump driveshaft.

 

You should look into Main and lifter valley girdle.

 

For what ? The only reason it broke this time is a broken oil pump and Ford didn't make that, Melling did.
I ran a 65 289 for years and beat on it everyday and it had the stock rods and rod bolts. Stock crank and main bolts. I had a big flat tappet solid lifter cam in it and turned the poor little motor 7 grand everyday of it's life.
The later model Glass blocks need all that stuff, but the earlier ones with real lifter valleys and some thick cast iron in the bottom don't scare me. I have a spare 289 block and a Mexican block.
For what I am doing they will be fine.

 

Good luck

 

Fudging engineering safety factors is at the heart of all racing. Why you sign a disclaimer before you step foot on a track. Don't need luck. Need moolah to stay out of the fudge.

Joe

 

I thought an aftermarket block , and build a big bore 347 . That's 2k that I don't have to spend to go a little faster. I haven't worked the bugs out of the combo I have now. I know there's at least a half second , maybe more in what I have. Just need to get all of the parts dialed in. That's why the cam change.
A dual quad intake would be a step in the right direction. I am eventually going to build a set of big tube headers. That should be worth some power.
I could go crazy and build an FE . $$$