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Projects 1951 Chevy Bel Air gasser style Hot Rod build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hot Rod Dan, Aug 14, 2017.

  1. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    I'd actually wanted a 51 Bus Coupe since about 1968, and finally got one in about 2013; wanted a car as old as I am. Then, when I was losing interest, I gave it to my nephew, and we built it into a "Street Gasser"; when he lost interest, due to starting a business, he gave it back. I was committed to a couple of other projects, and it had to go. Had it been a few months earlier, I'd still have it. The car is still somewhat local, so there may be a chance one day. There's actually a YouTube video of it posted by the car dealership. That Richmond 5 speed you have, be careful with it; they're really hard to find parts for, even from Richmond.
    I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2021
    Thor1 likes this.
  2. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    I may have figured out my clutch pedal linkage. I've never done this before so if I’m off, I’m sure someone will let me know. Also I'm hoping this write up will help somebody else.

    I started out by mounting the clutch linkage bell crank. The front block pivot hole is in the way of the steering linkage. The rear hole is in the way of the clutch and brake pedal travel. So I made a bracket that bolts to both holes and locate the bell crank pivot between the two.

    IMG_4393.JPG

    I made another bracket that bolts to the frame and holds the bell crank horizontal.


    IMG_4391.JPG
    Fortunately, hardtop frames have a reinforcement plate welded in the top of the top hat section, which gives you material to drill and tap. I cut the arms off an old bell crank and made new arms from quarter inch plate and tack welded them in place. Put a grade 5 bolt in the drill press, while using a hand grinder, turned the bolt head into a mushroom shape for the throwout fork (sorry, no lathe). Used chrome Molly tubing, inserts and rod ends like an article I saw online.

    IMG_4399.JPG

    Mounting the clutch throwout linkage rod horizontally at mid travel, put it about 3.25 inches below bell crank centerline. I read somewhere on the HAMB that mechanical advantage should be about 10 or 11 to 1, so I mounted the clutch pedal to bell crank linkage at 4.25 inches below bell crank centerline.

    IMG_4316.JPG

    So, let’s do some practical math (or as they say on the Red Green Show, “If the women don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy”, lol.)

    The throw out fork distance from pivot point to each end is about 7 and 3 inches, 7/3=2.33
    Bell crank is adjustable, current distance from center to each pivot is 4.25/3.25=1.31
    Clutch pedal distance from pedal to pivot and linkage hole to pivot are 10/3=3.33
    Total leverage (if I have this correct and didn’t muck it up) =10.17

    McLeod says the throwout bearing needs to move .440 inch once it reaches the fingers to disengage the clutch and there should be an air gap of about .150 inch. So total throwout bearing movement would be .590 inches.


    So if my math is right? 10.17 Total leverage x .590" Throwout bearing movement = 6.0" Pedal travel

    My total available clutch pedal travel is about 6.25 inches. Which is almost all the available travel I have. If this is not right someone let me know. It's all tacked together and can easily be modified.

     
  3. Fitty Toomuch
    Joined: Jun 29, 2010
    Posts: 328

    Fitty Toomuch
    Member
    from WVa

    If it works, it works... carry on.
     
  4. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    In life and hot rods, that seems to work out best! ;)
     
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  5. 4tford
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,824

    4tford
    Member

    Nice work, brings back memories of the cars back in the 60's running at Detroit dragway.
     
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  6. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks, just tryin to enjoy & hang on to something from the past.
     
  7. Truckedup
    Joined: Jul 25, 2006
    Posts: 4,661

    Truckedup
    Member

    The dual disc should be a lighter on the foot....Try out what you got and if you need mor travel, play with the linkage ratio..Doing a decent job...
     
    seb fontana and Thor1 like this.
  8. HOLLYWQQD
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 722

    HOLLYWQQD
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from central NY
    1. New York H.A.M.B.ers

    I wish I had someone close to me doing a 50/51 ish gasser ! I’ve got a chopped 50 coupe project I bought that has a beautiful 1 piece steel tilt front end and I want to swap it for traditional separate hood/fenders ! 4E0BC316-3F87-448B-908B-8C7A95553E6D.jpeg
     
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  9. 4tford
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,824

    4tford
    Member

    Me too, I have a 63 dodge because of the 60's race cars. We ran hot rod class back then and also gas class with our 50's fords and chevies.
     
    enloe likes this.
  10. Fender Banger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2012
    Posts: 197

    Fender Banger
    Member

    Looks like a Plan to me !
     
  11. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks. I think you're right about the pedal effort. The diaphragm pressure plate should also help. Years ago I put a heavy duty Zoom Borg & Beck style pressure plate in a car I had. It gave your left leg a really good workout, lol.
     
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  12. 52lomofo
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 788

    52lomofo

    what size are those rear wheels and tires ?
     
  13. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    They are BFG 285/70R15s on torq thrust 15x10.

    I just used them to mock up some wheels & tires to look at stance/ride height. They're not on the car now, but if I remember they did rub & I'll probably need to radius the wheelwells to make a decent size tire fit.
     
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  14. shtbox
    Joined: Jun 22, 2008
    Posts: 98

    shtbox
    Member

    I just found this build. What a nice job! I have a 52 fleetline that I plan to build a street gasser out of (not a monster truck) and Im installing a 51 chevy truck axle as well. Any pics of your ride height with those speedway front springs? Thanks for sharing your pics and info
     
  15. Brian Penrod
    Joined: Apr 19, 2016
    Posts: 216

    Brian Penrod
    Member

  16. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,200

    Ghost28
    Member

    There was a old 51 hardtop like yours that ran around denver- aurora colo. I t was real fast and the owner named it double ugly
     
  17. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    I haven't done a mock up with drivetrain installed. Once I do I'll roll it outside for pics. I just finished narrowing a 9" housing. Now I need to assemble the center chunk.

    Thanks.

    I hope this thing will be quick, and once I get rid of the old paint & surface rust it should be half as ugly. :D
     
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  18. dido
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 16

    dido
    Member
    from omaha ne

     
  19. dido
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 16

    dido
    Member
    from omaha ne

    How can I contact hot rod Dan?
     
  20. Conversation on Hamb. Are I’ll call him tell him to contact you
     
  21. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    I need to get back on this project & update this thread with progress since my last post.

    I did remove the rear leaf springs, pry off the factory sheet metal wrap and disassemble using a couple C clamps. After inspecting all the pieces I found none were bent or cracked and decided to do a slight re-arch following a YouTube video. Using a few cheapo grinders I cleaned the individual leaves and ground/polished the backside of each end so they'd slide more easily (also polished out wear divots). Then a couple new center bolts, bushings, assembly and a little paint.
    010.jpg
    020.jpg
    030.jpg
    035.jpg
    040.jpg
    045.jpg
    050.jpg
     
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  22. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    Rear axle assembly - I built up the rear axle assembly as money, parts, time and motivation allowed. I wanted a 1957-1959 Ford car rear housing with a smooth back and drain plug like I've got in another car, but they're getting hard to find. I was able to find an early 60's pickup rear housing which is very similar, except it's got an extra fill hole, dimples and no drain plug. So I cleaned it up and got it ready to narrow.

    rear 001.JPG
    A while back I narrowed the housing (did a write up, reusing the factory Ford housing ends). Note: if you don’t clean up the housing end flanges on a lathe, the bearing surface may not be centered in the tube. However, my axle tubes weren’t straight (most are bent 1/8-1/4”). So I clocked the ends correctly for the brakes, tack welded them in and straightened the housing tubes to make the housing end bearing surfaces centered to the axle centerline.

    Last year a friend of mine showed me how to assemble a center chunk. So I refreshed my memory with a YouTube video and built up the center using a Detroit truetrac limited slip (did change the backlash from 12 to 9, as someone suggested).

    rear 002.JPG

    I filled the dimples & extra fill hole in the housing with 3/16" steel plate, bondo & paint. Also cut a hole & added a bung & magnetic drain plug (I had to tap the weld bung thread deeper so it didn't look like an outie belly button).

    rear 004.JPG

    rear 003.JPG

    Then assembled everything and did the 2 floor jack dance while installing it.

    rear 005.JPG

    Got to keep motivated so someday I can drive this bucket of rust.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 20, 2023
  23. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    Lakewood (style) Traction Bars - I wanted these to fit the era (late 60s/early 70s) of this build. Not the universal ones, but the ones that replace the lower spring & shock mounts and look like this:

    a.JPG

    But they had to fit the more narrow early Chevy leaf spring (1.75" instead of 2.5" wide) and I wanted the snubber right under the front spring eye. So I went to the local steel yard and picked up some 2.5"x1.5" rectangular tubing.

    b.JPG

    And I found a chunk of 6"x4"x1/4" wall tubing for the lower spring / shock mount in the drop bin.

    c.jpg

    d.jpg

    e.jpg

    h2.JPG

    And drilled holes forward of the axle centerline to work with the 51 Chevy springs.

    e2.jpg

    g.jpg

    Now I'm thinking I need to have the car at ride height and set the air gap before I finish weld them. Then will give them some yellow paint and repop stickers.
     
  24. Ericnova72
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 595

    Ericnova72
    Member
    from Michigan

    One tip to add to your leaf spring rejuvenation for drag use....other than the main leaf, turn every other leaf around in the stack....put each leaf's longer section from pin hole to leaf tip so that it supports the front half of the spring pack better.
    Normally, the longer half is the back half, for ride quality.
    This is an old Super Stocker trick from way back for leaf springs and slapper bars, it helps stiffen the overworked front half of the spring
     
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  25. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    Thanks, good advice. Any thoughts on how big (1/4", 1/2") the air gap should be between the traction bar rubber snubber and the leaf spring?
     
  26. 427 sleeper
    Joined: Mar 8, 2017
    Posts: 2,866

    427 sleeper
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you don't mind a slightly harsh ride, I'd run it ball's tight. Other than that a 1/2" is good.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2023
  27. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,428

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    Love this build, stance is going to be perfect. What year front axle was that? This is about the same way I want to do my 57.
     
    427 sleeper likes this.
  28. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,107

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    That is nice work !
     
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  29. Hot Rod Dan
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Hot Rod Dan
    Member
    from Texas

    Thank you for the advice.

    Was told the axle is from a 51 Chevy truck. I think 1947 to early 1955 are the same. Measures 50" king pin to king pin center and leaf spring center bolt when mounted on the axle are about 27" apart.

    Thanks.
     
    Thor1 likes this.

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