If the impact screwdriver won't get them, heat them red without melting and let them cool. Usually they will come loose then.
I drilled about a 1/2" hole in some flat bar about an inch or so wide. Held it centered on the screw head and welded through the hole to the screw. Used the flat bar for leverage and screwed them out. Dave Like this!
If you have got an Air Chisel Hammer you could use a Mayhew 37316 bit with a impact screw driver bit.
I watched Matt at Iron Trap Garage use one of these on old, crusty screws and it worked very well. I just bought one. Now I have to find an old, crusty screw to remove.
I tried nearly everything on my old pickup but nothing worked until I tried this method. It worked well. Have used this method on several occasion since.
I wound up drilling mine out, refurbing the nut plates and using new screws. On the next one, I'll try the impact screwdriver method.
Going back a few years, SamIyam had a great write-up on making and using your own impact extractor: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-tip-309-rusty-screw-removal-made-easy.6015/
I have found that it sometimes works to try to tighten the screw first. With or without using an impact driver that, along with a bit of Kroil and patience usually works.
If a impact driver does not do it try heating up the screw red hot , then quench it with cool water. That will shock the area causing them to release. If that does not work then , Mig weld a large flat washer through the center of the washer to the screw , then weld a rod coupler ( looks like a long nut ) to the washer . put a socket and wrench on the assembly and will screw right out. Vic
After SamIyam posted that trick years ago I made one and it worked wonders. Either buy one from Eastwood or make your own.
Me too!. it has worked on those bastard tailgate hinge screws as well! The manufacturers in the 50's-70's must of had a "formula" for doing up hinge screws which meant that they were practically unremovable!
I have heated them cherry red and then they can be screwed out with a large phillips. Do one at a time. The heat causes them to free up.
Any rusted/stuck bolt I’ve used heat on, I always let it cool to the touch. Never tried to quench it. My thought is/was once I took the torch away the heat keeps moving and the bolt continues to expand. The once it contracts it breaks the bond. Besides, if I have a few to do, it’s a good excuse to grab a cold one while it cools off.
I bought and used this tool to replace the door latch on my 41 ply.Removed every screw except the one I striped the head on 30 years ago.Worth the money.
I've comparatively recently begun to have the use of one of these babies. Packs quite a punch with the impact action. Multiplicity of uses including small sockets. I have a manual impact screwdriver and air hammer but this driver has become first choice. Blasts huge screws into timber too. Good for gently stuff too. Wouldn't be without one now! Chris
Studebaker's rusted badly..........the hammer driven device didn't work, heat and the air chisel with adapted screw driver bits as noted above worked very well. I did NOT use Phillips screws but went to an allen screw head and put anti sieze on everyone as I reassembled it so the next guy won't have so much trouble removing them.
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