Technical ***May 2021 Banger Meet Thread - Great Shop Weather***

Daniel,
yes, that is a G28 no doubt. The oiling system has a steel pipe under the lifter floor next to the cam.
If you drop the pan you will see it. If I recall correctly, the exterior plug below the side cover is the port that feeds the internal pipe. Must remove pump to see behind it. There should be another plug inside on a vertical port directly below the pipe.
John

 

John, thank you so much for your input.
I checked my old pictures and found the pipe you're talking about. So far so good.

Today I tried to figure out if the oil pump feed the pipe/cam/crank correctly. I removed the distributor cap, spark plugs and pulled the starter several times. While I was doing that I filmed the valve train. But after all no oil flow was visible.

The engine was build by a professional engine shop some months ago. They mounted a high volume pump from Bill Stipes. And made a short test run.

My worry - the G28 oil pump got a recess on the top. I'm wondering if the shop machined these recess in the high volume pump?

Is there any chance to check the oiling system without dropping the pan? The G28 pan is huge and I'm not able to drop w/o removing the wishbone...

Shouldn't I see some kind of oilflow around the valve lifter after pulling the starter 3 or 4 times in a row?

I'll try to attache some more pictures for clarification and entertainment



Sent from my LYA-L09 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

And a picture of the tube.

Sent from my LYA-L09 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Daniel,
I don't think you will see any oil up in the galley just from a little cranking.
If I remember correctly, the lifters are hollow on the cam side. This allows for the natural pumping action to push oil up to the top of the lifter, there should be a small hole in the side of the lifter exposed when the valve opened.
That may be a problem since the lifters have been changed to adjustable.

You may be able to see a relief cut in the top of the pump housing if you take the plug out of the side of the block.


John

 

The front engine mount was made by Max

 

New day - new observations.

Tried to find out if there's a relief or not without dropping the pan.

Managed to light up my borescope and unscrewed the pump holding screw on the side of the block. After many tries I made some pictures. Hopefully you can see the billet pump housing and the brass "triangle".

I couldn't see if there's an relief or not.
So I tried to poke with some 90 degree bend wire. On top and bottom I was able do insert the wire completely ~5/16" (green area) . On the left and right side was impossible (red area).

So what is the conclusion now? Am I good? Got my engine oil pressure? Should I fire it up for running in? Questions over Questions

Sent from my LYA-L09 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Finally starting

 

I

Sport Coupe? Yeah,do one,so you can say you did one...dont mind if they give you that look..just tell them stupid is as stupid does..

 

Thanks Jiminy
I posted from fone sideways, as I drive

 

Daniel
I was thinking about it today
The real answer is to drop the pan and verify
They may have drilled a hole on the back side of the pump to feed oil
Can you ask the shop who put it together

best of luck John

 

My opinion.....
If she has developed serious interest, make sure that you involve her in ALL aspects of the equipment she likes. Dont get too technical, without her knowing specs and how they compare with other makes of similar equipment!
The more interest she shows, all the better.
Maybe she will show interest in one style car than others. She may be interested in building her own car... with your knowledge and help !!
Id encourage her interest asap.

 

Would you banger guys call this terminal? I’ve read all about stitching as a repair, just not sure what you could get away with. #3 exhaust valve,, living in hope.

 

I wouldn't automatically condemn the block. 70 years ago when every junk yard had a pile of worn out A and B engines you couldn't see over was a different story.

I owned a commercial welding shop in the 90's and repaired quite a few more modern engines with a TIG rod from Rockmount that was fantastic. It was machinable and very easy to weld with, never had any cracking of the base metal alongside the weld bead and didn't require a lot of preheat. That was almost 30 years ago, so I'm sure there are even better products available now.

I would find a good welding shop and get it repaired.

 

Need to see how far it goes under the valve but it is doable....depending how it looks under the valve.

 

Id be curious where it really begins and ends. Does it get into the cylinder? Hard to tell just looking, but it could.

 

Thanks for the replies, I will go to my engine machine shop and see what they say.
The block and caps plus big end Babbitt is in great condition, it has large inlet valves and a B crank fitted hence the concern .
If it was a standard block it would not matter so much but with the work that was put into this makes it worth saving if possible.
Just replacing the block isn’t an option.

 

Put a seat on the valve and sleeve the cylinder..pin the crack..pretty common with B blocks

 

Anyone know of anyone that fabricates an intake/exhaust for a 181 mercruiser 3.0L motor? I do not own a welder, nor can I adapt it to fit the outlet in my rental property. I heard offenhauser and clifford used to make them. Clifford still makes the 153.

Can the 153 chevy ii intakes work on the mercruiser? I heard the ports are bigger on the mercruiser.

Anyone holding onto an offenhauser or clifford intake for a 181?

 

You might want to ask in the 4 cylinder mercruiser-engined cars thread
Jim

 

The June 2021 Banger Meet is ready for you https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ger-meet-thread-hows-your-4-cylinder.1231720/

 

Anyone recognize this head? Seems to have a raised stamped area that is different. I still can’t make out the letters/numbers. I think it may say “MADE IN USA”.

 

not an expert in any way , but could be stock head

 

Yeah. I don’t know. I have a few other Model A heads that I thought were stock and they don’t have that raised area.
Wonder about the weird light green color.

 

Here's something I've found.

MF 1 1930s aftermarket head
4 stud water pump
Marked "MF 1", and "Made in USA" on top
Compression Ratio N/A

F1 MF 1930s aftermarket head
4 stud water pump
Marked "F1", "MF", and "Made in USA" on top
4.2 :1

A6050A 1940s aftermarket head
4 stud water pump
Marked "A6050A" and "Made in USA" on top
4.2 :1

F2 MF 1930s aftermarket head
4 stud water pump
Marked "F2", "MF", and "Made in USA" on top
5.2 :1

 

Thanks Retson! I didn’t see any F2s or MFs but there is another tag.

 

Is there any marks underneath the waterpump area?

 

No. But once I started scrubbing a bit the paint wiped right off. Easier to see the the one tag now. 4-9-40

 

There is also this stamp near the passenger firewall.

 

Welcome to Banger Meet , all sounds great to me.
Sure it is , it is exactly the idea behind the Banger Meet. Everybody can learn from everybody else, in fact that was the aim of the whole WWW. There are diverse aims and opportunities here and every one of them is relevant.