Technical ***June 2021 Banger Meet Thread - How's Your 4 Cylinder***

Link to previous month: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-2021-banger-meet-thread-great-shop-weather.1228734/

Old Dawg informs us there is an effort to resurrect a F.A.S.T. newsletter but it would require 400 subscribers (minimum number to attract vendors). Subscription price is unknown at this point (2021/6/1) but if you are interested send an email to [email protected].

Coming Events: (PM Jiminy with additions/corrections)
Santa Margarita Time Trials are scheduled for 26 June 2021!
International Speedsters Trials & Reunion June 23rd-26th 2021 Lincoln, NE
RPM "You Asked For It" Drags June 27 Barona Dragstrip in San Diego.
Monterey Car Week August 7th - 14th, 2021
Bonneville Speedweek August 7th - 13th, 2021
Hot Rod Hill Climb Sept 17th - 18th, 2021
49th Running of the Antique Nationals October 17th 2021-Irwindale Speedway
Stay safe.

For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Jim Brierley's book 4-bangers! And me! is a must read book for all banger enthusiasts. US customers send $34.00 all color except for the oldest pictures (includes S/H in the U.S.A.), PayPal welcome, to:
Jim Brierley, 39480 Colleen Way, Temecula, CA 92592.
email: [email protected]
phone: 951-695-7313.

Here is a list of most of the prior monthly banger meet links:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498

Banger basics. another info link list:
http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

The link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/may-bang-er-thread.470853/page-4#post-5212157
and this link shows the missing image from the above post
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-work-on-bangers.1010716/page-3#post-11427055

The 4 Banger hot rod picture thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-4-banger-hot-rod-picture-thread.997051/

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484

Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://web.archive.org/web/20120415...e.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:
http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:
http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:
http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php

Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"
http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05

Chevy Banger Stuff
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

T-5 5 speed in a Torque Tube:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256226

New Banger Block in the Works
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-banger-block-in-the-works.616056/

Model A & B Style Cast Iron Cylinder Head Compression Ratios.
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/headcompressionratio.htm

 

I participate in an online smart phone photo challenge. Last week was B&W, so I took a photo of my '29 Supercab truck in front of the Grange building built in 1911. This is the car I'm taking to the Speedster Reunion at Speedway later this month.

 

nice truck

 

Checking in

 

yep, here
J

 

Shecking in

 

Hey guy's after the Iola swapmeet come to The Showdown at Sanford Field in Hillsboro WI
I will be there dragracing my Banger in the FLATHEAD drags.

 

It's currenty a beautiful sunny early winter's day here where I live ... in Australia. Just having a cuppa before I crank up the coupe to go get a few suppplies. Life is good!

 

Back again,
For those who answered / advised or were interested last month, I spoke to my engine machinist and was advised 2 ways to look at it.
Pressure test (low pressure) the block to first see if it’s just a heat crack or into the water jacket, if just a heat crack, fit a cast seat( some special cast seat material) and as it would only be run very infrequently, monitor it.
If into the water jacket, stitch , sleeve and a new seat and it should be okay.
This was all before I cleaned it up and cracked tested it last night with dye penetrant just to see the extent of the crack.
Already has a seat installed so could be a old repair as this engine has some history with it.
No crack to the seat (shouldn’t be really)so chicken and egg scenario!
Yet to pressure check and see that outcome.
The full stitch ,sleeve and seat scenario is on the cards but I live in hope.
My first block crack experience so learning on the run.

 

Checking in!
Went and picked up the donor engine for the Model T.
Found a surprise, .330 lift cam!

 

Sweet!

 

Checking in, went to a swap meet last weekend here in Switzerland, first one in two years, so good to be returning to normal hotrod life

 

Back in the Banger crew finally....

 

Barrelnose..B block with seat, sleeve and pins to repair.

Can anyone tell me why this babbit is so dark?

 

Thanks Railcarmover, could well be in my future. Definitely worth the save.

 

I look at it this way...cracking relieves tension, Odds are its done cracking,fix this and the problems are over. Course, what the hell do I know..we are dealing with the gods of ford grey iron castings..

 

My $0.02
This looks like it was repaired once already, I am not sure about the corner of the bore, the ground off edge.
To me, it looks like it may have been welded once. What is the bore size?
The crack is not that bad, if you are going to drive it only occasionally, do the pressure test, 15psi max.
If is leaking just a little, I would just add some sodium silicate and run it. You can do more damage to the port wall with pins and pushing in another seat. The reason is simple, there is marginally enough material there to support having another seat put in and remember, seats add stress to the casting.
To be honest, blocks are around, having larger valves installed is very inexpensive, babbitt to bearings is again economical. It just depends on your intended purpose with the vehicle.
John

 

Hmm.
Darker babbitt usually indicates a higher level of lead in mix.
I would offer it is pretty soft.

John

 

I'm in! (barely)

 

Ive dealt with soft babbit before,so soft you can score it with a razor...this is very hard ( in my limited,primitive test),the blade slides on it..got me stumped,the cat who had it before me was a machinist at Aerojet..wondr if he worked something up.

 

Appreciate your input John, and the pressure test and adding iron tight is on the cards if only a minor leak.
I also am worried about further dramas doing the major repair route.
As for blocks being around, larger valves being very inexpensive and Babbitt to bearings being economical, not down here mate, not in our world. My engine machinist is sending 2 blocks across country(a long way) to have the Babbitt redone.

 

Anyone know if I need to put JB weld and sand it smooth on where the electrolysis happened on the head? Or is that unnecessary.

And one for fun, anyone know if this is an original or a repop from the pics? Heard the repops are more functionally sound.

 

my week - decided to up grade my brake lines . what an experience ! i dont remember the last time my system was totally empty . after a couple of days bleeding (no pressure bleeder) , finally got some brake .
if your doing this (beg , borrow or steal a pressure bleeder) ............. all good .. steve

 

Checking in, hope this is the month to get my A back on the road

 

Looks in good condition...near new.
If you havent checked for FLAT, a skim of mating surface should make it good to go. I wouldn’t be concerned with what I see. However, a sacrificial anode might help preserve aluminum when mated to cast iron !
Dont know if repop.... and/ or how many repop versions were ever made.

 

YEAH! What I'd do is solder a piece of copper wire to copper washer which is a bit smaller than the radiator neck to a Zinc bolt. Drop it in the radiator and replace the cap! (the washer to keep the anode from rattling around in the radiator tank!)

 

Yep, understood, different shops have different capabilities.
When the club Elders do not have a local babbitt shop to go to, you have to explore or go with inserts.
Been doing them here for last 10 years or so, but it is getting harder to find the proper inserts.
J

 

Im here

 

Checking in.

 

My "A" broke the starter gear and has an odd starter drive (bendix) setup. Trying to determine what I need to fix the problem. Tried asking on the main forum (Technical - Banger Help - Model A Starter Drive | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com) without any replies. Maybe someone here can help?
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Just broke the starter gear on my Model A engine. I want to fix/replace the drive, but this setup looks different from what I expected. It looks like the drive is reversed on the shaft. Anyone know what's going on here?

I didn't put this together originally, so I don't know what parts were used. The engine does have an aluminum flywheel.

Any help figuring out what starter drive to order would be appreciated.