Has anyone ever fabricated a brace for the mini starter on a 454, if so give me an idea please of what works. I know how the general consistence says no brace needed but mine broke a bolt for whatever reason and I want to avoid that from happening again.
Yes the shop reused the factory bolts by adding flatwashers under the head. It is not uncommon to have a hunk break out of the block when bolt failure happens for whatever reason, don't want to take another chance. Looking for a little insurance that's all. New bolts ordered.
might help to know what mini starter you have.... The factory mini starter (this is listed for many late 90s models) has a stud for the brace....I doubt that the aftermarket ones do. If you use this type, then you could get the OEM brace, eh? This starter also uses special bolts, with an SAE shank where the threads are, and metric where it fits into the starter.
I just put one on that had a pair of studs with loose nuts on them so I made an adapter to tie them to my stock bracket. To me, that starter pinion is still trying to climb the ring gear, no matter how light the starter is. Gary
There are no numbers or name on my mini but it looks identical to the Ultima ?? version. It does have a 3/16 stud for attaching a brace. The bolts used were the correct size although the length was adjusted with 4 flat washers also the knurled areas were worn smooth. I can not find any brace on line to fir any nimi thats why I was hoping someone had a design I could fab one by. My other choice is to install the Delco full size which is not undesirable. By the way while the mechanic was moving the timing trying to solve the backfire issue I'm having and when I tried to start the engine and it kicked back was when it sheered the starter bolt off, I heard when it happened. Thanks so much for the input
The factory brace is just a strange shaped stamped angle, with a hole at each end, and a bend in the middle. You could get some 1 x 1 x 1/8 steel angle, do some drilling and cutting, to make two short pieces, one bolts to the block, the other to the starter. Then weld the two pieces together. That's how I would try to fab one. making a few test templates from tagboard is also a good idea...to get a design figured out.
Here is something I have always used to make sure my starter wires don't flop around or hit my headers or exhaust manifolds. I also install a three wire trailer-type plug which makes it simple to replace the starter. No more fooling around with little washers and nuts in a cramped place. The wire clips are found under '64 - '65 Chevelle parts...
You commented that the starter bolts are the correct size BUT starter bolts need to have the factory knurling on them to center the starter and the knurling actually enters the block about 1/4” .
A GM factory mini has been on my cpe for at least 80K of the 100K on it. I've never had a problem. As said use the correct bolts and it should be fine
ARP has the starter bolts in various lengths with the correct OD where it fits inside the starter housing.. Spacing it out with washers most likely hsd more to do with the bolt breaking than the kick back did. did
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