HEEEYYYYY, where did the op go??!!! We need pictures!!.... and they are " anti ROLL bars" ...not " anti sway bars"!!.... that should stir the pot a little!!
4 bar font , coilover rear, [panhard front & rear (all new) . on straight away hiway car will sometimes rock like hell . wondering if its grooves in roadbed from tractor trailers , since it is not all of the time !! THING IS MY 32 DOESN'T DO THIS ! SO WHAT THE H---- is goin on ? TREAD WIDTH DIFFERENCE ? I'll GO MEASURE !
Still happening over 65mph on straightaway . car handles fine otherewise ! does running big & littles have anything 2 do w. it ??
I'll take a stab at it, how long is the rear panhard? How about the front? Are the rear bars on big heim joints or bushings? How much angle on the rear coil overs? A short rear panhard makes for a pivot rather than a stabilizer. The more vertical the coils are the less lateral support (anti-roll) they can provide. Big bushing style bar mounts at the front are more stable than heims which can allow side to side forces. If I had to guess I'd say your rear panhard is probably to the inside of the rail, and maybe a slight angle but just off the rear axle carrier bearing face. 9" Ford? Or an 8", same thing. Maybe a 22-28" panhard at best?
Do you have a spring broken in the pack by chance? Can you physically replicate the roll by pushing on the car? O don't think big and littles will contribute to the roll per say, but it's not an optimal setup for handling, my car will bulldoze in a curve with the big and little tires before it gets the chance to body roll lol
Could be a steering issue. Start with a check on toe in and worn components. Side winds, side steer with some minor bump steer for good measure and tired shocks can give rise to a rocky, wandering ride, moreso if the toe is wrong. Don't ask me how I know this! Chris
Tramlining due to bad wheel offset/scrub radius. I'll bet my left nut on it........ Pics of front end please.
Hello, Radial tires new and old have their own ways to do things. Some high end radials in various cars tend to grab those road grooves and make the car, new or old, sway while driving. It is a little disheartening, but as the tires wear, then the tread does not grab as much. So, lets put the blame on tire tread patterns. But, radial tires do that more so than when we ran bias ply tires. Of course, you did get all of your tires trued and shaved to make sure they are round. The most overlooked thing is round tires. We all think tires are perfectly round, most are... Tire truing made plenty of shavings on the ground while the tire was given the butch cut on the machines. But, with modern techniques the true round is less of a problem in good quality name brand tires. (not the cheapest unknown brand tire found at a discount shop...) Some manufacturers of tires put out those tires and we consumers get the mass produced tires in all shapes and roundness. It never hurts to check the suspension for worn parts, but people just assume tires, even those that just got balanced and mounted will not cause problems. Jnaki If radial tires with the latest technology in ride and handling is not your bag of tea, then the same holds true for those companies that make bias ply tires for old cars. Get them true rounded on a tire shaving machine and expert balancing on a modern spinning set up. Or, for the old style, mount them on the car and use a "on the car" wheel balancer. Real old school... Again, a lot of handling with any tires, even on the high end sporty cars and station wagons comes down to alignment, balancing and of course, tires being completely round to start with prior to all of the mounting/balancing. A good suspension also helps but most do not need sway bars as we normally don't zip around corners like the sporty car racers. So a good solid suspension parts, shocks and springs will usually take care of business. And true round tires balanced well and aligned correctly. YRMV
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