Projects '63 Falcon, and '39 Chev gassers

With summer dwindling away, and ugly fall weather predicted, I had the opportunity to meet up with some friends last weekend. Perfect time to test the '39 Chevy for a road trip! A 1200 mile round trip, road trip!
So I headed off to the Pick N Pull to buy a space saver spare. Tossed it in the trunk, along with my small floor jack, tools, camping gear, cooler, and some grub! And hit the road last Thursday morning early.
I knew the small 12 gal. fuel cell was going to limit driving distance between fuel stops, so kept an eye on the gauge. The gauge also reads empty at about half a tank, so at about 125 miles I figure I had to think about gas within the next 50-75 miles. That worked out fine as at my age I need a pit stop as often as the coupe does!
I left home somewhat apprehensive, as I always am on a fresh build. But maybe a bit more so with the recent engine work, and the fact there's no cell service in a few places along the way too! But after a couple hundred miles I began to relax. And after more miles I began to really enjoy the trip! I was almost disappointed when I arrived 8 1/2 hrs. later, as I was having so much fun.
After a weekend of fun with my old friends I started back home, and trip back was just the same, except I took a slightly different route, just to see new things I missed on the trip up. More mountains and curvy roads, which was even more fun. Didn't see a single hotrod up or back, and when I stopped to look at Grande Coulee Dam on the way north mine was the only car in the whole parking lot!
Put the '39 back in the shop after cleaning dead bugs off everywhere, and will begin the final bodywork soon. In hopes of getting paint on it this winter, and a few small changes before next driving season begins.

 

Good for you Val. Car looks great and sounds like you did everything you were supposed to do during the build. Look forward to seeing it in paint next spring. Stay safe pal.

 

Thanks! It was a kick to just be cruising down these desert highways at 65-70 mph and enjoying the ride. Just something about looking out the windows of an old coupe with the exhaust rumbling along that's so much more fun than any modern ride.

 

Been awhile since I had much to update. Shop was too cold all winter, so didn't sped much time there, except on the rare occasional high 40's days. I've been working on refining my bodywork in preparation to paint the coupe. After numerous color considerations, and more changes than a fickle old woman, I finally decided on a color, and ordered up my paint kit. I went with TCP Global's Restoration Shop acrylic urethane in a Ford Wimbledon White color. I think the off white color will be a good base for what I plan to do for old school lettering later.
The whole car is blocked out again, and during that process I found another issue with the passenger door lower hinge area. So had to pull that door to repair it. Easy enough since I'd had them off before, and ran a tap through all threaded holes before putting it back on.
I cut out the area around the lower hinge where I saw a hairline crack, and then used the cracked piece of around 2"x5" as a template to trace on donor metal. Cut it out, drilled the hinge holes, and welded it back into the door. An easy 2 hr. repair, and the door feels much better now, and is very solid.
Yesterday I spent 5 hrs. unbolting all the light housings, and getting windows masked off. Also the whole engine bay, since the sides are open, and I'll be painting my glass hood off the car. I'm having to cut some wiring to turn signals, but headlamps are plug in, so I want to wire in connectors to make them a plug in unit when I reassemble the car after paint.
I'll do one more complete shoot of high build primer, and block it out before shooting paint. Looks like we're having a 68 degree day Wed., so I'll prime then, and then block sand. After that I'll have to wait for another 70 degree day to begin shooting paint. But I may shoot the jams and other areas if it gets close, and then I can close it up and do the remaining exterior when the weather is perfect.
This will be my first attempt at a complete paint job. I've done doors, hoods, or fenders; but never a total paint job.

 

Yesterday I shot the jams on the coupe. Then got out this morning and did one final quick scuff of the primer, and began my first paint job. I bought the Restoration Shop single stage paint from TCP Global, and got 4 coats on the car before I ran too low for a 5th coat. Did the first coat very light, and then the other 3 coats at normal coats.
The paint looked a little "orange peeled" at first hitting the car, but then it laid right down, and came out great after each coat. Not a single run, which shocked the heck out of me! It's a Ford Wimbledon White, so hope the Chevy doesn't reject it.
Took these pics after the 2nd coat, but then the temps got warmer here and didn't want to stop to take more pictures. Even after the 2nd coat it was looking pretty good.







I'll let it set and cure well, and then unmask it, and begin assembling the lights, and weatherstripping.

 

Looks good, doing it by yourself on a car that big is a bitch to keep it just the right amount of "WET" all over.

 

Not having any experience with shooting a whole car, and only having painted a hood, or fender previously, I wasn't sure what to expect? I found the first light coat I sprayed seemed to not lay down smooth as I sprayed it. But as I continued to move along, I looked back at the earlier areas and saw it was laying down and had a great glossy smooth appearance! So I got more comfortable as I moved along. Each subsequent coat did the same thing as I sprayed them, but I forced myself to fight the urge to lay it on heavier to get it smoother as I sprayed. Instead I just waited for it to smooth out itself, and it did so very nicely.

 

Updated pictures after getting things back together. Lots of cleanup to do, and of course still need to cut and buff the new paint. Then maybe some lettering to give it the 60's gasser look.

 

Vall, your coupe looks great! Nice work!

 

Thank you!

 

Looks great in white @1971BB427 !

You could use this car for inspiration on the graphics https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1939-chevy-coupe-drag-car-looking-for-info.1198388/

 

Thanks!
That's a very cool '39, but really doesn't fit into what I prefer as far as Gas Class 60's cars were. Not a fan of the huge numbers a limited number had, and the rest the graphics look great on that fenderless, but don't think I'd use them on my build.
I have Larry Davis' Gasser Wars book, which i referenced loosely when I designed the logos for my Austin gasser. I've been going through it for inspiration, and I have a name already. One I know hasn't ever been used, as it's based on local nicknames for my area.
Have a bunch of old drag decals, but I'm questioning using much. Most 60's drag cars had very few decals for sponsors. Most had the credits painted on their cars.

 

Lol I was just yanking your chain as far as styling after that car goes. I am confident that you will only improve upon the car. Keep it up!

 

I do really like that car, and have looked at pictures of it often. Appears to be a straight six from the 3 pipes out each side. And has a dry lakes appearance to the build. If I had room for another, I'd love to build one similarly.

 

You and me both.

 

After a bunch of calls to local pinstripers and guys doing lettering, I've figured out they're all flakes. Most don't return calls or messages at all. Those that do say they'll get back after doing a mockup, and then never hear from them again. Numerous messages left via phone and email are left unanswered.
So I went to my local Signs Now shop where I've had stencils for lettering done previously and he was once again excited to do the work, and within 24 hrs. sent me a mockup for my approval. Needs a couple small changes, like D/G not A/G, and Est. 1950, not 1956.
He took pictures of the '39 yesterday, and said he'd have the two piece stencils ready for me to pick up tomorrow! These will get one pass painted with the first color, and then the 2nd stencil stuck over, and a pass with the border color done. Whopping $138 for all the stencils to paint the lettering with.

 

Got the final for approval, and confirmed the corrected images.

 

That's going to look great Vall!

 

Thanks Mike! For those of us wanting to do this ourselves, the stencils are great, and look like a hand painted lettering job. This was what i used on my Falcon:

 

Today was the day to do the lettering. Supposed to be high 80's, so got out before 9:00 and started. Took a long time to get it all done, and the stencils helped, but also caused me some frustration. I measured up the first set, and laid them out so they matched side to side. Stuck them down, and began painting them in. I decided I'd switch the color scheme, and went with red background, and black borders.





Paint dried quickly with temps today, so went right to covering the first paint with the border stencil. And that's when I realized it's not easy to position the big door stencil and get all the letters to align properly! I ended up cutting the top half off from the bottom half. Then I also cut the excess away within 1/4" of the letters, so I could see the letters underneath from the edge and align the stencil patterns. That worked out, except one "S" on the top got mangled pulling it off the backer, and I lost the center piece that provides the inside edge for the small border. So had to freehand that "S" and my old hands are shaky! I took forever on that one S, but got it without messing it up.





I put my dad's name on the driver's door just because. And also because his first new car was a '39 Chev, so a nod to him. Happens to be my middle name too.


Took 5 1/2 hours with the sun beating down on me, and by the time I finished it was mid 80's and way too hot in the direct sun. I have to go over it now and do tiny touch ups on the black and red where the stencils pulled some paint. But very minor, and even I can freehand those in.

 

Drove to our local vintage Flying A station today to get some pictures. Owner happened to stop in while I was there, and asked me to please send him copies for the scrapbook he keeps. This place is used by all the local hotrodders to take car pictures.

 

Had one of my Towel City pie crust slicks fail this weekend. Fortunately not a massive failure, as it was a section of "tread" on the inside part about 1/4" thick, and 2"x4" size. I was cruising down the freeway when it began to sound like the noise you get from road joints, except only my right rear making the sound.
I was almost to my exit, so slowed down to 55 mph and the noise stopped. When I got home I jacked it up, and found the bad spot. I contacted Towel City, and was told they warranty their tires for one year. I told him that was disappointing as I'd bought them nearly two years ago, but they didn't get started to be used until about 6 months ago. He said he'd look into what they could do and get back to me.
Today I called and was told they'd sell me a new pie crust slick, built on a brand new casing for $150 shipped to me. So not what I wanted, but better than nothing I guess. Since shipping is over $60 now, I guess it's better than them not covering it at all.
Supposed to be shipped out in about a week, so wont miss a bunch of driving while waiting.

 

Mmmm! Garage smells like fresh pie crust! Pie crust slicks that is!





Got the notice they'd be delivered today, but of course I sat around waiting all day, and UPS didn't deliver until 7:00 p.m. tonight! Have an appointment to have them mounted and balanced first thing tomorrow!

 

Group photo with my two gassers together. The '39 Chev coupe, and my '37 Austin I built 11 years ago. 26" wheelbase difference between these two old hotrods.

 

nice car..lettering is awesome

 

Thank you! Appreciate the comments.

 

My 16 yr. old granddaughter gave me a pencil drawing she did of my '39 Chev for Christmas. Unbeknownst to me her dad took a picture of the '39 so she could draw it and surprise me for Christmas. And I was very pleasantly surprised! She's a very talented artist, and this was her first attempt at drawing any cars.

 

Winter upgrade to the 350 roller motor in my '39 Chev. Got a pair of Dart heads at the last swap meet, so tore the 487x heads off, and swapped the Dart SHP 180's on today. Besides better flow the Darts have 64cc chambers, where the 487x have 74cc chambers. Should be a big shot in the arm for performance, and torque increase with these new heads!

 

Finally got the '39 out last week to see how the engine with new Dart heads felt. Pretty amazing increase in power. At least it feels much higher HP than before. It's a heavy car, but with the old cast iron heads you mashed the throttle to break the pie crust slicks loose. Now I have to be somewhat careful with my right foot to not break the tires loose! So I'm pretty pleased with the upgrade to these heads.
I started my next project, which was to add in the line lock to my front brakes in case I take the '39 to the nostalgia drags this summer. Got it plumbed into the front brakes, and got under the dash to make sure all was OK with the pushrod from the master cylinder. That's when I noticed something looked odd about my brake pedal arm. The car has always stopped well with manual brakes, but took a fair amount of pressure. So I measured up the brake pedal arm, and pivot point, and came up with 4:1 ratio! No wonder it takes some foot pressure to stop it without a power booster!
So I pulled the hanging pedal assembly off the inner firewall, and proceeded to slice and dice it. Cut the pedal off first, and then made a template of cardboard to figure out how much to add to the arm. Cut out a 4" extension piece, and welded it to the existing arm to give me a 6.5:1 ratio now. I tossed the pedal that was on it as it was rectangular, and ordered a 40's Ford truck round pedal. So once it arrives I'll weld a 1/2-20 nut to the extended arm to thread the Ford brake pedal on. Should make the '39 a lot nicer to stop, and not end up with one leg larger than the other from pushing so hard!

 

Major engine troubles recently, which had to do with incorrect parts being sent to me when I swapped out the cylinder heads for the new Dart heads. The Dart heads use all sorts of great features, including guide plates for the pushrods. I ordered new hardened pushrods when I got the Dart heads, and dropped them in during the swap. But a little over 100 miles later I began to hear lifters rattling, so I pulled the valve covers to adjust them. They shouldn't have loosened with the poly locks, and the poly locks were all still tight. But one rocker was completely off the valve stem when I removed the valve covers!
I pulled all the pushrods, and none were bent, so figured I some of my roller lifters had issues. Pulled the intake, and lifters, and took all the lifters to my work bench to test spring compression with my arbor press. The 4th lifter I compressed didn't return back, so I pulled the clip and dumped out the piston. The spring was stuck compressed, and not amount of pulling would free it. I figured it's broken, and went on to test the others. I found 3 other lifters that felt odd when compressing them, and were hanging up a little when I released spring pressure.
So I ordered a full set of new Howards roller lifters, and decided to clean things up while waiting their arrival. During cleanup I looked at the new pushrods and was horrified to see wear on every one of them where they rubbed on the guide plates! Obviously they were not hardened pushrods, or they wouldn't wear so quickly! A little closer inspection of the lifter valley showed the oil was contaminated with what looked like graphite coloring. I drained the engine oil, and removed the oil filter, and saw a grayish color to the oil also. Put my finger in the oil and tried a bright light to see if there were any particles, but if they are too tiny to actually see any sparkles.
So I ordered a new set of hardened pushrods, and proceeded to further clean the engine while waiting for parts. I ran some diesel fuel through the engine, and used my priming tool to flush it through the oil passages. Drained it out, and did it again. Didn't see much either time, so I put in some inexpensive oil and primed it through the engine also, then drained it out. Still looked good, so left it at that point, and put fresh oil, and a new filter on it.
Reassembled the engine with the new roller lifters, and pushrods, and adjusted lash. Started it up, and all seemed fine, so began making short trips around town, and eventually took a 200 mile trip to get some miles on the repair. Drained the oil, and dissected the filter this week, and all looks good again. No signs of any gray color, or metallic contamination either. Oil pressure is still great at 45 psi idle, and 60-65 psi cruising. So I dodged a bullet not ruining a fresh engine build by some idiot sending me the wrong pushrods.
Sure is depressing to get your car finished, and everything like you want it, and then have have incorrect parts cause a failure like this. Glad it's over and I can hopefully relax and enjoy putting miles on the '39 again!