Just wondered if anyone has had this problem of internal leak in Edelbrock carbs....I have had a couple of them that leaked down on the accelerator pump side of the carb...Shut off the car and let it set and the fuel bowl on that side of the carb would leak down till it was empty...Adjust the floats...New needle and seat and checked to see if all things were tight...The fuel would drain into the manifold...Could never find the issue...Changed carb issue went away...This happened with two different carbs on different cars...Guess it is just my luck to get the only bad castings made...LOL...
It's been my experience that Edelbrock carburetors are temperamental to sitting around. And dried fuel from sitting through the winter months clogs the smallest of ports. Almost like you need to pull the top off and clean them every spring. 3 air bleed circuits in the venturi boosters always seem to be clogged. And pressure has to go somewhere, so you see fuel dripping from the booster down to the butterflies. Keep in mind, I'm a painter, but I've also fixed all of my Edelbrock's and they work great for me.
Since it, according to your description, leaks on only one side i would guess you may have a defective casting. It could be porous or have a pinhole flaw. Do you know where the gas goes as it leaks? If it was leaking on both sides I would suspect percolation. Most carbs have an anti percolation vent of some kind that vents pressure that builds from the float bowl to the atmosphere. The crap gas they sell us these days boils at a pretty low temperature. Boiling will normally occur after a hot engine is turned off. Another possibility is missing or defective check valves in the accelerator pump circuit, letting bowl pressure force the gas out the squirters. that would account for the leak being on the accelerator pump side. Thus sayeth the old coot..............
Running a spacer to insulate it from the intake? Aluminum intakes are heat sinks that make percolation even worse. Every Edelbrock I have seen (including mine) requires a pedal to the floor start-up if left to sit for short durations during heat sink. Bowls will also dry up over time, requiring a few pumps for cold starts. It's a very old design made for different fuel but no biggie, just temperamental. Joe
Just the nature of the beast. On cold startups, spin the motor until you have oil pressure, blip the pedal a couple of times, and it should start right up. At least mine does.
If you run more than 4.5 psi , the psi will bleed off the fuel, had the same problem on a blown 327 2x4's, put a regulator an gauge on, kept turning it till it stopped, 4.5 was the magic # for my application.. And it was a stock mechanical pump fyi
Good tips written above. In addition, next to the plates that hold the metering rods, there are squarish shaped holes which go directly to the float bowls. Pour a good dose of Marvel M O or some light oil in these holes to keep the bowls from drying up during long storage.
The Jalopy Journal
