Projects Jumping in the deep end

I think I'm just going to buy a set of rebuilt or at least working when removed brakes. I am not the first one to monkey with these and something is just not right with them, beyond the fact that the entire e-brake assembly is missing. I don't have the time or the patience to get into the nitty gritty of a complete overhaul, these are roached.

I've decided the coupe is going to stay banger powered. I have almost enough extra shit already to make a rolling AV8 chassis entirely separate of the coupe so that's what I'll do, and I'll find another body down the line to put on it. With that in mind, I will insist on sticking to mechanical brakes for the coupe.

 

Front brakes acquired from a fellow HAMBer.

After a rough day yesterday I went and sat in the car to clear my head. It didn’t help - I started looking real close at the wood and realized it all has go. In a lot of places I’ve just got rotten chunks remaining. The header is especially rough, I’m surprised the windshield even hangs from it but I certainly wouldn’t trust it to stay there rolling down the road.

Is this worth trying to do on my scrollsaw or will I find myself buying a bunch more woodworking tools?

 

Why not replace it with metal? Have you seen lumber prices lately? I have never done a Model A, but there seems to be quite a few out there that the wood has been replaced with steel.

 

Replacing body wood with steel requires you to be a much better bodyman than carpenter. If you want to cut your own wood framework, and it isn't perfect, it can be shimmed and then it's hidden by the steel skin. If you replace the inner framework with steel you weld the skin to it and you need to be exact for everything to align. Not as easy as it sounds.

 

You’ve seen my garage, 80% of my net worth is in scrap wood right now!

I thought about doing it in steel, but I still don’t have an effective way to cut metal, and for the reasons alchemy stated, it really looks like a bigger pain in the ass than wood, all things considered. The shapes would be pretty tricky to do with box tube and a sawzall or even a chopsaw or torch.

 

With any luck, they'll be here tomorrow! I might also be getting rears soon as part of another deal.

I saw a sweet banger-powered Tudor out on the town today, that marks the second Model A I've seen around here. I hung around the car for a while hoping to meet the owner but it just didn't work out. Getting to see an assembled car up close is always helpful in any case. I need to make some cards.

 

Here's what I unwrapped today!

While I was taking inventory I decided to just put the damn things together.



These are some damn stiff springs, but I got it. I'll get them on the car maybe tomorrow.

 

Are those brand new shoes??? the reason I ask is they may need arching to fit the drums or was that work already done??

 

Not quite brand new but they almost look it. They were removed from a running/driving car and match these drums. I believe they have already been arced.

 

Has anyone used a ‘40 x member in a Model A frame instead of a 32 K member? I have the opportunity to get a rotten ‘40 frame with a solid X member for a great price. I’ve seen people use earlier ones, looks cool.

 

The 40 frame is a lot wider than the A frame so you are going to have to do a lot cutting and welding to make it fit. I used an F-1 trans mount in mine. Still needed a lot of cutting and patching but not so much as the 40 x member. Do a search there are a ton of pics of the F1 application. You can even use the pedals.

 

As @flatford39 mentioned, an F1 crossmember is a great fit that gives you pedals and mount for a master cylinder, but to your question, yes, guys have used 40 x members and slice and diced them to fit. There's a few threads on here at least. If you can get it cheap and aren't afraid of a little more work, go for it! Easier than sourcing something you don't have a lead on.
You'll have to narrow it width wise, and I've seen guys slice and taper the arms to fit into the A frame (40 frames are vertically thicker).

 

Trevor this is A-V8 I did with the F series mount, I think it was an F-3 and I did a bit of work on it. The end result worked out fine.

Pat

 

The F1 mount is what I was planning to go with, but for the price I was tempted to go after this '40. I could have had the whole X member for $120. But I didn't realize how much taller the '40 frame is compared to the A. That's more slice n dice than I'm equipped for to make it fit right.

 

slice and dice... make it look nice !
i have seen pix here of guys doing just what you mentioned, don't remember the title...
go t go !

 

$120.00 is not exactly inexpensive especially if you are going to cut most of it away.

Pat

 

Hell of a lot cheaper than a 32! I haven't seen an F1 crossmember come up so not sure what those go for. But it is a lot more structural work than I feel comfortable doing with a harbor freight grinder and my tombstone welder.



A beer or two later, I got the crusty old brakes off and installed the new ones. These work perfectly. I have rears on the way.

The old brakes were pretty worn out with flat spots on the rollers and stuff, plus the springs were rusty crusty. They would pop out and then stick and you'd have to get the mallet to make them retract. The wheel bearing was junk too. The drums are SHOT, big chunks of cast iron calving away inside. Those were no good.

 

Oh d'oh I forgot the felt washers that go on the operating pin.

The old wheel bearings were shot so I will replace them. Is there a special procedure for the wheel bearings/races or should I just grease 'em and pop 'em on? I see there is an installation tool but removing them was very straightforward and I don't see why the tool is necessary.

 

I put a 39 X member in my 29 Coupe. Tons of slicing and welding to get it to fit. I don't think I would do it again.

 

Just clarifying your thought process...
You say you are going to keep the coupe banger powered and mechanical brakes in the post at the top of this page.
Why are you asking about swapping crossmembers?
Is your current frame hacked? Going back to post #677, it shows decent mounts.

 

I'm asking for the V8 chassis that's coming later. I already have another frame and enough spare parts to build a V8 chassis with a ‘40 rear end and hydraulic brakes. I’ll either body swap the coupe if the banger ends up being super boring or I’ll get another body and just have two hot rods. I’m not ready to tackle that yet (until the coupe is drivable and weather proof I don't have anywhere to put another project) but I could have had that crossmember for $100 and held on to it for later.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

While I'm all for gathering stuff cheap for future builds (you should SEE my back yard!), IMHO that 100 bucks needs to get the current project around the block, not fill the shed.
The header wood is about that much from here.
http://www.littledearborn.com/modela/wood/model_a_ford__top_wood.htm
But I'm sure there will be other things to buy for that first drive that will pop up before getting the wood parts.
Focus, grasshopper!

 

You're right! It's just hard to watch cool traditional stuff float by that I might want later. I ended up using that money to order the last batch of critical stuff.

Other than a seat, I think every piece I need for that first drive is either in my possession or soon to be delivered, and the banger is purring like a kitten. I think she'll be good to go once I get the brakes and wheel bearings installed - after that, it'll just be cosmetics and finishing, not counting the speed parts that will trickle in. Getting the body patched up right is going to be a project for sure, but patch panels are cheap and I figure I can do that in bite sized chunks after the car is drivable.

 

Well, there is the common OT minivan back seats often used (cheap), but don't forget local thrift stores that might have a cheap couch/loveseat that could be hacked to fit. I've seen guys use fiberglass seats and even vintage theater seats. The common low back bucket is old Jeep, and ask racing guys if they have something in the junk pile, too.
Keep the measurements and a tape with you and your eyes open.

 

Tonight the front brakes will be done and the car should be running & leak free. Tomorrow the rear brakes will be delivered and it is my goal to have her sitting on all four tomorrow night with the ability to stop and go. Saturday night after work I will finish up the body mounts and on Sunday, if I have to ratchet down a bucket to sit on, I will drive this car.

 

Front brakes are mounted and I went ahead and replaced the wheel bearings. Not much left to do now, although suddenly the car doesn't want to run. Ran out of time to troubleshoot, I think the battery is shot but may just be bad gas.

 

I acquired most of an x member from a sub framed ‘46 and since I did not have it all I had to reverse it, front attached to the back. Location determined by bolting up the trans mount, slice & weld until it fit. I had to fab front pieces as well as mount for 48 F1 pedals. I drilled, tightened up bolts and welded nuts to fasten rather than try rivet, boxed frame. Have 2 more A frames & looking for more junk later frames so I can do it again.