Technical Grinding noise when I pull the car out of the garage.

If the bearing is truly that bad, you don't have to remove the axle entirely from the housing ... just pull the axle out enough to see it/spin it by hand. If the bearing is then determined to be the cause of your noise, greasing it won't be sufficient, it needs to be replaced.

Edit: I should be clearer, the axle can be pulled out just enough to ASSESS the bearing ... IF it is clearly the problem though, that bearing must be replaced which means the axle must be completely removed from the housing.

 

Place brake drum on backwards and install lug nuts on just a few threads in each creates a cheap slide hammer as well. Push drum forward then pull hard.

 

Put the car back on its wheels with the drums in place then park the car as far over to one side of the garage as you can. Once the axle is free of the center section (gears), the axle can be swung somewhat, within the axle housing meaning it doesn't need to come straight out ... you may have enough room to wiggle the axle out (you may not).

Make sure you put the correct side of the car up close to the wall and leave some room for the body to tilt as you jack it up to get the wheel off.

 

If you are talking about greasing the bearing just so you can turn the car around, that's fine but greasing it isn't going to save it, it must be changed if it is indeed the cause of your noise.

 

If the axle doesn't slide out you can use a slide hammer as shown in the video above OR secure a length of chain to the lug nuts and use it as a "whip" to snap the axle free

 

Even with this bad grinding noise. I don't think it can hurt it anymore than what bit is now. I just want to back the car out of the garage. Turn it around, and put back into the garage. Then I can pull that one axle. Would I need to jack up both sides to pull one axle??

 

Grab the flange and try to pick it up and wiggle it. If the bearing is really shot, the axle will move up and down a lot. Had one go bad in my 8", it got hot when the bearing started coming apart and stuck the race in the housing. I rented a slide hammer from the parts store to get it out. Put the drums and tires back on and turn it around, the damage is already done so get it where you can pull that sides axle.

I've heard Ford made a light duty F100 in the early 80's that had an 8" rear and had the small 5x4.5" bolt pattern, but I've never ran across one.

 

I don't see a reason to jack up both sides. I'd leave one side on the ground.
BamaMav brought up a good point, if the bearing is that bad it may fall apart ... possibly some of it in the housing. That might make the job harder than it should be.

 

To remove one axle you need to jack it up no more than you would to remove the wheel. The other side can stay on the ground.

Chris

 

Time for my lunch ... best of luck to you, I'll check back later.

Actually, before I go I should mention ... there should be a hole in your axle flange that allows you to access the bolts with a socket. Turn the axle to line up the hole with the bolt you are working on.

 

Hey A,

Get your car to an open space and set it up on jack stands. It is not worth the effort to do one side and then have to do the same to the other when you have to back up and turn around.

The small space available for our axle removal and 3rd member exchange was done in a very small narrow driveway surface. On one side, I had plenty of room. The other side in a normal parking angle, was barely enough room to take the wheel off. So, I had to angle the whole 58 Impala so there was enough room to remove both sides in one jack up, stands, attach the removal tool and pull them out in one sitting.

The axle puller we used back then was not the simple attachment shown in the video link. That new device would have made the whole episode of pulling the axles out much easier. Forget the home made units, go to your local speed shop or auto parts store. They may have a rental unit available. Or call the local tool rental places.

The one I used attached in a similar fashion. But, there was an adjustment screw that had to be twisted to make the axle come out towards you. It was old style, but that was in 1958-64. Tools have changed and it certainly seems easier and quicker. Maybe not as quiet, but at least quicker. Turning the wrench to make the old axle come out was very quiet and sometimes in the late evening, it was well worth the effort not to disturb our parents or the neighbors with such banging. Quiet it was, with our own silent axle puller.

Some will tell you to keep the axles in the housing, but you will probably have to replace both axle bearings. So, take each axle out and make sure they are labeled for reinstallation in the same holes. As long as you are in there, pull out the 3rd member and check the gearing surfaces of the ring and pinion. It does not make sense to leave it alone. Just, remove the whole unit and check out the surfaces.

Jnaki

It will take a couple of hours, so don't be in a hurry or have somewhere to go during this time. Efficiency is better than making some errors if one works too fast due to a deadline. If you have never done this type of removal and exchange, then plan on more hours to do it right. No deadline is worth the mistakes you will make. So, take your time and do it right the first time.

As a teenager, I was willing to put up with anything to get a job done correctly. My older brother told me how to do it and then sat inside the house, so I could do the whole thing myself. He did not want to distract me from doing the job the correct way, without someone looking over, (actually under the car,) my shoulder.

I thought it was going to be a one time thing, but it ended up a weekly job. I was glad to have a job and did it well without any scrapes, cuts or mistakes. The 58 Impala was so much faster and quicker with the new 4:56 rear gearing in place. It was worth it, to be cold, tired and happy all at the same time.
YRMV

 

Al, before you take it apart any further:
Pull the wheel and brake drum. Now use a lever and fulcrum under the axle and try to pry the axle up, taking note of any movement. If it moves, bad bearing.
Also, double check that the brake shoe retainer springs (the ones that hold the shoe against the backing plate) are in place and not broken. Look for wear on the edge of the shoe and the corresponding area in the drum.
One thing at a time, slow and steady wins the race.
Good luck.

 

Okay. Put the drums back on. Put the wheels back on. Backed it out of the garage. No noise at all. When I put it into drive it started making noise. When ever I applied the brakes it made noise. Looking at the driveway it looks like one wheel was dragging. It is a front tire that made the deeper tracks. I now backed it into the garage. Jacked it up, and put the blocks under the A frames on both sides. As close to the tires without hitting them. Now how could it make such a bad noise when I have it jacked up in the back, but drive out of the garage with no noise, but apply the brakes and noise up the wahzoo..

 

I'd hold off on the rear bearing ...

Sounds like one of your front wheels is contacting something and is locked when you go backwards but breaks free and grinds when you go forward. I am back to thinking you need to remove each front wheel and look for signs of contact on the wheel itself and the control arms. You may have several issues here, only one of them being a rear bearing IF indeed you do have a rear bearing problem.

 

Still think it is that bad rear bearing. I still have 2 more cinder blocks and pieces of 2x6. If I pull out that axle. Will I need to replace anything for just pulling it out, and will all of the fluid come out??

 

Okay. I will pull the front tires off now, and let you know..

 

Al, I've been following this and it's my feeling that you really need someone there to help, two sets of eyes and ears are better than one. If I were closer I would be there in a heart beat,, there's got to be a HAMB'er in the Duluth area that could come to your aid I would think. Best of luck my friend, you'll get it fixed. Mitch

 

A

Al, you have front disc brakes? If so a caliper bolt may have backed out. You would see damage on inside of rim.

 

I agree with you regarding the rear axle bearing (based on what you've determined) but it sounds like there are other several other issues too ... why one front wheel is locking up is one issue that might be resolved quite easily.

 

you should be old enough to know ,cinder blocks are a death sentence .

 

I agree that you nee a second person. You need to methodically troubleshoot.

When did it start? What did you do prior to hearing the noise? When does it happen? You have too many variables.

 

Yes,,,,,do not use a concrete block to support that car,,,,accident waiting to happen !

Tommy

 

You would be amazed at how erratic and noisy a bad bearing can be, like I said... I've seen that movie.

 

I have always used those concrete blocks with the jack stands.
Took off the front tires. No rubbing on the rims any where. A little rust on the rotors, but it sanded of very easy, and hit it with the brake kleen.
I checked how the rotors were facing. I needed to move the rotor over some more, so I dropped the tie rod end and moved it over. Looks okay now. Still have a bad bearing on the axle in the rear. As far as when did I start hearing the noise?? When I pulled it out of the garage for the first time this year. Still I don't know why when I pulled it out of the garage there was no noise. I put it into Drive to spin it around, and no noise. Then put on the brakes, and NOISE!! I will try that tip of jacking up the back, and using a lever to see if the axle moves any up and down..

 

Please, do NOT use concrete blocks!!

 

Now your story has changed a bit. Now you say it didn't make any noise until you put on the brake. Rotors and drums rusty from sitting make all kinds of noise until you use the brakes several times.

 

I have 5 on 4 1/2.

 

Yes, but when I had it up in the air in the back with the drums off, and put it in Reverse. It grinded, and scraped..

 

Get a broomstick and put one end on the suspect area, the other in your ear and use it for a stethoscope to locate the origin of the noise.

 

"Moved rotor over" what are you saying here?