Technical Grinding noise when I pull the car out of the garage.

I think you solved your own Problem from what I have been
reading.!
Since you have instaled the Power Steering is when the Noise
has started & You Bleed the System but Not enough.!
Bleed it until all the Air Comes Out.!
Would you do your Brakes & Not bleed them all the Way.???

Just my 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

Any body close to Al in MN that could lend him a hand? Gary

 

Here's what I am thinking ... the power steering pump spins whenever the engine is running yet the grinding sound is only when you are moving. I don't believe it has to do with your power steering pump.

You say the last time you heard a noise similar was when you put in drop spindles and cut the springs. I believe the springs have since sagged (VERY common) and you may now be contacting the wheel with your control arm or ball joint. The reason you can't make the noise when you jack up the car and spin the wheel is because, if you are jacking from the frame (most likely), the wheel/suspension drop as the car is jacked up and clearances change as the suspension drops. I'd say you need to remove each front wheel and look VERY closely at the inside of the front wheels and the control arms/ball joints for signs of scuffing/contact. I had to slightly grind the flange of an upper ball joint on a Mustang II as it was hitting the wheel and that was without dropped spindles.

 

THIS!!!

 

Not to be critical Sir, you need to enlist some one with
old car, hot rod, or any car savy to give you a hand.
May be a local hot rod shop with known integrity.
Go to a cruise night and talk to some hot rod guys.
Seek out a car club if any do still exist in your area.
For example there is a fellow here in Louisiana
that operates an auto repair shop. He is an old
school hot rodder. A lot of old car guys bring him
their rods for help. He is quite good and has plenty
of work fixing problems such as you are having.
Sometimes a different perspective can help a lot.
Dont get discouraged, From what you say, it
sounds like the car needs a good general assessment.

 

Before I bled mine my steering pump made zero noise while the engine was running but the instant you started moving and put any pressure on the steering wheel it would make horrible noises.

 

If you aren't turning the steering wheel and are simply moving straight forward or straight backward (with the engine running) and the grinding is only heard when the car is moving, I can't see it having anything to do with your power rack. I believe the power rack will either make noise constantly when the engine is running and the pump is turning (if there is a problem) or will only make noise when you turn the steering wheel.

 

I agree with the above quote ... if the steering wheel isn't being turned and the car is just moving in a straight line, I can't see this noise as having anything to do with the power rack.

 

Mine didn't react like that at all. Like I said it made zero noise until the vehicle started moving. Then even slight pressure on the wheel would make it howl. Even if it's not the culprit he needs to bleed his power steering which he hasn't done.

 

This I don't understand.

Center the rack, align the front wheels, adjust for toe and you're good. Is the 'too long' tie rod preventing you from setting toe?

By 'center the rack' I mean, with the tie rods disconnected, turn the steering wheel to the left until it stops, turn the wheel to the right until it stops. Count the number of turns it took to go from 'lock to lock'. If it took four full turns (just a random number for example) to go from lock to lock, turn the wheel back two turns and your rack is centered. This must be done without being connected to the spindles or the 'stop' you feel may be a spindle stop and not the full reach of the rack.

I don't believe you have a stone stuck between a dust shield as it doesn't sound like this thing has really been driven in years (just an observation based on your comments) unless you have a gravel driveway or live on a gravel road (although you should check to make sure).

 

Wish you were closer- I'd offer to help!

Some of my best friends are here on the HAMB (whether we've physically met or not)- maybe start another thread with the title "Help needed in MN...".

I can just about guarantee someone will be contacting you about coming over to help out- that is one of the great strengths of the HAMB.

 

Ok. Jacked it up. Put it on blocks and jack stands. Started it up. Put it in gear with the door open. Sounds real bad Left rear. Is there any way of checking a wheel bearing with out pulling everything apart??

 

Also. How hard is it to change wheel bearings??

 

Start a the beginning before assuming it's the worse. Pull tire and go from there.

 

"then even the slightest pressure on the wheel would make it howl" ... I agree. So, roll straight back, don't touch the steering wheel, and the rack/pump shouldn't make a sound even if it needs bleeding. This is assuming the pump is silent when the engine is running. Touch the wheel "even slightly" and you get sound. I am suggesting he move straight in one direction or the other, while not touching the wheel even slightly. From the wording in your comment, it seems to suggest that even though your car was moving, it only made sound when the steering wheel was touched.

 

Make sure it isn't rust on the drum making the noise.

 

I have the back up off the ground. Tires are both off. I have checked inside the drums, and brake shoes. Put the drums back on. Started the car put it in reverse, and with the door open. a Huge scraping grinding noise coming from the back..

 

I sanded both drums, and pads. Then used brake kleen.

 

I am surprised to hear a Ford truck came with an 8 inch. Are you positive?

Regardless, the 9 inch and I believe the 8 inch both use bearings that are pressed on the axle (the old ones need to be pressed off or cut off without causing any damage to the axle itself). They are held in place by a retaining ring. Not something you can do at home unless you have a hydraulic press.

 

While its up on jacks running place your em brake on til it slows the wheel down to a crawl. then get out and isolate the noise, stick , stethascope or pipe or even feel.

 

No reason you can't spin the wheels/run the car with the left drum removed as long as you don't touch the brakes. After the test, just click the trans into neutral and turn off the car, wait until the wheel (or I should say 'axle') stops spinning. Need to be positive the drum isn't the problem before moving onto an axle bearing replacement so take the drum right out of the test.

 

make sure before tearing it apart.

 

When I bought the car in 93. They told me it was a 9". After a guy on one of the sites said to check the bolt pattern, and how a socket will work on a 9", but not the 8". I found out I had a 8". The guy told me the rear was from a Ford truck. So I am not sure what it is from. I do know it is a Ford. It is stamped on the drum, and I put in different rear gears. 8", and they fit.

 

If I just put it in Neutral, and turn the drums. There is no noise. Shouldn't there be at least a scraping sound??

 

Take the drums off (again!) and re-run it, and report what you find.

Chris

 

With it up in the air. I started it up. Put it in reverse. Took my foot of the brake, and the scraping, Grinding noise starts right away.

 

Did you remove the drum for this test?

 

DONT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL IF THE DRUM IS REMOVED.

 

Would somebody please go over to his house and lend him a hand?