Hot Rods I gotta have a quick change, please educate me.

I want to put a quick change under my 34 coupe project, but I really don't know that much about them, or what my options are.

What's the best?
What's the cheapest?
New?
Used?
Halibrand?
Winters?
Rodsville?

My project is roughly based on the Dick Deluna (Rolling Bones) coupe.

 

Mine isn't vintage looking but it is a Winters Champ posi QC. Helical gears, not a lot of noise. Not cheap though. Probably a lot less expensive ways to get what you are after.

 

There are NO CHEEPEST or LESS EXPENSIVE options out there. Jewelry is just flat out spendy weather it's for your Wife or your True Love. More big or just a fancy mouse trap never makes a relationship better forever. It's just a look at me thing and I get that part also. Old School square cut gears will drive you right out of the car.

 

Too start with,do NOT *do cowel steering< that's like showing your misinformed an just copying some one's mistakes.
.The engineering of cowel steering over 90% of the time is a dame mess an bump steer out the ass. For the drag strip only,that can be got a way with! Not on the street< depends what your doing,but why copy anything done bad.
Hopefully you were not even thinking of the cowel steering,an just used the pic.

Now as for QC,for a race car good thing,for the street,often nosey, APITA,plus can be high$,an many have a spool/locked axles,no spinders, Like your self,few know much anyway,so if the look is the only"WHY" you can fake it,or just get the lowest $ one you can,vs bigger $ for a old Franklen ect.. QC's can be found around $500 to 1000 used,on race car parts sites,mostly lower then on hot rod sites.
2 cents wroth,take it or not!

 

I can’t answer all of your questions but here’s mine. Winters V-8 style (new), posi, 31 spline axles, 3.48/4.11 helical gears. About $3400 all in.

 

They are not too hard to build and I have about 2500 in mine.








-Abone.

 

Your questions are mostly irrelevant. Cheap, best, used... all no.
Since it's apparent you don't have a lot of knowledge, so used is out. There is no cheap..! There really is no best. Winters is the more prolific of the sellers, also has the most options.
I have a Winters in my full bodied car.

Pick your width, brakes, gear ratio, (initially), and Quick Change style, lay out your money.

Mike

 

Don't be an idiot about cowl steering. Just because one "expert" says it does not work does not make it Gospel. And I like Pete.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/winters-steel-tube-and-bell-champ-quick-change.1086233/

Go to Gary and buy the whole thing. If you don't know what you are doing, it's best to buy the stuff all in one shot, meant to fit all together. He can set you up with different options, and get the brakes that fit as well.

 

I guess I'm just strange (you all know that), but for years I enjoyed the howl of the Cyclone that was under my roadster.

 

Yeah, having a quickchange that doesn't howl is like putting a blower on your engine and wanting it to be quiet. Why?

 

Get in touch with Gary - krylon32 - order a new Winters V8 steel belled QC. HRP

 

@krylon32

 

The original Halibrand 201 I put under my roadster is still doing well after 33 years of use.
I converted it to 69 Cougar 28 spline axles with the 69 outer bearing cups. SBC, TH400.
There are folks selling this setup now with all new bits.
Is it practical for a street car? Probably not, but it IS a hotrod.
If you're running a carbed flathead, the 201 or modern equal should be plenty strong, IMO.
Noisy? Pick your tolerance level, depending on spur gears. Straight cut or angled cut.
I never changed mine. 3.78 r&p with a 3A gear set.
I have a complete magnesium 201 with a solid repair that I might let go.

 

Being you used it"Don't be an idiot"*, sorry,I don't see any idiots!!,,Just some that need too learn things., You ,by your own statement,have shown a big gap in your understanding of engineering. Engineering is fact,of how things work.
Even if you wish to not understand them.
Pete's thread;
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cowl-steering-just-stop.1101046/
.
Cowel Steering can be done right, but very seldom* is!
If it's understood how it works ,from each pivots inter action with the rest of the car!!.< too build with min. bump built in to the movement!,But mostly it is not engineered at all, even close to right,often with bad bump built in,an copyed,being some one saw it an thinks they like it,not knowing.

 

Been buying and trading up QC's - if you call that a target end result. Got a later set up with disk brakes and wide fives that I hope to use and all the gears I'll ever need - that's how I got mine.

 

I have a Winters QC.

I bought as many used parts as I possibly could from that auction site, and from local racers.

For what I could not find, @GearheadsQCE acted as the intermediary to get me parts from Winters.

Yes, it is high;y-offset, and it rotates backwards internally. It has a reverse rotation ring and pinion, flipped to the other side of the housing.

 

I bought a used Winters "champ" rear. Got it for cheap but had to drive from Nebraska to Minnesota in a snow storm to get it. Sent the non-brake wide 5 hubs to Tman and used flanged axle shafts and Ford 9 inch housing ends and brakes in mine. I drive it on the interstates and to Joplin for the HAMB drags. I used a gear type posi at first but sometime last year the carrier bolts and ring gear bolts vibrated loose and destroyed the carrier and R&P. This time it went together with a Detroit locker and lots of red loc-tite. After it was all assembled and back under the car, I had the realization I really should have safety wired those bolts. So far-so good.
I use 3 different sets of spur gears...one for drag racing, one for hiway cruising and a 3.54 set for everyday driving.
Bandit Billy, Gimpy's hot rods and I use the more modern axle bells. To be really hardcore traditional, the steel bells should be used.
Mine whines most with the hiway gears in it but it's not all that loud. If I could go back, I'd do it again.
Most guys use a model A rear spring for clearance. [ATTACH=f

 

I too started buying up and sometimes hauling off for free all the QC parts I could find. Thanks for the hubs @Rocky !!! Since mine is going in an actual car, our lakester/RMR I could use a lot of the stuff guys would not use on the street. Swapping, bartering dealing up. You will get what you want in the end

 

So, to be a glutton I am going the DIY route for the street Tudor. Building my own outta a banjo and this

Sent from my SM-J337V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Really all depends on how much motor and torque you have. From my limited research, it seems the Speedway Engineering Supermax is about the strongest, but very pricey.

 

Hey Rich got any pix on the progress of the body?

 

I have a 4.12:1 gear in mine, and 1:1 spur gears. That is probably about right for the 31" tall tires, but time will tell.

It is easy enough to tune the ratio later on.

I decided to use the late-style bells, even though I had to trim one a little, as well as full-float Grand National hubs, as I will be pushing upwards of 700hp, and a similar amount of torque through this.

Thankfully both GN hubs that are 5-on-4-3/4", and 5/8"-NF to 1/2"-NF step down studs exist. Yup, regular Chevy car pattern wheels on GN hubs.

 

I found that chatting up the local racers opened up a treasure trove of things that they had just lying around. In some cases, they were happy to see it go to someone who would use it. All of my Magnesium is retired race car stuff, well inspected. My long-side axle came to me new-in-the-box, from a local racer, who had designs on building an offset chassis, but never got to it. I tried to pay him, but he was not having it. I looped back with a case of the beer that matched what was in his recycle bin.

 

Same here. lots of older QCs that the racers don't want anymore

 

I found a Frankland in an old dirt modified chassis in a local scrapyard. Paid $75.oo for it. Traded rear covers with Tman. After some advise from Bruce at gearheads Q.C., i took it to a local shop and they set it up with new street internals and tubes with bearing ends set up for 9" ford brakes.
I guess its all assembled and waiting on moser axles to be delivered....for the last five weeks. Am getting anxious to get my hands on it.

 

Sourcing steel, especially special alloys, is getting to be a real PITA. Prices have tripled, at-least. We have whole assembly lines shut down due to supply shortages.

Be patient. This is likely beyond their control.

 

Thanks for the trade!

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Point taken... The q.c. guys gave me a two week turn around, wich they met, 5weeks ago. Gave me the option to drive down and pick up the housing to put into the car, and come pick up the shafts later. I declined and decided to wait and get it all together. I haven't torn the car down yet so is all good i guess. Thanks for the chill-pill gimpy

 

S

Same here Trent!