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Technical 63 Falcon Sprint t5 trans- how to

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fisher400, Jan 27, 2020.

  1. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    No guarantee, but I'll see if I have one.
     
  2. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    I appreciate it!


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  3. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    A few updates: getting close to first start up. drive shaft is in, everything connected on the trans end. Going to modify a 5 speed 64.5 mustang handle. Have a short one that will work perfect. Going to do a round boot and ring. Engine is all but ready to fire but the distributor is giving me trouble. I put in a new bushing in the org distributor, ultrasonic cleaned all parts but my Napa replacement gear isn’t the right size for the shaft. I grabbed a nos gear off eBay DZ-365 / C4TZ-12390-A GEAR M257 and it is not the right size. Gear width is too large. Does anyone know the Ford part number for these gears? Or is there an aftermarket that actually fits? Napa was close but a few thousandths small ID. Old one has a small chip and visible wear. Picture of the distributor and gear is attached.
     

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  4. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,053

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Could you post a picture of the chipped original gear? Depending on location of the chip it might be okay to use.
     
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  5. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    The 260 - 289 distributor should have a gear with an inside hole diameter of 0.467" (the later EFI engines have a slightly larger shaft diameter, requiring a gear with a 0.531" hole).
    That gear might be for a 351. I had this info saved, it might help.

    PART NUMBER--MATERIAL--COLOR-----DIAMETER--------APPLICATION

    M-12390-A--Cast Iron---Orange-------1.249"--0.467"----289/302 hydraulic flat tappet engines with point-type or Duraspark distributors. (1)

    M-12390-B--Steel-------None---------1.249"--0.467"----302 with steel billet and production roller camshaft with point-type or Duraspark distributors. (1)

    M-12390-C--Bronze-----Bronze--------1.249"--0.467"----All 289/302 engines with point-type or Duraspark distributors. (1)

    M-12390-D--Cast Iron---Blue----------1.249"--0.531"----All 302 hydraulic flat tappet engines with EFI. All 351W engines. (1)

    M-12390-E--Bronze-----Blue Stripe----1.249"--0.531"----All 302 hydraulic (flat or roller) tappet engines with EFI. All 351W engines. (1)

    M-12390-F--Steel------Yellow---------1.249"--0.531"----All 302/351W hydraulic roller tappet engines with EFI and 351W Duraspark. (1)

    M-12390-G--Cast Iron--Green---------1.421"--0.531"----All 351C/351M/400/429/460 engines. (1)

    M-12390-H--Bronze-----Green Stripe--1.421"--0.531"----All 351C/351M/400/429/460 engines. (1)

    M-12390-J--Steel-------None---------1.421"--0.531"----All 351C/351M/400/429/460 engines. (1)

    M-12390-K--Polymer----None---------1.249"--0.467"----289/302 all camshafts with point or Duraspark distributors

    M-12390-L--Polymer----None---------1.249"--0.531"----302EFI/all 351W all camshafts

    Material Selection Notes:

    Cast iron gears are compatible with cast iron camshafts (hydraulic or solid flat tappet type).

    Steel gears are compatible with billet steel camshafts (hydraulic roller tappet type).

    Bronze gears can be used with either cast iron or billet steel camshafts. They are usually recommended by manufacturers of aftermarket billet steel solid roller tappet camshafts. Since the bronze is softer than cast iron or steel, it will wear at a faster rate.

    Polymer gears are compatible with all camshafts




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  6. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

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  7. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Thanks everyone! Original gear attached. You can see the two chips. One is very small and the other is more noticeable. Wear is hard to see in the pictures but it is visible. Not sure how all this matters but I have a brand new 260-289 Melling stock hydraulic lifter cam in the motor, so I figured the best thing to do is buy a new $20 gear...two gears later...I miss the swap meets where you can compare this stuff.

    Johnboy34- yea, i saw that one but one of the reviewers said it didn't fit his 65 289...gave me cold feet...I know, not rationale but getting tired of buying gears lol. That is why I figured a NOS motorcraft gear might be safe and truly fit the shaft. Pressing that gear puts some force on the collar pin and I want to avoid distorting it and getting my gap out of spec. Max is .035 and I am at .032 at the moment. Referencing your list M-12390-A--Cast Iron---Orange is the one I need...I think you are right. That summit one might be the ticket.
     

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  8. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    That nick doesn't look like it rides in the mesh area, you could file the edges and probably get away with it. I think the oil pump drag is what wears the gear, is the oil pump drive still tight?

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  9. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Ok, any issues with the wear along the teeth itself? Shown below. I am just wondering how that impacts timing? Regarding the oil pump, it is new and the shaft is new. Both inspected and installed by the engine shop.
     

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  10. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    That does look pretty wore, It might chatter and that can mess with the timing. Hard to think you can't get a gear, there are literally a million sbf's out there.

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  11. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,053

    Beanscoot
    Member

    The gear looks fine to me.
     
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  12. Wish I would have seen this earlier. I went through this a year or so ago, with my 63.5 Sprint that originally came with a 2 speed FordOMatic. In the end, I used a 91 Mustang W/C T-5, with a Chevy S10 Tailshaft housing from 94ish S10. I had Dan Conley at T56cablespeedometer.com machine the tailshaft housing to accept a cable type speedometer cable. Used the mounting bracket and cable type clutch assembly from Modern Driveline. Car has 3.70 gears in the 9" rearend. I cruise at 2k rpm on the freeway at 70+ mph. Good luck with your build.
     

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  13. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Danny, love the Sprint. Very cool. 2k cruising at 70+ is a dream lol. Did you do any other suspension upgrades? I don't think I drove my Sprint faster than 55 mph on an all original front end. Curious if I need to improve up there if I want to safely do 70mph. The s10 tail swap was the way I was going until I realized my 93 cobra trans has a reverse lock out ring that impedes the swap..last year of the t5's that work for our cars and first year of this reverse ring thing that makes the s10 swap not work lol At least my speedo gear issue was simplified. You finished off your carpet really nice in your car. I hope mine looks that nice! Out of curiosity, what engine do you have in your Sprint?
     
  14. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,141

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Danny could you provide more info on the machining of the S10 housing for the mechanical speedo. I am doing a t5 as a backup to my top loader 4 speed, which I am having issues with. The one I have is from a 1994 Camaro but it has a 94 S10 tail shaft with electric speedo mount. My roadster is mechanical speedo.
     
  15. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

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  16. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

    Fisher400 likes this.
  17. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

    Careful not to over tighten the drain plug on those aluminum trans!


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  18. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  19. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  20. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  21. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  22. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  23. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  24. Kett
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 10

    Kett
    Member
    from Reading,PA

  25. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    What are you doing? Trying to get your 10 posts in so you can message people??
     
  26. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 3,053

    Beanscoot
    Member

    Sexting.
     
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  27. Fisher400
    Joined: Jan 27, 2020
    Posts: 180

    Fisher400
    Member
    from East coast

    Some final updates here to nearly close this post/thread. T-5 is in and finished as well as most of the car. I have a few little things to do, but I am at the point of firing it up and driving it (finally). Pictures attached show the final shifter and boot. Shifter is out of an early mustang, boot is falcon and the base was made to cover the t-5 shifter and provide a flat mounting surface. Should be able to try it out in a few days. Thanks!
     

    Attached Files:

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  28. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Nicely done. I love the old school shifter.
     
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  29. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,588

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

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  30. Looks like you have it pretty much sorted out.
    Nice Falcon.
    Enjoy!
     
    Fisher400 likes this.

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