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Technical Most frustrating: weather strip replacement!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fabulous50's, Apr 22, 2021.

  1. Fabulous50's
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 513

    Fabulous50's
    Member
    from Maine

    I've worked on a lot of cars and trucks over the years. I've rebuilt engines, transmissions, diffs, body work, paint work, blah blah blah. I've never, ever found something as impossible as gluing on new weather stripping.

    How do you guys do it, I've got to be doing something wrong. It either wont stick, or comes off after I've already placed it.

    This is where I started, 3M glue was spread with a brush, and then i tried to place the dennis carpenter foam rubber. The stuff either dries up or i can't get the weatherstrip to dry up for use like contact cement. 16191169067222924826588568361898.jpg


    Should i try double face tape? I'm at my wits end!
    16191169727924447688408362692973.jpg
     
  2. I was going to do mine last year & I was in the Same boat as you
    so I called a friend of mine who has a Body Shop & he tried to help
    and said to bring the Car down to his Place & he would do it.

    Just my 3.5 cents

    Live Learn & Die a Fool
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,524

    alchemy
    Member

    Might be the glue you are using. Show us a pic.

    Been a few years since I've glued in weatherstripping, but way back we used to use a yellow gooey type we called Gorilla snot. It was probably a 3M product too. But you needed to be neat as the yellow would stand out like a sore thumb if you were sloppy.

    I've glued in window channels and fuzzies with 3M windshield urethane, but it is thicker and probably wouldn't let the weatherstrip lay down very flat.

    Whatever product you find, making sure the parts and weatherstrip are very clean is SOOO important. And the next most important thing is everything should be warm. If the tube says minimum temp is 50, then 70 should be your minimum. And maybe 90 wouldn't really hurt.
     
  4. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,331

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Whether strip adhesive is just like all the other adhesives in that all the good stuff has been taken out of it.
     

  5. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 2,079

    greybeard360
    Member

    You have to put adhesive on the weatherstrip and where you are going to place it. LET IT DRY !! Then apply another thin coat to either one and they will stick together like they should. Worst thing you can do is rush it.
     
  6. Sporty45
    Joined: Jun 1, 2015
    Posts: 1,185

    Sporty45
    Member

    I found this vid a while back. I haven't personally tried it, but it's done just like greybeard360 says :cool:

    [yt]
     
  7. partssaloon
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 680

    partssaloon
    Member

    The gorilla snot Alchemy is talking about comes in yellow or black. I use the black, apply to the weatherstrip and the door or whatever and spread both with a popsicle stick. Let it sit for 3-5 minutes approximately and then put it together. Sporty beat me to it. That is the video I learned from and then did my 64 Ranchero the way he showed and it worked great.
     
    38 Hump and squirrel like this.
  8. Dangerous Dan
    Joined: Jul 10, 2011
    Posts: 480

    Dangerous Dan
    Member

    I learned a little secret on my last build, 3m adhesive but before you start clean the WHITE SHIT of the weather stripping with a good solvent such as lacquer thinner as well as where you are applying the weather strip. And then do it in steps, like 2 feet at a time. Just saying.
     
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  9. Fabulous50's
    Joined: Nov 18, 2017
    Posts: 513

    Fabulous50's
    Member
    from Maine

    Yeah, it sucks....the freaken weatherstrip is a Gazillian feet long and convoluted. Applying it to the weatherstrip is the hardest part.

    I gave up, and worked on compounding and polishing the car....much more relaxing and satisfying.
    Got the green on this side done. 16191250978288902035007533766577.jpg
     
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,085

    squirrel
    Member

    You definitely need to follow the directions on the glue, exactly. Don't skip any steps.

    and like he said, do short sections, two feet is really about all that you can handle at once, when it's ready to stick on.

    I also use the black, it hides much better than the yellow.
     
  11. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 637

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1952-59 Ford Social Group

    Just did the doors on my '53 using Carpenter rubber. Job was messy as hell but it's stuck on really good. My method was based on the video above. I did the job in sections, maybe two feet at a time. First lay a bead on the door and spread with a popsicle stick. Then lay a bead on the rubber and spread with a popsicle stick. Wait about 5 minutes for the glue to start to set then start laying the rubber an inch or so at a time. Once your section is all stuck down keep going back over and pressing it down for about 10 minutes. Then move on to the next 2 foot or so section.
     
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  12. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    I use this. Just smooth it out a bit. It works. Use rubber gloves, it`s hard to get off your hands. Buy a very good caulking gun.
     
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  13. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,395

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I first usually test fit the weather stripping being careful not to stretch it. I use LocTite 5699 in the pressure tube. Careful application of it will hold the weather stripping without bleeding out past the edges. I hold the stripping in place with clothes pins until it sets up overnight. If you have a longer reach to hold the stripping in place get creative and use paint stir sticks as extensions for the clothes pins. They apply about the right amount of pressure and won't scratch the paint. The 5699 is 'tacky' and will hold a fair length of material in place for minimal use of clothes pins. Also it allows you to move the stripping to position it, with the contact adhesives, once you commit, it's there.
    Once set up, it will be held tighter than a bulls ass in fly season.
    That's the way I do it... you ask
    Good luck

    Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  14. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,467

    6sally6
    Member

    Like "they said" above AND....blue painter's tape helps to hold the over-head section in place.
    Love the smell!! Do it in an enclosed space to 'really-get-it-go'in'!!:confused::cool::cool::cool:
    6sally6
     
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  15. SlamIam
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 468

    SlamIam
    Member

    Just did my 51 F1, came out nice - used black 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, did 2-3 feet at a time, put wide but very thin stripe of adhesive on both metal and underside of weatherstrip, let it get tacky, then mated - its not tacky enough if it moves after you mate it - do not stretch weatherstrip - let dry 24hrs
     
    Fabulous50's likes this.
  16. Try brush on super glue. 4 to 6 inches at a time. Then if you want to go back and add the black 3m.
     
  17. bigdog
    Joined: Oct 30, 2002
    Posts: 761

    bigdog
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    3m black weatherstrip glue. Read and follow the damn directions. Never had a problem.
     

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