Projects Frenzel Supercharged Ford 1936 3 Window Coupe-Chopped Build

Yikes!
It looks like the wishbones come together and are bolted together with a common bolt through a solid lug?
That is not good at all. No give, no allowance for twist, no bearing surface...
It needs at least a johnny joint or something to articulate at the front. (As the original torque tube did)

 

+1 on the above, have a look how the original wishbones are built and you'll see what the fellas mean. It needs to articulate at that point, not just pivot like the current design as one side will rise more than the other.

 

A little more progress... got the generator mount knocked out, installed coil and fuel block, and bent the radiator supports to go around the carbs... should have it purrrin in a couple of day... next is a belt tensioner, fuel and oil filter lines, gas pedal, and wire it-fire it!

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That is an awesome build

 

Couple more pics... fuel and oil filter lines done. Removed the straight radiator hose ends to curve down... should be running next week! Cant wait!

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It's a given that this will fail within a short period of time.

 

I feel as though any movement of the rear suspension will apply a rotational force on the ends of the radius rods. I know that the movement is quiet small at that end, but it is still a twisting motion, and may lead to metal fatigue over time. Allowing the mounting point to flex will minimize this. A four bar bush type of mount or a heim joint-type of mount may do the trick.

 

Spectacular attention to detail.

 

I think the easiest fix for his rear wishbone problem would be to cut the tab off, put a doubler plate on that bottom plate, then drill a hole straight down to bolt in a Johnny Joint. It would allow the needed rotational movement with no binding at all.

 

Wow what a build. No idea how I’ve missed it this long! Thanks for the tip Ryan!

 

Wow! what a neat car!

 

Wow! Beautiful.
Don't you want even a short length of rubber hose in the fuel lines to absorb vibration? I would think the lines or the connections would fatigue over time and if not completely fail, then leak. Leaking fuel on a hot engine es no bueno.

 

I will look further into it but it isnt any different then the open driveline kit they sell online?
https://www.hotrodworks.com/product...EN7OcWdNHLA1meVQlOTy5h_oOR9Gi-iQhkc3PQSACD-SU

 

That kit has nothing to do with how the front of the arms are mounted to the frame. That kit is only triangulating the top of the center section to the other two arms.

You need something like this: https://www.hotrodworks.com/product/1935-1940-ford-radius-rod-mount-kit/

Do a test. Stick a jack under one of the rear wheels and jack it up. Poke your head under there and see if you can spot anything twisting at that front mount. If the wheel doesn't easily raise, you know something is binding. The other wheel should remain firmly on the ground.

 

Great build-thank you for sharing your progress!

 

This set up works and is proven. Notice the heims on the front with high travel spacers close at the front pivoting near the U joint centerline.

 

Thank you guys. I will work on it when I get the car back next week.

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Isn't that to split the front?

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It amazes me, people you are replacing a Heavy duty torque tube ( engineered by FORD ) with a single small diameter shaft of steel. The torque tube was there to prevent the axle from twisting forward and backwards. Wishbones on the bottom can bent easily ( I have seen this) by adding a similar wishbone to the top connected to the same or close point you will prevent the twisting. That's why they made ladder bars for open drive-line hot rods.

 

Thought the same thing when I saw Ryan's lead photo of the finished engine. That engine is going to rev, vibrate independently of the firewall/body and eventually shear that soft copper line and lead to instant fire. Shame to have to break up that copper work. Possibly you can have a shop that makes automotive A/C lines, etc. make up something similar to a flex brake line with fitted/treaded ends so you don't ruin the looks with a cheap ass length of rubber line w/ hose clamps?

Fantastic build! Love it and can't wait to see it finished!

 

No. That is to mount the rear radius rods. The first part you showed was a torque arm. The torque arm you built is good. However, the radius rods need to pivot and swivel to follow the articulation of the rear axle. Originally, the radius rods were solidly mounted to the torque tube housing, but the torque tube housing was able to pivot and swivel in the back of the transmission. You need to build a mount that allows the radius rods to pivot and swivel. Something like our “Radius Rod mount kit” shown in the prior post.


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Just amazing car. Congrats to you. Lars

 

Great chop!

 

Let's make sure that it isn't copper clad hydraulic line or heavy wall ACR tubing . It has extended ferrules and AN fittings. The coiled line will allow for flex. I agree, the comment is made looking out for the safety of the owner and the wellbeing of his investment in time and money. The fit-up is beautiful!!!

 

Boost gauge line is done.... really liking the look of it....

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I know the car is finished now & there is another post, but this is a very kool hot rod, shame I won't see it in person!